Dday

The recent RS PVC suits are thick, and heavy. Stay away from this, for the love of Pete. Get the ABS version if you are set on a RS suit. Otherwise, look for a ABS suit from Troopermaster. He is in the UK and sells an amazing set of armor.

Michael, can we get some detailed shots of the helmet? I haven't seen one fully finished yet. Thanks!

I sell a very accurate pipe kit, complete, just put it together. To your point though, everyone is interested in seeing new things. So if you have some photos, post them up for us to see.

The pipe kit is as accurate as you can get unless you have a sterling... and the sterling is actually just a pipe with hardware.... basically a pipe, just not a kit

I think there are some general guidelines and materials out there, however they use a special blend, if I remember right. Secret sauce.

Congrats Joey!

I'm on an anti PVC crusade now. I'm really not impressed with the PVC.

Paul, I completely agree with you, this new suit material isn't very nice at all. The first PVC suit I saw a few years ago was like 1 or 1.5mm and seemed the same flexibility as the 1.5mm suits from you I have worked with. This new one.. meh, I'm not impressed at all.

I'm against PVC after seeing a current PVC suit from RS... wayyyy to thick, not very flexible and super heavy.

I think they must have. This suit is from earlier this year I believe it every single piece is at least 2mm thick. Based on how I see this current suit, I would not recommend PVC to anyone. You might as well go 2mm Acryllic capped ABS, it's lighter and just a shiney, but it is more flexible. this PVC is... meh.

Hi Jake, this is the right thread to go with. The only armor makes that makes a hero helmet from the start is Troopermaster. The armor itself is the same between stunt and hero, there are just a couple small things you change in the build. Mostly it's all in the helmet.

Hey, bringing this up again.... the PVC armor, is anyone elses REALLY thick? I picked up a partly build set of RS PVC and it's thick, like 2mm and heavy. I would be scared to put the wire brackets on it because it's so thick and inflexible. I saw a PVC suit a few years back and it was pretty thin, comparable with a 1.5mm suit, so I was very surprised when I got this one with the thickness and solidness of the armor pieces. Can anyone else confirm?

The best material is ABS You take the scraps of ABS from trimming and melt it down with some acetone. This will melt the ABS into paste and let you fill any gaps.

I never had any problems with melting the ABS in the eyes. Thats not to say it's not possible though...

E6000 or hotglue will attach the lenses to the ABS. One thing you want to make sure to do is that you do not seal the lens all the way. Just glue a few points to hold it steady and the rest of the gaps leave open. Otherwise you'll have trouble with airflow and it will cause fogging much easier.

I do not personally own an ATA set, but I think that it will be too small around your waist and will not close fully without shims on the side. That being said, it's not the end of the world, it isn't hard to add shims to the side and to make it look good with some trimming and working. It's great that you are working on getting the weight down! Just keep it up and once you get your armor you will be able to fit into it no problem. The thing about ATA is the kits have a long waitlist, and if you've already been there for a while, don't give up the spot. If anything, you can just wait it out and resell the kit (for a few extra $$$ to cover the waiting time) once you get it to someone who doesn't want to wait the 8 months (or whatever the time is).

Unfortunately the next run of AM (for my buddy) is delayed, so it won't be done before Halloween... oh well.

oops... just noticed you already did!

Ohhh, awesome! Make sure you request your permissions/status be updated here. Well done, congrats.

I completely agree. There is something about being able to say "I made this" that feels so good.

If your thighs are up high enough, as you move, the shins will naturally settle down a low as they can go. Most times it will be able to clear the knee and not get trapped. If you look at some of the screen caps in the film, you can see the sniper regularly will look like it's caught under the thigh. If yours is regularly getting caught as you walk, look at the places where it is getting caught and see if you can trim the edges down a little so they will not bind up. In the bottom of the thigh, where the 2 halves come together and are not connected, you can put a piece of ABS behind there and glue it in to help reinforce it, so it doesn't get broken from a catching sniper. The only problem with regluing the sniper is you want to be careful you don't tip it out of the way too much, as it will change the look of how it sits on the shin.

Any form of hole filling putty will work, the stuff used to fill wood, or drywall and so on. I guarantee if you go to your local builders store you will find hole filling quick dry stuff for a few $$$.

I don't think the problem is which detachment it should go to. My guess is it will fall within the FISD, since it is a stormtrooper, just a legacy one.

I read and got confirmed the same thing from a few weeks ago. The biggest problem is the backplate changes each time it is seen. There is 1 super clear shot of the backplate in the comic, but other then that, there is only the statue for a clear shot. So the question is do you pick one vs the other. I keep hoping I will see something on the legion forums, like a public vote or something.

If you want the bolt to slide you will have to use a bolt and nut to attach the handle into the tube, then on the underside of the guns bolt, you will carve out a channel so that it will not get hung up on the nuts that are holding the grip on.