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SgtGarand

Blaster Master E-11 Build (With Pics)

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I got my blaster kit today and thought I'd share it's progress during the build. Will try my best considering my work schedule, but I'm sure it won't take me too long since I'll need it to eventually go for Centurion.

 

I'm not sure if he has a website for the kits, other than eBay. But you can check out his demo video here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QJbuJFXcrrM&t=14s

The online instructions for the building of this kit is found here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/snajmo4wxtklq9w/UBER BLASTER KIT INSTRUCTIONS.pdf?dl=0

 

For tools, I have pliers, exacto knife, metal needle files, gorilla brand super glue, and varying grits of sandpaper.

 

I first looked over everything once I got it back home and out of the box. The receiver section isn't shown because i had already started the assembly before thinking of taking pictures. lol

wmEZ3zE.jpg

 

 

The two sections joined and the supports in the bolt channel removed and sanded down.

KroglVE.jpg

 

While i waited for the glue time to dry, I spent some time on some parts in the next steps. Cleaned up the mag well and release button and set them aside for now.

1FaPVVu.jpg

 

I then started to clean up the other barrel section, making sure i hit the inside areas the best i could. Since I am going to include the electronics I needed to sand out the inside of the barrel itself so the LED assembly can be installed inside as easily as possible. Testing with the LED holders until they slide through completely.

 

AGG3KcZ.jpg

 

1FiAFNI.jpg

 

Before attaching the barrel section, I noticed the tab had broken off during shipping. It was an easy fix to glue back in place before joining the two parts together. Sitting them to the side to let the glue dry before removing the tabs with pliers and an exacto knife. For me the pliers worked well enough on their own and the knife was used to scrape off any excess glue or plastic bits from the tabs and from the 3D printing.

 

Ak40mv7.jpg

 

8ySGbNK.jpg

 

Give it a quick sanding to smooth out the edges from joining the sections together and to begin smoothing out the surface the best I can. I never worked with 3D printed items before but it definitely requires a lot of sanding for each part to get a somewhat smooth and uniform surface. I will most likely do the best I can and hit it with a coat of primer before paint to hopefully fill in some of the imperfections of the surface.

 

vRhwmVr.jpg

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Well after I posted I decided to switch over to the electronics. Took a few hours to do as I tried to follow along with the videos and make sure I didn't mess anything up.

Thankfully everything worked as it was suppose to.

 

Pew

Leu1j3A.jpg

 

Set to stun

wmGncFp.jpg

 

 

Back to the build. I started today by cleaning up the holes in the barrel shroud. Some of them came out oddly shaped from the printing so unless I made them even larger it was impossible to get them perfectly round. I started sanding by hand but wrapping some sanding paper around a drill bit made quick work of what was turning into a tedious process.

 

t20kvBp.jpg

 

I installed the magazine well onto the side of the receiver then moved onto the magazine itself. The magazine latch assembled pretty easily. I made sure to reinforce the inside since you're bending the plastic when you install or remove it from the well. It snaps in quite securely which is nice.

 

Wh5Mlac.jpg

 

jBD5wx0.jpg

 

Moving onto the sights; I ran into a bit of a mishap when the front cover broke in two while removed the plastic filler. I sanded down all the parts before gluing them back together.

 

2MPPloK.jpg

 

The front sight post is an easy enough piece to glue on. The instructions mention using a dremel to cut a groove in the bottom sides to match the actual prop. Since I dont have a dremel i used my exacto and some files to get the same affect.

 

yq8WrNb.jpg

 

I placed some sandpaper against the shroud and slowly sanded the sight cover to create the same curve for a smoother fit before gluing in place.

 

hkJHgdk.jpg

 

TG5ml8h.jpg

 

The rear sight was also a rather easy assembly. Much of the time spent on each step is sanding and getting the plastic as smooth as possible.  When removing the filler from the bottom its easy to mistake the small post as part of the plastic to remove. This is needed when gluing on top of the receiver.

