TK ANH Stunt by CloseTheBlastDoor

[CloseTheBlastDoor]

Got it, I'll leave the kidney plate as-is shape-wise.

 

I'm an electrical engineer by trade, so I've got an old soldering iron that I've been using for the snap holes. It indeed works well! But it stinks to high heaven! 

 

The stackup of armor + 2x elastic + ABS is pretty thick for the rivet, it seems. But the ABS is in place of the washer, right? I'll give that a try.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

23 minutes ago, CloseTheBlastDoor said:

The stackup of armor + 2x elastic + ABS is pretty thick for the rivet, it seems. But the ABS is in place of the washer, right? I'll give that a try.

You can get different rivet post lengths, I don't worry about a washer as the ABS does that job. I do however once finished I apply some silicon on the exposed rivet split post just so they don't catch on my undersuit or me, might be overkill to some but works for me.

[CloseTheBlastDoor]

Thanks! I have the 9-pack of as-specified split rivets from TrooperBay. I just did a test fit, and I don't have really anything to work with:

 

 

Hopefully I can find some longer ones locally!

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

20 minutes ago, CloseTheBlastDoor said:

Thanks! I have the 9-pack of as-specified split rivets from TrooperBay. I just did a test fit, and I don't have really anything to work with:

 

 

Hopefully I can find some longer ones locally!

If not you can still use a washer and don't use the ABS strip, it's only added support, which again is overkill for some.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Screen suit reference

 

 

and placement

 

[dblcross[TK]]

1 hour ago, gmrhodes13 said:

If not you can still use a washer and don't use the ABS strip, it's only added support, which again is overkill for some.

I didn't use an ABS support strip on my rivets if it helps you make a decision. But I did use washers.

Edited May 18 by dblcross

[CloseTheBlastDoor]

Thanks, Terry and Glen! I did end up ordering the longer rivets, since I kinda liked the idea of spreading out the strain on the hole in the elastic. So while I am waiting for those…

 

I wasn’t thinking and just made the strap between shoulder bell and shoulder strap out of nylon instead of elastic. But might this be better, since it supports the weight of the bell/bicep/forearm? Or will it be too restrictive movement-wise?

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

Personally, I find nylon a little restrictive, no give when you move, but see how you go.

[CloseTheBlastDoor]

Thanks!

 

And for the male snap on the shoulder strap, is it perfectly fine to add the usual through-snap instead of stitching it so it doesn't show on the top? Is this only an appearance thing, or would higher levels of approval want the stitched one (didn't see anything in the CRL, but just checking)?

 

And should I add two snaps to the shoulder strap like everywhere else?

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

1 hour ago, CloseTheBlastDoor said:

Thanks!

 

And for the male snap on the shoulder strap, is it perfectly fine to add the usual through-snap instead of stitching it so it doesn't show on the top? Is this only an appearance thing, or would higher levels of approval want the stitched one (didn't see anything in the CRL, but just checking)?

 

And should I add two snaps to the shoulder strap like everywhere else?

Yes usual way no need for stitching. Won't be seen from the outside and does not affect higher levels.

 

I use 2 per as one failed soon after I started trooping, have a spare gave me the ability to troop on  In saying that some only use one snap per on all their armor and have not had issues, it's just another precautionary thing.

[CloseTheBlastDoor]

Super! I don't know what I'd do without you! 

[CloseTheBlastDoor]

While I wait for the longer rivets to arrive, I'm returning to the ammo pack. As you recall, it was not a great pull, so I asked for a replacement. That came a little while ago. It's a pretty good color match. I clamped it in place, and just posting photos as a check (looks right from other references).
 

1. Lining up the 3rd rectangle of the ammo pack with the front cover strip of the right thigh.

 

2. Lining up (ish) the top edge of the ammo pack with the top edge of the thigh ridge on both sides (view from back of thigh).

 

3. Trimming the length of the ammo pack so at either end it is a few mm shy of its back corner ridge.
4. Rounding the lower corners of the ammo pack, using maybe a soup can (75mm diameter) as the reference. It could be tangent to the edges, or more abrupt in when it curves,  by preference.

 

Option 1:

 

Option 2:

 

5. Drilling the rivet holes in the ammo pack so vertically they bisect the ridge width (about 10mm), and come in maybe 10-15mm(?).

 

6. Using split rivets (with washers) like the ones originally intended for the ab-kidney connection. Paint the heads gloss white.
 

Questions:
-Does the vertical height of the ammo pack look good relative to the front of the thigh? Should I tape or glue it in place?
-Is it OK to not have the ammo pack in contact with the thigh everywhere as it makes its way around? Like this:

 

-Should I still heat-form the ammo pack if it is already flexible enough to go around?

-Should I fill in the gap in the front bottom of the thigh (see first pic)?

-The back of the thigh does not come together flush. It's just the way the pieces are molded. I am not sure how to fix that. Suggestions?

 

[TKSpartan[Staff]]

8 hours ago, CloseTheBlastDoor said:

While I wait for the longer rivets to arrive, I'm returning to the ammo pack. As you recall, it was not a great pull, so I asked for a replacement. That came a little while ago. It's a pretty good color match. I clamped it in place, and just posting photos as a check (looks right from other references).
 

1. Lining up the 3rd rectangle of the ammo pack with the front cover strip of the right thigh.

 

2. Lining up (ish) the top edge of the ammo pack with the top edge of the thigh ridge on both sides (view from back of thigh).

 

3. Trimming the length of the ammo pack so at either end it is a few mm shy of its back corner ridge.
4. Rounding the lower corners of the ammo pack, using maybe a soup can (75mm diameter) as the reference. It could be tangent to the edges, or more abrupt in when it curves,  by preference.

