RogueTrooper

Hey Steve, here is some info about the new 3-D technology: RealD 3D cinema technology uses circularly polarized light to produce stereoscopic image projection. Circular polarization technology has the advantage over linear polarization methods in that viewers are able to tilt their head and look about the theater naturally with no loss of 3D perception, whereas linear polarization projection requires viewers to keep their head orientation aligned within a narrow range of tilt for effective 3D perception; otherwise they may see double or darkened images.[6] The projector alternately projects right-eye frames and left-eye frames 144 times per second. [6] It circularly polarizes these frames, clockwise for the right eye and counterclockwise for the left eye. A push-pull electro-optical liquid crystal modulator called a ZScreen is placed immediately in front of the projector lens to switch polarization. The audience wears spectacles with oppositely circularly polarized lenses to ensure each eye sees only its designated frame, even if the head is tilted. In RealD Cinema, each frame is projected three times to reduce flicker, a system called triple flash. The source video is usually produced at 24 frames per second per eye (total 48 frames/s), which may result in subtle ghosting and stuttering on horizontal camera movements. A silver screen is used to maintain the light polarization upon reflection and to reduce reflection loss to counter the inherent losses by the polarization filters. The result is a 3D picture that seems to extend behind and in front of the screen itself And here is the style of 3-D glasses... not the old red and blue that give ya a headache And the 4-D cinemas are awesome!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Here is a link to Deckard:http://forum.whitearmor.net/index.php?showuser=1531

This year marks the 30th anniversary of The Empire Strikes Back.... So look out Rebels, the 501st is in the house!!!! Countdown: 155 days until Celebration V... Is your armor ready? Star Wars Celebration is the official Lucasfilm event celebrating all things Star Wars, produced by fans for fans. Celebrations are the largest Star Wars parties, featuring cast and crew celebrities, fans, costumes, music, live entertainment, autographs, collectibles, and panels — but mainly friends who gather to have fun and celebrate their love for the saga. From fans who first experienced A New Hope in theaters to kids just discovering Star Wars through Star Wars: The Clone Wars, Star Wars Celebration touches on anything and everything connected with that galaxy far, far away. The first such event took place in 1999, and we’re proud to host the fifth Celebration in 2010! Star Wars Celebration V will take place August 12 - 15, 2010, commemorating the 30th Anniversary of The Empire Strikes Back, celebrating the continuing televised adventures of the animated Star Wars: The Clone Wars, and looking forward to exciting new Star Wars projects to come. Thursday, August 12, 2010 10:00 AM - 7:00 PM Friday, August 13, 2010 10:00 AM - 7:00 PM Saturday, August 14, 2010 10:00 AM - 7:00 PM Sunday, August 15, 2010 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM Note that Star Wars Celebration's Exhibition Hall and other exhibits close nightly at 7 PM (and 5 PM on Sunday), but panels, screenings, and special events could go on later. Star Wars Celebration V is being held at the Orange County Convention Center in Orlando, FL for more info, your can go to: http://www.starwarscelebration.com/

Also there is new kit called TKX, just like AM armor... both are suited for the big and tall troopers. They both run about the same price. http://tk1336.com/tkx.html Watch out for the laser blast when you go to the link

Happy to help! I would worry about Yoda giving directions, to turn left you are not.....do or do not take a right at the next light. Getting directions from R2 would hard, since he only beeps and whistles, how would anyone understand him.... I don't speak droid???

Nice Shawn!! Can't wait to see you all suited up in this ROTJ, mate!

BRILLIANT!! Rolf just BRILLIANT!!

Nice.....What is the estimatemated weight on it? Cheers!

Hey Will, I am glad you found the E-6000. I was getting worried that I was going to have drop ship you some. Don't forget to let that fullly cure. i know you said you have a 3 day weekend, but no need to try to rush anything.

I am with you, Panda. Lucas loves this CGI stuff to the point that the movie looses its soul. I remember Ron Howard talking about his audition for American Graffiti. When he sat down and was telling Lucas that he was going to film school, George told him, oh that's wonderful. Once you get in there, get into the animation department. That's where it's just you and nothing else, You don't have to worry about actors and the crew. Ron recounted that was kind of ironic that Lucas wanted to be a director, but didn't want to deal with actors, the crew and everything that it takes to make a film. So I guess if George could have his way, he would replace everyone in the Star Wars Saga for CGI characters. If you can hear me George, please leave well enough alone!!

Sorry, the first link was bad: When you go to the link look for "Here is a complete list of celebrity voices and international TomTom voices." then you will find the list with: Yoda, Darth Vader, R2D2, C3po, Clint Eastwood, Ozzy Osborne, and more. <a href="http://www.gps-data-team.com/pda-gps-navigation/links/index.php" target="_blank">http://www.gps-data-team.com/pda-gps-navig...links/index.php</a>

About any new GPS now can do this, TomTom, Garmin, Navman. Here is the link for the Yoda and Darth Vader GPS voices: http://www.gps-data-team.com/pda-gps-navig...554&ID=Yoda

BTW, which are you building, ANH or ESB?

