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Hey Miles! Welcome back!

Welcome back Miles

Hi Joe, and thank you for your EIB application! CRL and EIB Application Requirements: All required photos have been submitted, and on behalf of the entire D.O. staff we are pleased to welcome you to the rank of Expert Infantry. Congratulations! Other-Armor Fit/Assembly; In this area we review observations made by your fellow troopers and the DO team. Some observations may lead to suggestions to improve the overall look of your armor, and please keep in mind that we consider both text (CRL) and pictures (screen caps/reference images) when reviewing submissions. Helmet Your Helmet is sitting a bit high on your head, giving you a bit of a bobble head look, by removing some of the padding at the top, it should drop your helmet down and give you a more screen accurate look. Doing this will often improve vision as well. References *************************************************** Centurion Requirements: In this section we prepare you for our highest tier of approval. Because Centurion photos must show more detail than EIB, items pertaining to Level 3 might be seen there and not here and additional photos may be required. We try to point out all that we can from what we are able to clearly see, but the final accuracy is the responsibility of the trooper.  Shoulder Armor For Level 3 approval, your right shoulder armour will need to come in slightly. to close the gap at the shoulder bridge CRL L3: There should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates.  References   Forearms We will need a bit of sanding on the openings of the forearms for Level 3 approval as there is still a bit of return edge remaining. CRL L3: No return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed. References Your forearms are looking a bit oversized. This may be corrected by reducing the size slightly but some foam on the inside to keep your arm centered within the forearm will likely correct this issue. References Abdominal Armor The edges of the large abdominal button plate should be cut square and not have rounded edges. As long as the plate was attached with E6000, it should not be too hard to carefully remove and trim. CRL L3: Plate does not overlap the edges of this area and shall show a definite straight cut edge around all sides. References Boots Your boots meet all of the CRL criteria but appear to be a bit large as they are quite wrinkled over the top of the foot. This will need to be corrected for Level 3 approval. Hopefully you can have this fixed by a shoe repair person or similar with an insert to make the boots more snug, and not have to purchase a new pair. References Blaster Your blaster is missing the spring in the receiver chamber. For level 3 approval, we are going to need this to be added for a more screen accurate blaster. References

Thanks for that. DM'd him now. This is probably the best lead I've had so far. I appreciate it.

A little late to the party here but welcome to the forum David!

You could try to DM him @Troopacoola, he was on the forum yesterday according to his profile

Anybody know how to get Troop's attention without having a Facebook account? Is he still making these? I would like one but can't get hold of him.

Yea there is a very slight outward flare but I think if i cut and angle the top edge and slope it, it will help it sit better as well. Thanks again!!

There's been a bit of variety in the the non-saga costumes over the years, so it's a bit dependent on what you're going for... If you're attempting an R1-style set of armor, there's a small gap between the abdomen and bottom lip of the chestplate: Whereas the newer/later suits are more "flush" but still have a small gap present. Part of the issue I believe you're running into is the upper part of your abdomen print does flare too far outward. I make no claim to be an expert in this field, and there are more with far more experience than me, but with what knowledge I do possess I can attest the armor is a barrel-style with a minor (and I'm talking minor) outward flare at the top. If anything, from the waist to mid-chest it's a straight approach with a subtle top curve... hard to see, but this is a decent side angle of it (from an R1 production piece): Alain's files are really good given when they came out... just slightly exaggerated in some areas. Better than PPC, or Akira's files in several ways.

Thanks, yea i was looking at that but as soon as i push the top inward the bottom pushes out. Either the abdomen top is out too far or the chest piece isn't built properly to fit this abdomen piece. So I'm printing the part now that will hopefully fit better and eliminate the gap.

This looks good! You made surprisingly quick work of printing and painting this. You'll probably just need to tighten your strapping up top to accommodate, as the upper shoulder section should sit against your chest.

Now I'm printing the new chest plate that came with this file and hoping it will sit closer up at the top. This one has a pretty big gap and if i push the top in the bottom rocks outward.

What i got so far.

OK, I have merged the two accounts, and updated the email address to your new gmail-address. You should be back on your old account by resetting the password.

Normally I wouldn't do such a thing since it could just as well be a hostile account take-over. But I will see what i can do.

Looking good James

While I can't share direct references, I've been fortunate to have access to some great resources. You can spot this piece poking out in a couple of instances from Kenobi and Andor. We're fairly confident this addition was meant to reinforce the top edge of the abdomen, which handles a significant amount of stress and weight from supporting the spine plate—which also holds up the rear belt, thermal detonator, and posterior armor. While this detail isn't present on the original Rogue One armor, it's clear that it was implemented down the line as a functional upgrade (and adds a unique bit of detail). The last iteration of the lens is pretty close. Trying to contour a welding visor yielded mixed results, as I'm sure you've found too, so this was the next best idea. I've juggled going darker, but that's where we run into visibility issues. I'm hoping to get helmet #4 assembled here shortly (potentially this week) to get a more proper test underway, since it's hard to gauge the darkness when the lenses are directly exposed to light with no blocking.

Making good progress James. I'm watching with intent as may be getting an FO 850 kit off a local trooper who has decided not to build it.

sorry for the weird cyan block, Imgur said it needed to be censored.

Great job with the abdomen, I actually never new there were some raised faces/details near the top next to the kidney plate and I would love to see what reference you found this from if possible. Those resin printed lenses are looking sweet, but when compared to the regular welding visor or formed sheet, they're not going to be too transparent in light for others to see your eyes, right? Keep it up, and with all the helmets you're making I think you're going to have your own personal army at this rate, looking forward to your next update.

Thank you. I did do a print of the front and rear and now I'm seeing how it all fits as basically one unit. The belt was a little tight so i added about ½ on each side. Tomorrow I hoping to do another fit test with the complete setup.

I would presume it's the same thing.

Update, helmet is looking great, ran it by my GML and he says it passes the CRLs. Now onto the chest armour I'm loving theese greeblies

We must keep the meme train going even if it falls on me, Morgi or whoever that wants to spread some comedy. I think we can relate to this if it happened to anyone in the 501st it ain't FISD related but the krennic pic just made it funny af(the image came from a YT video showing Krennic being sassy in rouge 1 and andor)

Thanks gmrhodes13! Good call on the buttons. I'll fix that while I'm at it. Is Goo Remover and Goo Gone the same thing? I'll try Goo Gone (which I have), a higher cutting compound, Retr0bright and then try wet sanding in that order.