Dday

From the one photo, it looks like it. However, angles can be deceiving. It's best to post more photos closer up, from different angles. You will know the type of glue by seeing if you can slowly pry off the sniper plate. IF it's E6000, it will give way eventually.

It depends on the glue that was used. If you used E-6000 glue, it will come apart with constant easy pressure. If it was connected using other types of glue, like zap-a-gap or something similar you will need to very very carefully cut it off. You may have to but a replacement sniper if it's attached with a permanent bonding type glue. The same goes for the forearms and any other parts you have.. it all depends on the glue you used.

I will definitely be adding some more stuff to this, and those suggestions as well as the ones previous from others are great! This, like my on-going list will be a post that seems some updating as time goes on. Unfortunately I will be going on vacation today in a few hours... to SWEDEN, yey. I'll look into new parts to add to it when I Get back.

I haven't been able to edit my accessories post in days. My latency seems to be very low with the board and working fast. It 100% has to do with the contents/size of the stuff I am posting, in my case. I tried to paste the contents of the combined on-going accessories listing here..... it stalls out and will not do it. It acts like it is, but never actually works. Someone PM me an email please, the listing is gone on the forums and I need someone who can edit it to paste in the contents into my post and tutorial so that it's not empty like it is now. Thanks

Finished the helmet now.. well I still need to paint the screws white, but I consider it finished

Cod!

Those are the same ones I have as well. I need to pup it in and see what the title screen says if it's Star Wars or A New Hope. You can still find these on Amazon and Ebay rarely, you just have to look for the right photo of the cover.

Clones are similar, but not anywhere near a TK. I'm sure the new Troopers will have the same degree of separation as Clones to Storms. This much discussion, and we have ONLY seen a couple photos from the helmet... I fully reserve opinion until I see the whole getup.

What was even more confusing... the seller put it under the completely wrong category... Comics... superhero... batman.... wrong .... wrong .... ...wrong Trading cards... scifi .... starwars right...... ..... right...... right

Vaders appearance changed a lot between each of the 4 movies, almost every single piece was modified. Granted the TK's changed slightly more, but from the normal non critical person, vader and TK's look the same from movie to movie.

I've never been able to edit the topic title, but it's the body I"m worried about now.

Well, it's what they call the Original Theatrical, which is probably not truly the original theatrical. It is the version before they started adding and changing large swaths of the movie is all. So if the BluRay is TRULY the original... then I would buy it, for sure.

I know that RT-Mod Rob did a helmet with the back traps vented, you couldn't tell it had been done. Stick a super thin blower fan on the inside with a black mesh cover and it's invisible but the airflow will work great I"m sure.

Problem remains the same after flipping the switch

I'd buy that... wait, no I wouldn't Why would I want a blu-ray version of a unalterered film, having it blu-ray means nothing if it's unaltered. I've got the DVD's of the original theatrical, and the VHS, if I ever find a VHS player. However, a bluray, unaltered would be good for people who don't know what a DVD is

Oh, I also tried it in safari, and in privacy and incognito mode, same problem. When I try to make a new post with the contents... But only when I try to recreate the post.... other normal posts are ok.. it feels like it has to do with the length of the post.

I did some experimenting... when I took about 80% of the post out, and submitted the edit, it works.... but does not work with the full post... the problem is now the post had been gutted and I can't get it back. I've made a lot of changes as well that I have saved so it's not lost though.

I'm using Chrome on a Mac with the current update. Just editing to show, it's not all threads.. for me so far, it's just those 2 specific threads.

Ermer, Thats why I've linked the ongoing accessories list at the bottom, so people can do the finding themselves. Well, semi-themselves. Having a lot of information available is great, but having it to easily available isn't. Then you don't get the sense of accomplishment for finding it on your own.

Priceless

Eric, I'm having the exact same problem. It is the main post on http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/20869-combined-on-going-accessories-listing/ as well as the associated tutorial at http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/tutorials/article/6-ddays-combined-on-going-accessories-listing/

A few new updates... All the rounded pieces fully sized to the new owner and closed up. Did some trimming on the chest and butt.... does that say anything about me? Also, helmet is nearly done, just the stripes to paint on. Bad lighting it's taken at almost midnight.... better ones when it's done.

Yes, the supplies part can go a lot higher, but that gets into the realm of things you don't necessarily NEED, which is where I'm trying to focus. a Dremel, not really required, it makes things easier, but you can get away without it. THanks all for the fast responses! I hope this will become a good resource for people to get a good idea what they are getting into and realistically decide if it's something they can sustain.

