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Mandatory Information Costume = Stormtrooper, The Last Jedi Costume CRL Link = https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_TLJ Name = Justin R. TKID = 61490 Forum Name = TheRascalKing Legion Profile = https://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=26076 Garrison/Squad = Southern California Garrison, Orange County Squad Armor = Denuo Novo Helmet = Anovos, TLJ (Standard) Optional Information Height = 5ft 11in, or 180cm Weight = 175lbs, or 80kg Neckseal & Gaskets = Sheev's Emporium Belt Boxes = Imperial Surplus Holster = Dantooine Props (functional) Hand Plates = Dantooine Props Thermal Detonator = Crossfire Props (Jesse_M files) Gloves = Endor Finders Undersuit shorts = Geeky Pink's Boots = Imperial Boots Armor Photos Helmet Off (unadjusted) Full Body Front Full Body Back Full Right Full Left I did my best to incorporate feedback from my TFA submission, including the new backdrop, but am still "training" my wife/wrangler/photographer on the new CRL (she knows the OTTK pretty well at this point!). I know the belt is over the spine plate and a little low in some areas but otherwise hoping these sail through Basic with my GML this week and not much is needed for L2. Thanks for any feedback!

That's really neat! Thanks your encouragement!

Yes sir! I found it best, when first getting started, to follow in the footsteps of those before me. Joseph's soft parts list in this thread is a great place to start. My white canvas belt came from Kittell (Imperial Issue), holster from Darman and boots from Imperial Boots (now known as Keep Trooping after their name change).

Great list! Know i know what to have before trying to build. I quess the best thing for me to do is use this list along with any assembly guidence i find with in FISF. Thanks.

The problem we have is that in Star Wars all the weapons look like real world weapons due to the aesthetic chosen back in the 70s. Whilst that’s changing a bit with other franchises, we’re not carrying phasers. This means you really really need to be aware of who might see this and the conclusions and consequences that may lead to. One thing that’s worth mentioning and probably not overly well known is that in the UK is simply owning an E-11 could potentially be a firearms offence, and so can REALLY land you in hot water if you don’t use some common sense. Due to the appearance it falls under the legislation for a “Replica Imitation Firearm”. Without going too far into it as I am not qualified to do so, the manufacture and possession is illegal without a “reasonable excuse”. This is a nice summary from some one who at least appears to know what they are on about: https://www.askthe.police.uk/faq/?id=587bc863-12db-eb11-bacb-0022483f57c9

It's a cautionary tale of recognizing that, although we know our blasters are not real guns, that may not be clear to the general public. All cosplayers/costumers need to be mindful of this concern.

This Saturday (13th of April) at 16:00 GMT we will be in the Discord video chat. Please join us to talk about Star Wars, Stormtroopers and whatever else is on your mind! Everyone is welcome to join us and we're looking forward to seeing you on there!

Hi all. Rather than me posting on specific threads, I thought I’d make a post about the correct use of the “Dave M” style decals/templates for ANH Stunt lids. If it is deemed worthy, perhaps it could become a sticky. I will then try my best not to mention it on individual posts (as the last thing I want to do is upset anyone). As the name “Tube Stripe Police” was bestowed upon me, I feel it’s my duty to try and spread he work to keep up the high standards of TK screen accuracy. I hope I have not become a nuisance by flagging it. So, here are some shots of the Set for Stun, or “Dave M” helmet from ANH. These pictures are from the excellent website www.starwarshelmets.com My interpretation of these stripes are that they were intended to look like vents on a curved surface. When viewed from straight on they should naturally curve with the tube. Here are some shots that I put together (using my old SDS lid, hand painted stripes using Dave M style templates/stencils from Mike at Trooperbay). For obvious reasons, I won’t show pictures of those that have been applied the other way around as they are not mine to share and I don’t want to alienate people. Should anyone wish to share, please feel free. I hope that all makes sense. Any comments of suggestions to improve this thread, please let me know. Kind regards, Dan

Just going to add a bit on battery info. 3.6 and 3.7 are just nominal voltages - the voltage of any lithium-ion varies with the charge level. A properly protected lithium-ion will be at 4.0-4.2v fresh off the charger, spend most of it's run time at ~3.63.7v, then shut itself off to prevent damage when it drops to ~2.5v. Recharge and repeat. It's very important to get a protected cell - aside from the fire hazard (a shorted cell won't necessarily go *boom*, but it can heat up to the point of damaging equipment and even starting a fire that water won't put out), an unprotected cell might charge over the typical 4.2v limit and damage the iComm circuitry. The size lithium-ion to use in a AA holder is perhaps more commonly referred to as a 14500 (name identifies the size - 14mm diameter, 50mm long). In the US, Trustfire is a decent budget brand. I've used XTAR that work well. Genuine Ultrafires are fine. Try to avoid something-fire brands from chinese sellers - they might very well be knock-off cells of dubious quality. Especially avoid any 14500 rated at anything much higher than 900mAh - it's almost guaranteed to be a chinese cell with a fake rating. Most 14500s will be rated at 800-900mAh.