 

Option 1:

 

Option 2:

 

5. Drilling the rivet holes in the ammo pack so vertically they bisect the ridge width (about 10mm), and come in maybe 10-15mm(?).

 

6. Using split rivets (with washers) like the ones originally intended for the ab-kidney connection. Paint the heads gloss white.
 

Questions:
-Does the vertical height of the ammo pack look good relative to the front of the thigh? Should I tape or glue it in place?
-Is it OK to not have the ammo pack in contact with the thigh everywhere as it makes its way around? Like this:

 

-Should I still heat-form the ammo pack if it is already flexible enough to go around?

-Should I fill in the gap in the front bottom of the thigh (see first pic)?

-The back of the thigh does not come together flush. It's just the way the pieces are molded. I am not sure how to fix that. Suggestions?

 

 

 

 

Looking good Trooper.

 

About the correct alignment of the Ammo pack, bellow some references

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

for the back section gap you could use a piece of ABS glued behind and add some ABS paste and sand a little to give finish. The same applies for the front.

 

 

 

      

 

 

Keep it up

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

For anyone following you don't have to position the ammo strip completely central to the thigh, so don't panic if yours isn't, as you can see by these references 

 

Notes: 

1.  Please note that while the ammo packs of most most TKs were raised in the front and covered the front ridge, this is not a requirement for any level but is suggested,

 

                            

 

Rivet placement

[CloseTheBlastDoor]

Thanks, Mario and Glen!

 

I had seen that Billhag drawing before, but forgot!

 

If I use single cap instead of split rivets, are those the same as the ones I need to use for the ammo belt? Someone else in the forum referenced these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003AOQO4E , although it says "double cap" instead of single. Since one side does not show, I'll assume they are all good.

 

Glen, should I glue the ammo pack in place?

 

I did go ahead and trim the ammo pack, as well as glue in backing ABS strips to better align the bottoms of the thigh below the cover strips. Letting that cure.

 

[dblcross[TK]]

13 hours ago, CloseTheBlastDoor said:

Glen, should I glue the ammo pack in place?

I only glued mine at this one point to keep it from rotating down in the front at the red arrow.

[CloseTheBlastDoor]

3 hours ago, dblcross said:

I only glued mine at this one point to keep it from rotating down in the front at the red arrow.

 

Thank you, Terry! I'm going to do the same.

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I glued on the sides as well as the front as the front wasn't laying flat.

[CloseTheBlastDoor]

OK, I think the right thigh and ammo pack are pretty much done. Only need to paint the rivets and get the ABS paste going for smoothing out the back seam. I went with the split rivets, backing the heads with several layers of painter’s tape so they wouldn’t get too scuffed up on the anvil. But those things are pretty tough! 

 

Also, I went a little backwards in terms of shaping. I riveted in the ammo pack first, then moved it into position, then dunked the whole thing in boiling water. So it relaxed in place. Hopefully that will reduce any chance of stress fractures later.

 

Photos:

 

For gluing the ammo pack in place, I decided that I really didn’t have enough surface area between the pack (since it had the rectangular protrusion and the front of the thigh. So I formed a piece of ABS strip as a clip, and glued it in place:

 

I think this will be enough such that I don’t have to glue the sides, too. But time will tell. OK, now back to the ab-kidney work!

 

[dblcross[TK]]

On 5/17/2024 at 7:33 PM, CloseTheBlastDoor said:

These were the hardest to do if you ask me.

 

2 hours ago, CloseTheBlastDoor said:

I went with the split rivets, backing the heads with several layers of painter’s tape so they wouldn’t get too scuffed up on the anvil. But those things are pretty tough! 

 

[CloseTheBlastDoor]

I had a bit of an adventure finding the longer rivets for the ab-kidney stackup suggested by Glen. When I received them, it seemed as though I had them this whole time !

 

 

I glued in the kidney-side assemblies first:

 

Then hammered in the rivets and ensured that there was a fit on the ab side:

 

Then, did the ab side:

 

I feel like the insides are going to catch on my undersuit, so I’ll need to figure out how to cover them.

 

For the right side of the ab-kidney, I glued snap bases in place:

 

Luckily I’ve been on a diet, and it looks like the left and right sides close with minimal gap, whew! What a trooper endures to maintain a slender figure !

 

For the elastic, it seems like it would be especially hard to get my fingers under the right side and secure the snaps. Are there tricks for this? Also, what should I cover the rivets with on the inside?
 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I covered mine in silicon so they don't catch, I have seen others cover in gaffa tape.

 

This is one of the tricky areas, takes some practice but you should be able to get them on, I normally leave a loop of elastic on one end which helps give something to grab on to. 

[CloseTheBlastDoor]

3 hours ago, gmrhodes13 said:

I normally leave a loop of elastic on one end which helps give something to grab on to. 

Great idea!

[CloseTheBlastDoor]

For the right side ab-to-kidney connection, I came up with something that I think will work for me. I think I will have more trouble snapping the straps than releasing them. Holding everything in place while trying to do that will make it more difficult. So of the four snap connections crossing this boundary, I chose to make two of them with straps that are the width of a few fingers longer. I can snap these on first with relative ease. Then once those are holding, I can snap the as-measured straps (with loops) in, and I’m good.
 

 

Time will tell if this will hold reliably enough.

 

One question: In the CRL, for level 3, it states “A single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate is present.”  I found instructions for adding this (see part 4g of the comment):  

 

What is this snap used for? While I would be totally happy to get basic approval, I would someday want to shoot higher, and it just seems to make sense to address this while I’m working in this area. I would most likely need to move the upper snap plate on the ab.
 

[gmrhodes13[Staff]]

I find elastic is great for hard to get areas, gives you some slack when twisting your hand into that position.

 

Some use it as an extra connector but can just be cosmetic, called the "Han" snap, some references