MartinSivertsen

Same here.

Holy christ, that's insane!

Looks good, Rolf. We're about at the same place in our builds you and I, except that I'm on a two week long long vacation and had to leave my blasterbuild at home Nice attention to detail also, hollowing out the front sight and folding stock. I have a great idea for an accurate looking rear/inner bolt, but I have to find the right dimension pipe (22mm PVC) somewhere. I'll be hard at work with that when I get home.

Thanks for the info! I have a buddy of mine about the same size as you who's looking into getting armor in a few months, and this thread will be great for reference

You look like a very big man, Kevin, would it be inappropriate to ask your height and weight, just to better understand the scale/proportions of things?

I might be following this thread seeing as I'm at the point in a doopydoos full resin build, that I only have to add the internals (barrel, rear/inner bolt and spring) and the scope rail. The new full resin doopydoos kit is really accurate out of the box, and only needs a few tweaks to look really legit, hollowing out the front sight and some other small modifications which I will hopefully cover in my build-thread/tutorial. And thinking about sturdiness, I think the kit, assembled with care and E6000 will be really solid.

Congratulations!

I think I had a great idea on the bus here on my way to the airport. If i get an inner/rear bolt PVC bit about 2in long put it inside where it's supposed to be, and then(!) Glue on a 6mm (or so) thick slim piece on top of the rear bolt, inside the cocking channel. It might look as if the rear bolt is actually a lot thicker than it is. I'll try that when I get home.

One thing about the rear bolt: The outer diameter of the pipe is 37,5mm (~1,5in), but the inner diameter is just 22mm (0.86in), due to the thickness of the pipe being roughly 8mm (0.3in), so the inner barrel has to be significantly smaller in diameter than the rest of the pipe, and that would look "off" if it's going to simulate an extention of the ejection port. If you understand what I mean: The white resin itself is 6mm and the black PVC inner tube adds another 2mm. Had it been a metal tube, I think the thickness would be 2mm at most and that would look a lot more natural if I were to include a rear bolt, instead of having it suddenly being deep inside the pipe as the case is going to be here..

I was thinking about getting a 3mm steel flat iron and following the great (but three years old) tutorial by Billhag here. Other than that, I'm leaving for vacation in 36 hours and will be gone for two weeks, so I don't think I'll get much more done before that time...

I believe this is the rear bolt, it's really a part of the ejector port piece extending so far back that you see it through the cocking channel, along with the rear spring. Correct me if I'm wrong.

I went for the E6000 and I've gotten to the point in my build where I have to source new parts for a scope rail, hengstler bracket, inner barrel, rear bolt and inner spring. Hopefully that will work out without to many bumps in the road...

Great! I'm at that point in my build now, and I will try to follow your three year old tutorial, Billy

Thank you, Mathias

No problem, part of why I'm documenting this build in such detail is that a buddy of mine wants to start a build of his own soon, and to share it with y'all here as well is a pleasure. I'm just waiting for vern to show up and talk about inner barrel and spring; don't worry, I'll get to that. Might need some input on the fixing of the scope rail. I'm thinking about filing a small notch in the hole where the top t-track is secured (I should say "secured" as it's moulded together with the pipe..) and glueing it in there. I see a few just bend the rail and screw it down at both ends, as opposed to just screwing it down at the back.

Then come the project of removing the inaccurate bolts at the very front replacing them with real ones. First I put an indentation in the centre for the drillbit to keep centered.: Hollowed it out some more: Filed, drilled and scored with an exacto until I was satisfied. The black PVC pipe inside gave a great deal of resistance, so I fiddle a while with that: Then came dinner home at my parents in-law and I asked the father there if he had some 10mm allen screws laying around, and wouldn't you believe it, he even cut off the bolt and filed them flat for me. Freebies! Time to glue on the front of the folding stock: Tried rubberbands, but found it had a hard time keeping the stock centered, so I opted for an F-vice, also glued on the mag holder at the same time. Now might also be a good time to mention the blue towel I used for laying the blaster nicely to rest while the glued parts cured: These are the parts I am left with at this time: I wanted to hollow out the end of the rear lock a bit more: We come to a problem: The end cap is supposed to have three square bits fitting tightly into the grooves of the rear end, but the square bits on my endcap are practically non-existant: I cut out three small square pieces from a spare piece of 1,5mm plastic I had, made sure they fit into the grooves on the back and glued them in place in the end cap. Realized the day after, that I had glued them too far back in the end cap (I had glued them directly above the "non-existant" bits, but) apparently they should be a little bit more towards the edge if they are to be functional and the end cap can be fitted into postition. Measured it out and fitted them again: Then i glued on the rear sight, and this was a real "female dog" to get centered. Felt like i had to adjust it fifty times before I was completely happy. And don't anybody come here and tell me that it's on the wrong way now, because this is final! Hehe. That's as far as I have come right now. I felt the time was right to share the build now, to easier get some input on the continuation; getting and fitting a scope rail and details like that. Not to mention the paint job and such. Hope all the pictures and inane details don't put you off.