I am glad you started a new post for the fruits of your labor man. Even though you moved it, The bucket still looks great! I am re -posting the paint info so you will not have to jump back to your original post to get it Keep up the GREAT WORK!!! Paint tips: There are some things you will need to do when prepping your helmet for paint. Use a scotchbrite pad on the surface of the helmet first. Then use Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner or any good All-Purpose Cleaner and then rinse well with water. Then use a lint free cloth with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) wipe the surface down to clean any remaining oils and dirt off the surface. Just before you paint, use a tack cloth to remove any dust or loose materials. When you are ready to paint the helmet: Set the helmet on a stand ( use a 2x2 inch think 4ft tall piece of wood, nailed to the center of a 2ft x 2ft piece of plywood for a stable base) the stand is so you can prime and paint all areas without having to touch the helmet. Test your spray paint. Shake the can vigorously before spraying. Test your paint or spraying technique in an inconspicuous area or on a piece of scrap material before beginning to spay your lid. Apply multiple thin coats. Once you have completed your paint test and are satisfied, spray the helmet using several thin, multiple coats instead of one thick coat. Begin and finish your spray pattern off the object, releasing the button at the end of each pass. Use an even side-to-side motion with each pass overlapping your spray pattern. Clean spray valve after use. Before storing your aerosol cans for future use, clean the spray valve by turning the cans upside down and spraying for 5 seconds. This helps prevent the spray tip from clogging. Allow the helmet to dry. Check the directions on the back of the can for a recoat window. A recoat window identifies when additional coats can be applied within a certain timeframe. When you are finished applying all coats, do not handle the helmets surface until the paint has cured. Curing time will vary depending on humidity and temperature. SO do not rush it! You do not want finger prints all over your stormie. Set it somewhere out of the way in a dry, warm place. DO NOT set near a heater, fire place, stove or oven. Type of paint I would suggest is Rust-Oleum aerosol paint (Professional HIGH PERFORMANCE ENAMEL SPRAY- Gloss White 7592) Hope this info help you. If you have any questions dont hesitate to ask!

Take lots of HD pics of his armor for reference!

Was his name, ADYWAN

Golf clap!!!!, I would rather has some of the money back for lucas for all the different editions he put out........... And quit FN around with the movies and show some true artistry. I guess Lucas is not confident enough in his ability as a writer, director when he has to keep going back and changing things on a regular basis. If it had not been for the talented people, that were the true artist of the Star Wars Universe, who got very little credit for steering the movie, and Lucas' ex-wife, who help guide the original Trilogy, there would not be any reason for these prequels and and no need for the doors at Lucas Film Limited to be open at this time.

Hey Jon, did you get up with the guy from the Carolina Garrison that was going to show you his TE armor?

I got the same mag too, Troops was on the review DVD and it has audio commentary from the Director.

I think it is because the great FISD staff!!! A friendly relaxed enviornment, where new people feel encouraged to participate!!! And one more thing that makes this forum GREAT.... WHITE ARMOR RULES!!!!!!!!

When The Force Among Us came out, they were selling little bags of sand from the Tunisia film site tour (tatooine sand) for a buck. I went ahead and bought a baggie of Tatooine....not sure if it is real or not, but it was a buck....So if there is someone selling some Dagobah porperty (swamp land) I guess I will look into it..LOL!!!

BRILLIANT!!!! Darryl Just BRILLIANT!!!!

CONGRATS MAN!!!! YaaAAhHH!!!!! You are going to have so much fun!!!! Here is my two cents worth of advice.... Make a check list to go by. Have all the tools and glue that you will need. (spring clamps, blue painters tape, etc..) Have good place to work, lots of light. Read over the tutorials that Stuka printed for you. Measure Four times, cut once!!! Do Not rush your build! Do not hesitate to post questions. That is what the FISD is all about, Troppers helping Troopers! Take lots of HD pics, so we all can ooh and ahhh over them. And Have fun man!!!! that is what it is all about!!!

Paint tips: There are some things you will need to do when prepping your helmet for paint. Use a scotchbrite pad on the surface of the helmet first. Then use Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner or any good All-Purpose Cleaner and then rinse well with water. Then use a lint free cloth with isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) wipe the surface down to clean any remaining oils and dirt off the surface. Just before you paint, use a tack cloth to remove any dust or loose materials. When you are ready to paint the helmet: Set the helmet on a stand ( use a 2x2 inch think 4ft tall piece of wood, nailed to the center of a 2ft x 2ft piece of plywood for a stable base) the stand is so you can prime and paint all areas without having to touch the helmet. Test your spray paint. Shake the can vigorously before spraying. Test your paint or spraying technique in an inconspicuous area or on a piece of scrap material before beginning to spay your lid. Apply multiple thin coats. Once you have completed your paint test and are satisfied, spray the helmet using several thin, multiple coats instead of one thick coat. Begin and finish your spray pattern off the object, releasing the button at the end of each pass. Use an even side-to-side motion with each pass overlapping your spray pattern. Clean spray valve after use. Before storing your aerosol cans for future use, clean the spray valve by turning the cans upside down and spraying for 5 seconds. This helps prevent the spray tip from clogging. Allow the helmet to dry. Check the directions on the back of the can for a recoat window. A recoat window identifies when additional coats can be applied within a certain timeframe. When you are finished applying all coats, do not handle the helmets surface until the paint has cured. Curing time will vary depending on humidity and temperature. SO do not rush it! You do not want finger prints all over your stormie. Set it somewhere out of the way in a dry, warm place. DO NOT set near a heater, fire place, stove or oven. Type of paint I would suggest is Rust-Oleum aerosol paint (Professional HIGH PERFORMANCE ENAMEL SPRAY- Gloss White 7592) Hope this info help you. If you have any questions don’t hesitate to ask!

Hey Jon, The bucket look great man Are you shore that this is your first time putting together a TK Head Holder? BTW, are you doing ANH or ESB build? Keep up the good work!!!!!!!!