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cjdesign

cjdesign's ESB "Pugman" Promo Blaster Build (DD/PP)

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Purchased a e-11 pipe promo kit from Phoenix Props a while ago and decided to finally start using the greeblies to create a Empire Strikes Back promo blaster (also know as the "Pugman").

 

The PP kit came with the aluminum pipe and various resin pieces for a full build, but I have both DDs & PPS kits at my disposal and want to choose the best parts for the build. Comparing my Doopy Doo's parts to Phoenix Props parts are night an day. The PP's are actual 100% accurate casts of sterlings.  Doopy doos parts come close but are "fortified" in curtain  areas eg stock arms, ammo recession, smaller receiver tube to be more durable and have more of a creative license.

 

The "pugman" blaster is a rough cast without much cleanup I though my doopy doo's body and grip would be better suited and save the aluminum pipe and other "PP's original casts" for a future replica build. Thanks to Phoenix Props in Germany for making a great "promo kit."

 

Here is my reference for the pugman style blaster:

 

article-2143371-130DC50C000005DC-927_964

 

ESB_Blaster_1_zpsbea9rez8.png

 

ESB_Blasters_2_zpsglltnti5.png


 

Edited by cjdesign

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The first step was to remove the details from the front muzzle

 

Before:

IMG_5288_zpsttyuhbqa.jpg

 

After:

e144e11f-7cd3-45c4-9c40-f2512ed3275d_zps

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All of the original holes and gaps are filled in on this style of blaster.

I had this stuff in the garage left over from a car restoration and it should work perfect as a filler putty. You can use water to smooth it out before it cures, so minimal sanding is required.  In some case I want to match the original non sanded rough surface of the "pugman"

 

4b71922f-98c8-4825-b54e-ee77f066c643_zps

 

Edited by cjdesign

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Fill in the side of the front with Por15 and sand smooth (but since this a rough pugman, not too smooth)

 

IMG_5293_zpsojyf7x6o.jpg

 

d8fd19c4-c18f-4e5e-a60d-fb86937172df_zps

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Small T-Track:

 

There a small t-track that bridges the gap or holes on the bottom side of the blaster. The t-track greeblie that was included in the PP kit did not fill all the holes, it was too small by 50%.  

I had an extra t-track from previous build, so I measured the dds opening (hole to hole) and added approximately 3/8 for bend and melt factor on each side. sanding down the sides and top. glue with CA glue or similar glue.  

 

IMG_5294_zpshwct3hat.jpg

 

IMG_5295_zpslisqqznk.jpg

 

IMG_5296_zpsrfimmfj2.jpg

 

CA Glue:

IMG_5301_zps3o6hyiyd.jpg

 

Final Glued T-track:

IMG_5298_zpsf8kqguha.jpg

Edited by cjdesign

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Following. I love a good blaster build. :-)

  • Like 1

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Yep, looks very interesting. Following... :)

 

Wouldn't a rubber blaster be a better base for this project? Thought the Pugman was a solid rubber casting with additional greeblies?!

Good thing you seem to have a lot of that POR15, as it will be required to fill the areas below the scope rail, between folding stock and receiver tube, inside the channel for the charging lever and behind the trigger. Can't wait to see this build going on... :duim:

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5 hours ago, T-Jay said:

Yep, looks very interesting. Following... :)

 

Wouldn't a rubber blaster be a better base for this project? Thought the Pugman was a solid rubber casting with additional greeblies?!

Good thing you seem to have a lot of that POR15, as it will be required to fill the areas below the scope rail, between folding stock and receiver tube, inside the channel for the charging lever and behind the trigger. Can't wait to see this build going on... :duim:

That's a great question. I don't think I've read what the base material was made from. I assumed it would be cast resin, like the RS Propmasters version. I already have a hyperfirm blaster for trooping and the dds kit is less expensive. The alum pipe was out of the question for sure. I used the POR15 15 years ago during a car restoration with some rust spots. It's a two part putty like green stuff, but has some great properties, like being able to use water to smooth out prior to curing, and there's a lot of product to work with.

 

IMG_5313_zpshtxhlpwg.jpg

Edited by cjdesign

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In order to fill the holes in the DDs body I had to insert a 1/2 PVC pipe to act as a backstop for my filler. The pipe was glued in place with CA glue.

 

IMG_5304_zpsoyxtgfnu.jpg

 

IMG_5306_zpsrusnmbxt.jpg

 

IMG_5307_zpsvmngtiuu.jpg

 

IMG_5308_zpsdt7yv3mj.jpg

Edited by cjdesign

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Adding Filler:

 

Once the pipe was inserted. I glued the grip with CA glue and started filling the holes with epoxy putty.

 

IMG_5309_zpsvvj1rcpy.jpg

 

IMG_5311_zpszwnrs9hl.jpg

 

IMG_5312_zpsqabtfltq.jpg

 

IMG_5325_zpslq3uuvvw.jpg

 

IMG_5329_zpslajnx2se.jpg

 

IMG_5331_zps4acjwzwr.jpg

 

Smooth with water:

IMG_5332_zpses5uctjw.jpg

 

IMG_5333_zpsyiuy24bq.jpg

 

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Usually we see people drill all the holes in the DoopyDoo's kit. Crazy to see you filling them - but totally accurate for this project. Looking good so far...