While waiting for my armor from TM, I decided to start building the E-11 Bought myself a kit from Doopydoos, all resin and very cheap, considering the alternatives and how accurate this kit is. The kit is great in accuracy and detail, though a few things like scoperail and internal stuff (spring, rear bolt and barrel) aren't included, though I don't really have a problem with that, thinking that it's easy to aquire elsewhere. Seeing as the kit is resin, it's easy to file away at parts to modify them, something I've spent some time doing. I decided to put it together using E6000 feeling it would turn out strong and hold up well to trooping (hopefully). The joints take a while to cure so this is not something you throw together in the course of a day. I've spent four days now, tinkering with it for a few hours at a time, letting the glued parts really set before starting on new ones. I come so far that I'm only missing the scope, hengstler, cocking handle (which hopefully will be mounted to an inner rear bolt of some kind) and fitting the rear endcap. I will try to make it as accurate as I can with the tools I have at my disposal, and I must say that the set of needle files have really come to good use! Here come the pictures: First the layout of all the parts: The first thing I fitted was the grip: Roughing up the surface to be glued using a needle file to score a grid pattern (something I do on all to be glued surfaces): Making sure it's completely at an angle: Securing it tight with two F-clamps (notice I forgot to put the cap back on the E6000 in the heat of the moment): Then come the front sight. This is how it came in the kit. I was going to file and fit it a great deal to make it look a little more accurate: It didn't sit completely flush so I tried to file it to a better fit, not getting it completely flush, but a little tighter. Anyway the glue eliminates minor stuff like that, and I might go back with some putty around all the glued pieces to make a nice clean "weld": Clamped it tight, and went a little overborad on the glue, but that's easily remedied after it has dried, removing the excess with an exacto or similar. Then I glued on the small disc on the mag reciever/holder: The seam on the folding stock wasn't that tight: So I tried to file it to a better fit: Resin dust this far into the build: Then came the trigger and triggerguard, I found that a rubber band was sufficient to hold it in place here: Glued magazine to mag reciecer: Folding stock, also found that a rubber band was sufficient and best to hold it in place here: Same with the ejection port cover thingy:

I'm currently building a Doopydoos full resin kit, and searching for reference, this thread is absolutely awesome! What a beautiful blaster!

Recently got this kit myself and E6000 arrived today, so I might try to put it together using that, only downside is that the E6000 has to cure for at least a day, and that will prolong the build a great deal. I only have one screw-vice and four clamps, so I can't glue on a lot of stuff at the same time. Maybe use rubberbands to hold stuff in place? We'll see. Anyway, looking forward to getting started!

I got myself 20 of those magnets today, and they are strong as hell! Neodymiun N48 I could hardly get them separated. Crazy stuff. Looking forward to more progress here. TM could start with my 2mm ABS this week, but I am waiting to see if he hears from his ABS-supplier concerning 1mm and 1,5mm ABS. He's apparently been waiting for that, and couldn't say anything before he got in touch with his supplier, wether or not there would be a long wait if I were to go for 1mm instead of 2mm. I'm 50/50, but think I might end up with 2mm, as he can make it immediately, and it's very durable. Once again, looking forward to progress on this build

Sounds fun! And a great idea by Joey

Looking good!

I'll join you as soon as I get my gear. Shooting for Centurion, but EI at least. I want that "special memento"!

15"