DarthAndy

TD time today (the SDS clips are too skinny and offset much too far from the end caps, so needed replacing, and the screws weren't black)

Got distracted a little and 3d printed out a pretty nice e11 model...then found a used, beaten up all metal airsoft sterling for cheap (on the right before t track installation) which I'm in the process of converting. The sterling airsoft is nice, but no way my mannequin is holding that all day long. It has some weight to it. He can hold the 3d print when he's off duty.

filled that knee gap. I think i need to sand / polish a bit more to make it look cleaner, but thanks for the advice guys, wasn't too tricky

Super complex update last night :)

Thanks Glen, I probably will fill it for the look, was just going to get a bit more comfortable with using ABS paste / sanding etc on less visible areas first so I don't mess it up

Been all over the place these last few days: fixing a few cracks with t shirt material and ABS paste making cover strips for all the armor pieces from the SDS ABS belt piece, Peeling Velcro off and trimming the overlap connections on legs and arms so I can butt join all the armor. Trimming excess cover strips on the thighs so it doesn't go past the lower ridges etc. Removing the SDS fasteners from the sniper plate and re-attaching it with glue Squaring off the knee ammo belt top Strapping and double snapping the main body of the armor. Letting the E6000 set seems to be the long pole in the tent, but this is pretty addictive and fun Still need to: put the split rivets on the left side of the armor, plus the relevant snaps paint those hovi mike tips white trim that belt a little (will do that once I have the fit right) re-finish that helmet vocoder with some sort of modeling putty to make it seem to be fully integrated with the helmet touch up the blue buttons on the chest with the right blue work on the general fit The more I look at this SDS chest piece the more I'm convinced it's slightly too narrow. I wonder if anyone has found a better chest piece that matches the SDS acrylic capped ABS look?

Thanks mate, so it's really all about not having the gaps vs something fundamentally wrong with it being an extra bit. As long as it visually looks like its a complete continuation of the helmet I'm going in the right direction? Very helpful, thank you

Thank you

Hi guys, just starting my build, or more accurately, modification thread for an ANH Stunt stormtrooper. I recently bought a lightly used SDS set of armor here in the Dallas area for a couple hundred bucks. Didn't know at the time, but I now see that SDS isn't really well regarded for a variety of very good reasons. That's understood, but in the spirit of working with what I have, I'd like to get this set up to standard for basic approval and possibly higher as time goes on. I've already jumped in and changed the belt (The standard SDS armor comes with an all ABS belt for some reason), but I think i might need to trim a couple of mm off either side of the ABS so that the 45 degree angles meet the canvas properly. Is that the right thing to do here? or just leave it as is?

Hi guys, new to this, but hoping you can help. I recently picked up a cheap, used set of armor here in the Dallas area, a barely used SDS battle spec kit. I knew nothing about armor before I bought it, but have since been down the internet rabbit hole of information relating to SDS, so I think I have a slightly better understanding of some of the problems with the armor and .....other things. I've found a good few resources on here where others have worked on SDS armor to 'fix' it and have started to make a few easy fixes before I really get into it. (I just switched out the all ABS belt for a canvas one) My question relates to the helmet. I see at higher levels that the helmet wouldn't be approvable as it has the vocoder as a separate piece. Is there a way to fix this at all? Or am I looking at a new lid if I ever wanted to get it to that higher spec? Cheers Andy