 

QEy6dHQ.jpg

 

Having the file set really is coming in handy and made it nice and easy to clean up the grooves and make the edges look more crisp. The flip sight needed to be sanded down quite a bit in order to fit. I made sure to align the edges with the small circles on each side; normally where a pin or screw would be to allow you to flip between the two sight apertures.

 

xpwQuyW.jpg

 

As I glued it into place i made sure to try and align it with the front sight before the glue set. Usually only giving me a few seconds at most before it wants to stay in place.

 

Efb13NP.jpg

 

Sanded down the two guards and the small post on the opposite side and installed those in place. For the guards I used the same technique to sand the mating surface to the same curve of the receiver/barrel before I glued in place. Gives a nice, flush finish.

 

AVQSCkB.jpg

 

I gathered up the next handful of parts to begin sanding: end cap and ring, release clip, bolt, and muzzle tip.

 

IAHHtGP.jpg

 

AGo2Os2.jpg

 

rHyL0do.jpg

 

The end caps took quite a bit of work. The notch in the receiver end was much smaller than the one on the ring. My flat file was pretty close to a perfect match and made it easy to measure when the notch was the size it needed to be. It still took some fine tuning to get the ring to fit onto the end. I managed to get it to a snug fit before gluing in place.

 

I985cAC.jpg

 

jr5Uv0V.jpg

 

oW2dMqx.jpg

 

I also filed down some of the material in the "J" sections which are used to lock on the end cap. I wanted to give the tabs more plastic to catch on since it will be under heavier spring pressure when pulling the bolt back. Mostly when showing off how cool your blaster is. ;)

Once the glue had dried for the ring, I installed the clip on the small flat cut out, making sure it was straight before the glue set.

 

XB7ovqx.jpg

 

The bolt was a bit tricky to fit in place as well. The two "rails" inside the receiver are a bit of a pain to reach once you glue the sections together. In hindsight I should have sanded it all down first. Oh well. I still managed to roll up some sand paper and get my fingers in the cut outs and sand along the inner areas. Sanding along the back side of the bolt was also needed. Once it could slide in place I dropped the spring in behind it.

 

BVI64XL.jpg

 

Gave the inside of the cap a quick sand to remove the small bits of excess plastic and smooth the surface. Slide on and then turn to install. The spring pushes it back into the hooked area.

 

hbBpRTW.jpg

 

EHIgCNg.jpg

 

Since I already test fitted the LEDs, I next installed the muzzle tip. Using a round file to open the holes on the back side, until they matched the ones in the cover. This is to make it easier to install the two hex screws. (after paint)

 

UrR01NH.jpg

 

TMydOik.jpg

 

Edited by SgtGarand
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Well after I posted I decided to switch over to the electronics. Took a few hours to do as I tried to follow along with the videos and make sure I didn't mess anything up.
Thankfully everything worked as it was suppose to.
 
Pew
Leu1j3A.jpg
 
Set to stun
wmGncFp.jpg
 
 
Back to the build. I started today by cleaning up the holes in the barrel shroud. Some of them came out oddly shaped from the printing so unless I made them even larger it was impossible to get them perfectly round. I started sanding by hand but wrapping some sanding paper around a drill bit made quick work of what was turning into a tedious process.
 
t20kvBp.jpg
 
I installed the magazine well onto the side of the receiver then moved onto the magazine itself. The magazine latch assembled pretty easily. I made sure to reinforce the inside since you're bending the plastic when you install or remove it from the well. It snaps in quite securely which is nice.
 
Wh5Mlac.jpg
 
jBD5wx0.jpg
 
Moving onto the sights; I ran into a bit of a mishap when the front cover broke in two while removed the plastic filler. I sanded down all the parts before gluing them back together.
 
