Darth Voorhees

thanks guys

The other greeblie... Completed greeblies

I marked and cut the "C" shape I also cut a groove into the back for that detail: More fine tuning.. "teeth" of the "C" area: Then cut down to size:

So here is the rail....the round "button" was cast from a pill, the rear sight is one of my test castings from last time that i modded for this. <a href="http://smg.photobucket.com/user/nycpunker/media/100_6933_zps897c35da.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v392/nycpunker/100_6933_zps897c35da.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 100_6933_zps897c35da.jpg"/></a> The block greeblies were made by taking a chunk of bondo while it wasnt fully hardened and carving it with a boix cutter and hobby knife. They were then fine tuned with sandpaper and the dremel tool. I then made molds of them. Then took those castings and further modded them and made new molds. I was then happy with them and glued them onto the rail. The rail is now in rubber This is how i made the greeblies for the side: the "catch" Basically i started with a drawing on a sheet of ABS. I layered it and cut/trimmed to shape.

Thanks Mark...check out my interest thread in the ongoing projects section. I should have some ready to go this week

So..i realized i was starting to run low on rubber so i cast the esb rail with the greeblies and rear part intact to avoid making 2 molds. So, it wont have the recessed screw holes cast in this time around.

I thought id post this up, to show you all how i created the parts for the ESB Promo blaster. Most of them are fairly simple, and i didnt think to take pics of the full process. The "swoop" is just a piece of ABS cut to the correct size/shape and sanded smooth on the edges. The 3 round buttons are actually cast from an allergy pill lol. The rail is an aluminum rail i made myself with clay under it to fill it in: This will be cast and the rear section added, mounting screw holes added, and markings for where to place the scope..and cast again. The blocks that go on the rail i made with blocks of bondo, partially hardened to get the basic shapes and then just sanded smooth. Pics soon of those! I plan to make the "clips" with layered ABS sheet. Pics to follow!

Yea that's what seemed to happen...is the cleaning up process you end up removing the texture, and then it looks silly being smooth in one spot and textured in another, so i went with smoothing everything out. Started with the stock mold tonight. Set up the box but am too tired to mix the rubber..so i'll do that tomorrow. After that its just the grip and front sight...then all molds will be done.

Thanks bud! The old one was just too flimsy and the idea of keeping the original texture on the castings didn't work out the way I hoped. Most also sanded it off, so I decided to make this new kit as clean as I can. Wait till youse the end cap! Lol....I was so excited about how it looks all smoothed out

Yep Robert if you want one shoot me a PM! Tino this build is AWESOME!! Totally Loving it! Would love to see what you could do with a DVH kit

Legos would be awesome haha! I use cheap foam core board and hot glue. ...and yes, Pete is correct, almost all parts are second gen. I first cast the parts off the original, and then mod those to work with the PVC pipe, and mold again. Some I do 3 times to get them just right. Was actually thinking of molding the counter in 2 pieces to help keep air pockets to a minimum. Gonna wait till I'm done with all the parts for the ANH and ESB and then if I have any rubber left, I may try it out.

Sure thing Pete! Ok so here is the Modded centerbolt... I did the stock by taking a casting off the real part and then cutting it up, filling the void with bondo, and hollowing out that front piece. I didnt want to try and take apart the actual folding stock..im pretty sure i would have broken it, and i may want to use it on a personal build SO, here it is: The center bolt is in rubber now. Still Contemplating the best way to mold the stock parts for the least amount of clean up and air bubbles. The stock gave me ALOT of issues last time.

probably $95 for ESB I got half the molds done today. I also drilled out a casting of the center bolt so its now hollow...will make another mold of it next. I also made the stock in 2 pieces...but not like...cut in half....2 pieces like the front part, and then the bar/fork. its pretty awesome. The triangular holes in the sides are cut out so it gives it a more realistic appearance. Had an oopsie and some parts froze into the molds...but not to worry i got them out and am preparing to re do the rest molds tonight before i go to bed. Lord willing, i'll have them all done tonight

I'm hoping for $75 for the ANH...plus shipping.

Yep... im working on better cylinders now. The t-tracks likely wont be included at all. Marv has a good source and those are really the best option. This kit will hopefully go together easier than the last. trying to keep a bunch of the detail unique to the DVH kits intact, but the texture will be removed and they will be closer to doopy kits in terms of the finish. I also figured out better ways to make the molds to eliminate the pour spouts for the most part so there will be ALOT less sanding/grinding etc. They will still include a scope and counter. (same ones as before supplied by Vern) Im also going to pre drill holes for screws to attach the parts to the pipe. I will include all screws needed for a super sturdy C/A glue and screw assembly. I also found short length allen head screws to include for the nozzle, that will be included...no more resin cast allen head bolts...REAL ones will be included. The ESB kits will include the modded nozzle, ESB scope, ESB greeblies and ESB solid scope rail.

Good point...I'll look into doing a ROTJ one as well

Yes, thats right folks, i have decided to start making these again. However this time they will hopefully be better...less of a pain to assemble and such. I also plan to drop the price a bit. Im making some of the parts from the good test pulls i did, and the rest from newly purchased individual parts. They will still be cast in black onyx urethane resin. So some of the changes will be: Kit will be cleaned up and smoothed out, rather than have the texture from the original paint/damage on the base sterling. there will be no (or very few and small) pour spouts to remove the grip/handle will be one piece...for now...i will offer the 2 piece handle/grip later as an upgrade. the center bolt will be hollow to allow wiring The folding stick will be slightly thickened and the barrel mount for it will be a separate piece. It will include a resin scope rail (aluminum upgrades will eventually be offered) There will be a full ESB promo version available. Im looking at starting them this summer...so keep an eye out for them!

haha just LMK, i have ALOT lol

if you need a new ear LMK..i have a ton of ATA ears from when i build ATA helmets for folks and dont mess up the ears

I usually notch the ears as well..it helps them sit more flush. Also check out this thread...its for a NE helmet, but the process is the same for the ears: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26301-ne-helmet-build/

I have a zipper one. Its easy to put on and has never given me a problem. I got mine from oiftanker back in 2009 or 2010...still using it to this day, not 1 issue, love it!

My first accurate style armor was an AP back in 2008. I was 200lbs at the time and made it work quite well. I am also 5'8" But i thought it worked out very well. I think Buffstormtrooper could make AP work if he wanted. That said, i think RT-mod would likely fit him better. Possibly RS as well...and by better i mean less shimming. I never actually saw a TM in person, so i cant comment on his size wise. I would have to agree that certain parts on the TM are more accurate than AP simply due to the fact that AP has mirrored parts (forearms for example). TM has gone through many many versions, and his sculpts have only gotten more accurate over time. If you have seen the update posts to his armor....you would see his meticulous nature of finding the slightest nuances and you'd know it is possible to get nearly identical to the screen used suit over time upgrading molds. Id say his suits are closest to RS. Again, i think AP is great armor, one of the best.

I just put it on without any glues/adhesives. It holds very well, depending which one you have. The NE one is VERY thick and hard to get on, but once its on, its very secure. The ATA and Trooperbay ones are not as heavyweight, but they also stay on well without any glues/adhesives. I had an AP helmet kit in 2008 and the rubber trim didnt always stay on so i think i had dabbed a bit of superglue to hold it. Dont know if they use the same trim anymore though. Haven't had much experience with any others.

Thanks! Yep! I also probably could have made the ears even thinner but since it wasn't my personal helmet, i didnt wanna risk it.

For the helmet, check out this thread i posted yesterday, that should answer most of your helmet questions http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26301-ne-helmet-build/