DarthAndy's ANH Stunt build thread

[DarthAndy]

Hi guys, just starting my build, or more accurately, modification thread for an ANH Stunt stormtrooper. I recently bought a lightly used SDS set of armor here in the Dallas area for a couple hundred bucks. Didn't know at the time, but I now see that SDS isn't really well regarded for a variety of very good reasons. That's understood, but in the spirit of working with what I have, I'd like to get this set up to standard for basic approval and possibly higher as time goes on.

 

I've already jumped in and changed the belt (The standard SDS armor comes with an all ABS belt for some reason), but I think i might need to trim a couple of mm off either side of the ABS so that the 45 degree angles meet the canvas properly. Is that the right thing to do here? or just leave it as is?

Edited August 11, 2025 by DarthAndy

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

2 hours ago, DarthAndy said:

Hi guys, just starting my build, or more accurately, modification thread for an ANH Stunt stormtrooper. I recently bought a lightly used SDS set of armor here in the Dallas area for a couple hundred bucks. Didn't know at the time, but I now see that SDS isn't really well regarded for a variety of very good reasons. That's understood, but in the spirit of working with what I have, I'd like to get this set up to standard for basic approval and possibly higher as time goes on.

 

I've already jumped in and changed the belt (The standard SDS armor comes with an all ABS belt for some reason), but I think i might need to trim a couple of mm off either side of the ABS so that the 45 degree angles meet the canvas properly. Is that the right thing to do here? or just leave it as is?

Hello and welcome, correct trim to match the belt, this however is a L3 requirement so you should be ok for basic approval

 

• The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt.

There are a few things that SDS needs updating, great threads here

 

 

 

[DarthAndy]

Thank you

[Doggydoc[Staff]]

Here is where the trim line would need to be to make it L3 compliant.

 

[Helotech[TK]]

On 8/11/2025 at 4:58 PM, gmrhodes13 said:

Hello and welcome, correct trim to match the belt, this however is a L3 requirement so you should be ok for basic approval

 

• The corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt.

There are a few things that SDS needs updating, great threads here

 

 

 

Thanks again Glen! I should get residual payments for each link from you LOL

[DarthAndy]

Been all over the place these last few days:

• fixing a few cracks with t shirt material and ABS paste
• making cover strips for all the armor pieces from the SDS ABS belt piece,
• Peeling Velcro off and trimming the overlap connections on legs and arms so I can butt join all the armor.
• Trimming excess cover strips on the thighs so it doesn't go past the lower ridges etc.
• Removing the SDS fasteners from the sniper plate and re-attaching it with glue
• Squaring off the knee ammo belt top
• Strapping and double snapping the main body of the armor.

 

Letting the E6000 set seems to be the long pole in the tent, but this is pretty addictive and fun

 

Still need to:

1. put the split rivets on the left side of the armor, plus the relevant snaps
2. paint those hovi mike tips white
3. trim that belt a little (will do that once I have the fit right)
4. re-finish that helmet vocoder with some sort of modeling putty to make it seem to be fully integrated with the helmet
5. touch up the blue buttons on the chest with the right blue
6. work on the general fit

The more I look at this SDS chest piece the more I'm convinced it's slightly too narrow. I wonder if anyone has found a better chest piece that matches the SDS acrylic capped ABS look?

 

 

 

 

 

Edited August 20, 2025 by DarthAndy

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Generally we leave E6000 24 hours to dry, BUT for any pieces under strain/stress leave for 48 to 72 hours.

 

You may want to add some material and fill the gap in the lower ridge of your thigh

 

 

 

It is a level 3 requirement, your GML may allow the gap but best check with him/her/them

OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable):

• Lower thigh ridge joins (front and rear) shall butt-up flush against each other. Any gaps must be backed with ABS or filled as not to be noticeable.

 

You can also take off the corners of your cover strips (as you can see in the reference above), this is done to stop the sharp corners catching on you or your undersuit.

[DarthAndy]

Thanks Glen, I probably will fill it for the look, was just going to get a bit more comfortable with using ABS paste / sanding etc on less visible areas first so I don't mess it up

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

32 minutes ago, DarthAndy said:

Thanks Glen, I probably will fill it for the look, was just going to get a bit more comfortable with using ABS paste / sanding etc on less visible areas first so I don't mess it up

I find nice thin coats is best, allows it to dry with little to no air bubbles, the thicker you apply the more the air bubbles which will show when sanding.

 

Sanding and compounding is a slow process, I like to use water and wet and dry sandpaper, a drop of dish soap can help the paper to glide and not get clogged as much as dry sanding, once you get it just about flat go through with finer grit sandpaper, a compound polish at the end to get the shine back.

 

Threads on ABS paste 

 

[Shanester[TK]]

Using ABS paste, even making it, was a scary thing for me, but a little practice gave me a lot of confidence to fill gaps on my costume.  Hang in there! You are doing a stellar job.

[DarthAndy]

Super complex update last night :)

 

[DarthAndy]

filled that knee gap. I think i need to sand / polish a bit more to make it look cleaner, but thanks for the advice guys, wasn't too tricky

 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Nice work

[DarthAndy]

Got distracted a little and 3d printed out a pretty nice e11 model...then found a used, beaten up all metal airsoft sterling for cheap (on the right before t track installation) which I'm in the process of converting. The sterling airsoft is nice, but no way my mannequin is holding that all day long. It has some weight to it. He can hold the 3d print when he's off duty.

 

 

 

 

[DarthAndy]

TD time today (the SDS clips are too skinny and offset much too far from the end caps, so needed replacing, and the screws weren't black)