 

Did you notice the position of the "LOCK-FREE screw" in the grip? Seems like they made a new mold, as earlier kits had a different position. One thing less for you to correct. ;)

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Light Sanding with wet/dry:

 

IMG_5334_zps93bzjegh.jpg

 

IMG_5336_zpsmmsvi4nx.jpg

 

 

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I'm noticing the PP grebblies are not 100% actual to the ref. images above. This piece could have been longer in comparison, but still ok for this project because DDs is smaller then actual Sterling SMG. I glued this grebblie with CA glue angled down and parallel to the ejector port. I didn't want the stock forks to cover and overlap the greeblie.

 

IMG_5342_zpswmsz0hry.jpg

 

 

Sanding before gluing....

 

IMG_5348_zpstwtvynam.jpg

Edited by cjdesign

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10 hours ago, T-Jay said:

Usually we see people drill all the holes in the DoopyDoo's kit. Crazy to see you filling them - but totally accurate for this project. Looking good so far...

 

Did you notice the position of the "LOCK-FREE screw" in the grip? Seems like they made a new mold, as earlier kits had a different position. One thing less for you to correct. ;)

That's right. The date on the grip reads "Doopy's 2013" i drilled out my last dds grip for a real pin, but I do remember it being in the FREE position. 

Edited by cjdesign

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Top Rail:

 

Initial fit of the PP top rail. it's flat so using the alum pipe that came with the kit as a sanding block to curve the bottom of the rail. Although the pipe and dds body are difference circumference. This method still gets me closer. the gap will get filled with putty.

 

IMG_5347_zpsvjf6vhzv.jpg

 

IMG_5345_zpsvu3fjvud.jpg

 

Note: Not sanding over kitchen sink. this is the best light in my house to take photos. LOL

Edited by cjdesign

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Using E6000 to glue the top rail to the body. 

 

IMG_5349_zpstnsn5pkm.jpg

 

I used a liberal amount glue and let ooze out of the sides.
IMG_5350_zpszmj6i01a.jpg

 

IMG_5351_zpsdyvsjy50.jpg

 

 

set min 12 hours

IMG_5352_zpslyfaz6gi.jpg

 

Once dried, I removed the excess e6000 glue by peeling off in one piece. x-acto/utility knife bmay be required to remove all glue.

Edited by cjdesign

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Glue Back Cap with CA glue.

 

IMG_5344_zps1kgnugoq.jpg

Edited by cjdesign

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Fill The Scope Rail:

 

IMG_5359_zpsd5lqdt5e.jpg

 

IMG_5408_zpslevft5yv.jpg

 

 

Edited by cjdesign

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Fill in grip pin hole:

 

According the ref images the round end of the gip pin is filled in with a small dot protruding out from the center. I searched my pen cup and found something they may work to replicate this.

 

Fill flat...

IMG_5362_zps4tznrwmn.jpg

 

IMG_5363_zpsn5j2acxr.jpg

 

Smooth out...

 

IMG_5364_zpsxxxptwbv.jpg

 

 

 

 

IMG_5374_zps1y7tyn97.jpg

 

IMG_5373_zps5qegfmar.jpg

Edited by cjdesign

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the original screen used "Pugman" didn't have any machine gun markings, but I'm keeping them intact and adding my TK number as well. I love this mod.

 

IMG_5353_zpsjcgoim6k.jpg

 

IMG_5354_zpspp1vvwbb.jpg

 

IMG_5356_zpscyfos7qt.jpg

Edited by cjdesign

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Remove Ejector: 

I used my Dremal with cutting disc to remove the injector pin.

 

IMG_5357_zpsmtzn1a2m.jpg

 

IMG_5358_zps3rc2otkl.jpg

Edited by cjdesign

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Secure Stock:

The stock was glued to the body with CA glue and then screwed together.

 

IMG_5416_zps6qzbvx5e.jpg

 

IMG_5417_zpsomtkjgeo.jpg

 

 

Secure Grip:

 

IMG_5418_zpsygz9fyzu.jpg

 

IMG_5421_zpsvgvvnbg6.jpg

 

 

 

Fill

IMG_5422_zpsgcolfxq6.jpg

 

Edited by cjdesign

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14 hours ago, cjdesign said:

IMG_5356_zpscyfos7qt.jpg

Loving this :D;)

  • Like 1

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Ammo Cartridge:

I'm using the PP ammo mag that came with the pipe kit. The part was damaged in transit and needed extensive cleanup, but since this build is not clean and perfect it will due nicely as is. I noticed the mag on the "pugman"  is only long enough to accomodate the retention clip on the size. Need to cut the mag to length and remove the clip.

 

IMG_5376_zps8rfksdxo.jpg

 

IMG_5377_zpsvcvpagwa.jpg

 

Cut:

IMG_5380_zpsogajepeo.jpg

 

 

Sand flush:

IMG_5387_zpstvgilllq.jpg

 

sand the base at an angle

IMG_5388_zpsgdp2t0nv.jpg

 

remove the bottom material from the clip standing flush.

IMG_5390_zpsw3qjwyvi.jpg

 

Glue and fit:

 

IMG_5391_zpsqljpdd3d.jpg

 

I glued the mag with e6000.

 

IMG_5396_zpsvdbnffvw.jpg

 

Final Fit:

 

IMG_5394_zps7cqkkhri.jpg

 

Edited by cjdesign

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Trigger switch

 

Hard to see how this part is attached in the reference photos above. I don't see the round base per the real sterling switch, so i will just remove it and glue the switch the top of the handgrip with a small gap in between.

 

IMG_5458_zpskmblpmuw.jpg

 

IMG_5459_zpspcpg9sr4.jpg

 

IMG_5460_zpsaorcvcl6.jpg

 

Glue in place with CA glue.

 

IMG_5461_zpsxjjhogfc.jpg

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