So the first thing with understanding build thread is giving the look through other build threads to see how others have done them. Some of us use them as a way to provide a road map for others in their build questions and paths, others use them as a means to ask questions and get an idea of how to proceed in their armor building process. For example you can see a number of OTTK build threads here: https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/6-anh-stunt-and-hero/ Regarding image posting and such you can follow information in this guide on how to host your images in Imgur and then insert into posts and build threads. https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48799-posting-photos-using-imgur-101/ Hopefully those resources can get you going. If you aren’t sure where to start with a build thread, I’d recommend maybe photos of inventory of your hard armor to make sure everything is there and then you can start sizing things and using blue tape to hold things together while you try an initial pre cuts and sizing try on of the armor. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Great advice Kyle! Thanks! I have been taking inventory on all my Anovos TK armor and pictures to go with them. I will upload shortly. I first started with reading Ukswraths thread on his Anovos TK build as well as went down the rabbit hole of the CRL's and requirements for Centurion level. Also checked another build thread that was not Anovos (forgot what it was) but was a plethora of info. I am currently just checking out my helmet and noticed a few things that need to change to meet Centurion level like the angle of the earpiece to the traps (i believe I am saying that correctly), the gray is protruding past the teeth in the frown, and the Hovi MIX Aerator's are not correct with the white trim and correct wide type mesh. (Pictures will follow). Anyhow, just trying to soak up as much research as all possible before I start to cut. I am in construction and I know the rule of measure twice and cut once so I am waiting to go that far. I have also signed up for an armor party locally here which is in a week and a half and am thinking I will wait to do anything drastic with my kit until then.
.......to be continued
Hi Matt, your helmet looks to be an EFX one, if you haven't done yet, there are some mods you would need to do for a basic level approval but under the Hero CRL configuration , since you're planning to go for Centurion Level I would recommend to change it for a more accurate one.
EFX HELMET
Here's my L3 for comparison, I can't see any issues but see what our DO's say @Deployment Officer Team
From the CRL
Hook arms should be black and center stem silver
Visual dictionary
Couple steps forward and one back today. I got the internal shoulder bridge strapping done and was able to try things on. The back armor plastic over the shoulders was pushing the bridges and front plastic up so I trimmed both sides of the back armor back about 30mm that should help with the bridges laying flat along with the elastic bands The other thing I noticed while suiting up and checking shoulder bells is I had the bells on the wrong sides so I’ve since removed the elastic holding them to the biceps and have new elastic setting so I can swap them around Slight delay but shouldn’t be too long. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks for the input! I do plan to remove some of the return edge for mobility, but I wanted to do that as I trim the tops of the assembled thighs so I know how much of the return edge, I need to remove.
General rule is you should be able to just fit your thumb in between the thigh and your leg. So if that is how it fits then that’s how you’ll trim. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
For yellowing you can try Ret0bright, worked great on my lid of my 10 year old ATA helmet.
Those you have already mentioned and a couple other options, Heavy Weapons Trooper or The Force Unleashed, both have some weathering.
The Crl states for L2: Sniper knee plate must be aligned with the ridges on the shin.
Depending on the armor, some molds match exactly the sniper knee flat and aligned with the ridges of the shin as you rightly pointed and on the contrary others don't match flat.
On screen with can see both, flat and with little gap .
Since the CRL requirement is to be aligned with the ridges, a little gap in the bottom is allowable .
Example EIB app References
References
Gap Flat
You can make a Pre-glue test and post here or by PM to see how it looks.
Hi Lauren. Welcome to the FISD. You sound like you are off to a good start with your support team. Make sure to start a build thread and ask lots of questions. There is so much help to be had here.