So, a lot of people jump in with both feet not really knowing the cost ramifications of going 100% complete on their TK. We look around at armor makers and get their pricing and think, "wow thats a lot, but ok." Then they realize there are accessories to add to the suit, and tools to build the suit and strapping, snaps, bolts and so on. So my goal here is to help people by laying out a general cost reference for the stuff they will ned to buy. This way you can make an educated decision about your finances how you will make a TK work so it does not break the bank and have you selling it a few months later. This will be a range type pricing. There are parts that are more expensive and some that are lower cost. At the very end, to help you with the accessories and armor, I have put links to the ongoing accessories listing and well as the approved armor vendors listing. These posts help compile ways to contact the sellers who have the required parts. One little tip as well, just because something is a different cost then another doesn't make it worse/better than the next item available. When you read through the sale thread for the individual items, you can also read the reviews to get a feel for the quality of an item. People with a bad history or a bad product aren't allowed to sell here. So do the research and make an educated decision. The FISD does not dictate pricing to sellers, so you are the only one who can decide what price is right for the item you want, thats why there are multiple sellers for most items. To start, the most important bit: The armor (with helmet) - The pricing ranges widely depending on accuracy, type of scupt (fan vs screencopy) and quality. Some of the lower end pricing does not include a helmet! Keep this in mind when you do the research on armor makers and make sure that you get a helmet with the suit as well. Price range: $550-$1500 Any set of armor that you can find here on the FISD through the approved sellers will look great if you build it right. The suits on the higher end of the spectrum are like luxury cars. Do you need them? Not really, but it's so nice to have them and the attention to the finer details really sets them apart. The Rest - This is the part that people sometimes forget about. These are pieces like the boots, the cloth belt, holster and so many other little things that help you to complete the suit. These parts I am detailing aren't optional (with the exception of the blaster) so in order to get approval from the Legion and join us, you will need every single item I am detailing. Many of these prices do not take into account shipping fees, since I can't detail them all and they vary wildly between sellers location and your location. Most are very fair here on shipping costs though. I will detail the expected pricing for these parts and then will recap everything at the end. Boots - There are several options for these. There are sellers who have white leather bots that are made especially for stormtroopers. These are the accurate style and the leather is dyed white so you never have to worry about chips to the paint. The other option is to go with black Jodphur boots, get some white leather paint, prep and paint the boots. This is how they did it in the films and is likely to be cheaper then the white leather route, but involves more work, up front and in the end. So you have to decide on if you're willing to trade ease of use for film replica style. Price range: $60-$100 Neck Seal - This part is generally custom made to order from a few different sellers to fit your neck size. Zippers, velcro and other closure types are available. Price range: $35-$80 Rubber Gloves/Hand Guards - This is one of those parts that isn't 100% required. The gloves yes! However they do not need to be rubber for basic approval, they can be black form fitting gloves, just check on the CRL for the specific requirements depending on the level of certification you are aiming for. Most armor vendors will include a set of ABS plastic hand guards with the armor, so unless you're going for a higher level of accuracy certification with the FISD, the ones with the armor will do. On the other hand, if you want to get centurion LV3 certification, you will need to get rubber gloves and latex/silicone handguards. Price range: $25-$50 depending on options Undersuit - Easily overlooked, this is one of the most important parts of the whole setup! You will want a plain black suit either 2 or 1 piece construction and it should be form fitting with no excess fabric hanging around. The best is any type of compression wear made for under sports clothes/suits to keep the wearer cooler/warmer based on the weather and construction. The best place to find these are at any general department store like WallMart (US) or a sporting goods store. If you decide on a 1piece suit, make sure there is a zipper to go pee. It's hard enough to get out of a 1 piece without having to worry about bathroom pressure. Price range: $30-$120 for the top and bottom. Holster - Most times these are made from leather, but can also be imitation leather. Price range: $30-$70 Cloth Belt - This is the belt that the ABS ammo belt attaches to and goes around your waist to connect at your back and you hang your TD on. Price range: $30-$70. E-11 Blaster (Optional) - The blaster is optional for Legion acceptance. Not all countries allow for even toy weapons so the legion does not require them. The price ranges widely here because you can get these as kits or fully built. Most kits are pretty easy to put together and paint yourself if you have the time. Price range $80-$800 Tools - Now this is a hard to peg hole. You will need curved scissors for cutting plastic, a drill/hole puncher, a rivet tool, tools for setting snaps. Price range: $20-$100 Strapping supplies - You can go with screen accurate brackets, or you can use straps and snaps to put your armor together and hold it in place. You will need some skinny black elastic, skinny white elastic, wide black elastic, wide white elastic. For details on how skinny/wide and so on check out the replica section. You will need snaps as well. Price range: $20-$100 Recap! Here is the pricing once again, in one place with no descriptions: Armor: $550 - $1500 Boots: $60 - $100 Neck Seal: $25 - $80 Gloves/handguards: $25 - $50 Undersuit: $30 - $120 Holster: $30 - $70 Cloth Belt: $30 - $70 Blaster: $80 - $800 Tools: $20 - $100 Strapping: $20 - $100 In total: $870 - $2990 For my knowledge, most people will be right in the middle, around the $1200-$1500 range for a fully complete wearable Stormtrooper costume. Now here are a couple of this that aren't included in this list... Time required to build. Time is money. Time building it time away from your friends, family, dog, work and so on. Unless you find a way to include them! But it's not like you're working, it's a hobby and you're having.. at least you should be! You can bank about 40-50 hours of build time for your first build. This does not include time spent researching on the computer, waiting for glue to dry and so on. This is purely time sitting on front of a armor piece working. There are people who offer a build service for a price. Average cost.. ??? Not cheap. Lets break down these costs a little. An experienced builder will take 20-30 hours to build your kit, and make sure it fits to your body as best as possible. This is a specialized skill, in a niche market which means there aren't so many people doing it. If they were being paid by the hour... say $20 a hour, which should be a good rate for a specialized job. $20 per hour for 20 hours is $400 bucks. However, a builder who gets a kit done with a high level of quality and workmanship in this time frame will ask for a bit more, more like $30. Now these are just estimated. If you have questions about a builder for your armor, post on the forums, or do some research you'll find people who do builds for you and they can answer your question directly. Links: Combined on-going accessories listing Various types of armors and where to find them Good luck with your build and have fun!

Painting the interior black i've seen done, but I think it is one of those things that extra and not needed. I think the painting of the interior black is extra and not needed. I've seen it done and it works, but in my opinion it's just extra work. Your eyes should be pretty close to the eye lenses already and there isn't much reflection into your eyes because of this. Plus, this wasn't done on the screen armors and why have a RS props armor and not make it 100% screen accurate?