Quartermaster

When you say snaps popping off, you mean the whole snap assembly popping off (glue not holding) or you mean the elastic snap side popping off the fixed snap side? Also, noticed from your posted pics you have some pretty sharp edges on the top rear of your thighs where the armor meets your butt. Try trimming those edges off a bit and rounding the corners off. Might make that area a bit more comfortable. Brian is right, wearing armor is an ongoing process to get it right for you. Took me 2-3 troops in my TD to figure some things out. This is too tight, that is too loose and so on. You will also pick up some good ideas from others when you see how they have their gear setup. Helped me alot.

Looks great Tyler! You really did a great job for your 1st build. Now get tose submission pics in to Lou!!!!

Looks great Tyler!

Just finished this pack up for another FISD trooper going for HWT. They requested the radio have the option of lighting up, so I installed some battery operated LEDS. This pack was also built for a "smaller" trooper, so I downsized it a bit by shaving about 2 inches off the overall width and about 3 inches off the overall length of a normal TD style pack. Here is how it came out...

Looking good Tyler!

Tyler, I have to echo what others have said. I would go with the snaps, industrial strength velcro, rivets or even Chicago screws. The magnets are a bit pricey and not sure how well that would hold up long term.

I know that some of the blasters used had rubber or plastic T-track, but others used metal track and as can be seen here in pics provided by John Danter, the T-track does show signs or chipping and weathering with the metal showing through. The weathering is a very personal taste and for me, I like the look or a worn battle tested gun. A little of our own personal taste is a good thing. Otherwise, if we all made our gear EXACTLY like what is seen on screen, it would be pretty boring. Just my 2 cents.

Finished up Tylers resin E-11 today and just wanted to post up the finished pics. After a top coat of Metallic Black, I detailed it with some metallic silver dry rubbing. The scope was dry rubbed with an oil finish bronze. Also installed some spring sections in the dremeled area for the cocking lever to give it the appearance up a spring. Cut the spring into 1/4" sections, drilled small holes along the top and bottom of the slide, staggering them. Here is the finished product...

Update.... After some more light sanding, a wash with a mild soap/water combo and a coat of primer, I hit the whole gun up with a coat of metallic silver. Also dremeled out the area for the cocking lever and spring... After some more light sanding, shot it with a base coat of flat black krylon fusion... Gonna do another light sand and get a good coat of a satin metalic black on next, then a little silver dry rubbing o the high spots.

Those are perfect Renata. They look great. Like Tray said, the screen used boots were actually black and were painted white, so you'll be fine. Remember to tape off the black sole before painting. That stays black.

I agree, just be yourself Rachel. Besides, guys love a girl in armor! LOL

Well, I'm the friend Tyler is refering to. I played around with some steel and aluminum bar tonight and ultimately, decided to go with some .125 thickness ABS. I cut it the same width as the rear site and notched it to fit in the site. I then used a heat gun to bend the front and also notched it. I then dremeled out a hole for the notch at the front of the rail to fit in. Tyler had installed 2 posts in the top of the barrel under the old rail for support, but I removed them and filled the holes with some plastic epoxy. The scope was then drilled and mounted to the rail with 2 small screws and washers. The rail was then mounted onto the gun with a small screw at the rear notched area and plastic epoxy at the front notch. I used this pic as a reference, The Master Replicas version... Here is how it came out... I will clean it up a bit more and then it will be ready for painting.

Great job!

Awesome job Steve!

AM is the newest version of FX armor. Don't think the old FX armor is being produced any longer, although you still see unassembled kits pop up from time to time. The new AM is light years better than the old stuff. I have a kit and love it. Great for the "bigger" trooper.

Wow! Great suit Joe! 7 days!!! That's incredible. Just a fantastic job my friend!

So glad it has arrived safely. I always worry a little bit until I know it has arrived. Enjoy it in good health my friend. Glad I was able to help out. Post pics when you are all geared up. Always love to see my packs i action! LOL

Hey Paul, any chance some pics of this pack would make it into the CRL for HWT?

Jim's gear is THE BEST, hands down. It's all I use. A+ customer service as well if you have ANY issues.

Looking good Tyler! Off to a great start. As you know, Weapons are not my forte, but I hope to make myself available soon with any help you need.

Hey everyone! Just wanted to share my latest pack build for another FISD member. I have wanted to do an accurate game version pack for awhile and thanks to a fellow trooper with his eye on the same prize (I will not name him, but I'm sure he will chime in if he wants to) this has now become a reality. While this pack is not perfect, I believe it is as of now, the closest one made to what is seen on screen. All componenets were based from these screen caps.... And here is the newest Version of a Quartermaster HWT Pack... The only liberty I took on this build was the antenna. It is removable by unscrewing it from the base. As always, radio box is lockable and padded for storage.

The pack looks great Laurent as does all your other gear. Good luck!

PM sent.

Looks great Matt. You almost look like an action figure in that shot! Don't worry, Dashrazor will be on soon and will give you the thumbs up I'm sure. Patience my son....patience.

No, you are right. Mine is on upside down. This armor is for my Incinerator Trooper and as per the CRL's and Video Game screen caps, the control panel on my ab plate has to be inverted. The HWT has it the regular way, so you are OK.