Locitus

Read this and don't waste your money on FX. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/index.php?/topic/11538-The-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk 4

Try to make it like the real deal instead: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/2484-td/

Well, to give a more definitive answer to the OP; You won't need much of what you have listed in your post. The requirements include all external components, so things like a charging handle needs to exist. Power cylinders and Hengstler would be assumed for an ANH variation, but I wouldn't argue with you if you replicated a specific model in ANH that was missing those. Basically, if it looks good and has the things you would expect of it, you should be fine. Having all the other parts come from found real parts is overkill, but appreciated.

Seeing more nordics that really care about accuracy and quality makes my cold and bitter heart warm up a little. Keep at it and you will be NG members in no-time.

Nope. Have a look at the original boots found in our gallery "photo references" and you'll learn why those won't do and what to look for next. The link is up top, under our logo.

If they fit, sure. But I seriously doubt that you will ever take your belt apart. My last belt used snaps and it was more hassle than benefit. Now it's permanently attached with rivets. Safe and secure.

To fit snaps you need to drill a whole through the plastic so if you add the "rivet covers" (the squares with the circle dent in them) to the ab belt you will have to fit the snaps first. Same thing with using rivets. Snaps do not equal rivets. The correct rivet to use are cap rivets,

How else would you fit the snaps? BTW, the accurate way is to permanently rivet the ab belt to the canvas belt before covering the rivets with the covers.

Try searching Link broken

Yeah, I've seen the sale thread before. But the only picture of value is that of the EE-3. The rest are replicas and useless as proof. What's lacking is conclusive proof his track are the closest to the EE-3 and that the track on it is identical to the tracks on other props.

I know Gino has a good eye for detail, but I don't just take his word for it. Plus, even if he is right, it's an opportunity to learn more about them. And even if he has come down in price because of Marv and Mark's competition he still wants a lot of money for something he so far, at least from how it appears to me, simply 'says' is more accurate. Not good enough.

I would like to revisit whatever proof Gino has of his dimensions. Anyone know if he posted it, and where?

I bow my head to you Andy. That is amazing!

Aside from the bolt you have sitting very close to the edge, you should be fine. The gap you are worried about will be pulled in, and also hidden once the ears go on top. Like you can see on these two original sandtrooper helmets, it's a design issue, not just something with your helmet. Visit www.starwarshelmets.com for some interesting reading. ---------

The ridge on the forearm you show here should always be cut to half the size of the coverstrip. But if you need to cut more to fit skinny arms you should cut on the other side of it that doesn't have that ridge. Like this: W = width of coverstrip. Ridge should be half of W.

Blue line trimming looks good. You might want to keep some more around the big ab button plate, to help the glue stick but the others look fine.

Yes, it's normal. No you're not too skinny, you just need to trim the arms narrower. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/23893-samurais-ne-armor-build/page-2#entry305985 Trim in the back where there is no "ridge" when making size adjustments for skinny people.

I know Amplexor in Norway is almost finished with his CFO kit. Last time we spoke it was just a small strapping issue.

Like the first post says, they are Danish military issue.

Yes. Check out the gallery. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/image/920-ab-plate-05jpg/

Have you not trimmed the 4-button ab plate? Looks like you just popped it on like a shell.

Yeah, no problem about that. Unless you completely screw up the paintjob of course. You can checkout what we know of the original boots here http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/album/20-boots-original-brand/

Looks good to me.

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/22913-finish-cover-strip-measurements/?hl=%2Bcover+%2Bstrip+%2Bwidth

Indeed they were.