2MPPloK.jpg
 
The front sight post is an easy enough piece to glue on. The instructions mention using a dremel to cut a groove in the bottom sides to match the actual prop. Since I dont have a dremel i used my exacto and some files to get the same affect.
 
yq8WrNb.jpg
 
I placed some sandpaper against the shroud and slowly sanded the sight cover to create the same curve for a smoother fit before gluing in place.
 
hkJHgdk.jpg
 
TG5ml8h.jpg
 
The rear sight was also a rather easy assembly. Much of the time spent on each step is sanding and getting the plastic as smooth as possible.  When removing the filler from the bottom its easy to mistake the small post as part of the plastic to remove. This is needed when gluing on top of the receiver.
 
QEy6dHQ.jpg
 
Having the file set really is coming in handy and made it nice and easy to clean up the grooves and make the edges look more crisp. The flip sight needed to be sanded down quite a bit in order to fit. I made sure to align the edges with the small circles on each side; normally where a pin or screw would be to allow you to flip between the two sight apertures.
 
xpwQuyW.jpg
 
As I glued it into place i made sure to try and align it with the front sight before the glue set. Usually only giving me a few seconds at most before it wants to stay in place.
 
Efb13NP.jpg
 
Sanded down the two guards and the small post on the opposite side and installed those in place. For the guards I used the same technique to sand the mating surface to the same curve of the receiver/barrel before I glued in place. Gives a nice, flush finish.
 
AVQSCkB.jpg
 
I gathered up the next handful of parts to begin sanding: end cap and ring, release clip, bolt, and muzzle tip.
 
IAHHtGP.jpg
 
AGo2Os2.jpg
 
rHyL0do.jpg
 
The end caps took quite a bit of work. The notch in the receiver end was much smaller than the one on the ring. My flat file was pretty close to a perfect match and made it easy to measure when the notch was the size it needed to be. It still took some fine tuning to get the ring to fit onto the end. I managed to get it to a snug fit before gluing in place.
 
I985cAC.jpg
 
jr5Uv0V.jpg
 
oW2dMqx.jpg
 
I also filed down some of the material in the "J" sections which are used to lock on the end cap. I wanted to give the tabs more plastic to catch on since it will be under heavier spring pressure when pulling the bolt back. Mostly when showing off how cool your blaster is. 
Once the glue had dried for the ring, I installed the clip on the small flat cut out, making sure it was straight before the glue set.
 
XB7ovqx.jpg
 
The bolt was a bit tricky to fit in place as well. The two "rails" inside the receiver are a bit of a pain to reach once you glue the sections together. In hindsight I should have sanded it all down first. Oh well. I still managed to roll up some sand paper and get my fingers in the cut outs and sand along the inner areas. Sanding along the back side of the bolt was also needed. Once it could slide in place I dropped the spring in behind it.
 
BVI64XL.jpg
 
Gave the inside of the cap a quick sand to remove the small bits of excess plastic and smooth the surface. Slide on and then turn to install. The spring pushes it back into the hooked area.
 
hbBpRTW.jpg
 
EHIgCNg.jpg
 
Since I already test fitted the LEDs, I next installed the muzzle tip. Using a round file to open the holes on the back side, until they matched the ones in the cover. This is to make it easier to install the two hex screws. (after paint)
 
UrR01NH.jpg
 
TMydOik.jpg
 
Good kit, who and where did you buy this kit?
I'ts a very good kit!
How much is it?


Enviado desde mi Redmi Note 4 mediante Tapatalk

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Progress has been slower during the week due to work, but I've still worked on it little by little each day.

The d-ring assembly is easy and I didn't experience any problems with it.

 

DzYaHHF.jpg

 

Filled in several gaps with the modeling putty, then installed the d-ring assembly

 

uHUZQDs.jpg

Quick coat of primer

YUB2kXg.jpg

 

My next set of parts was for the folding stock. I didn't think to take photos of them during the sanding and assembly of the stock pieces, but it only required some slight sanding to fit. Filled in gaps with putty, then primed and sanded smooth again.

 

IHmsZ3A.jpg

 

The parts got a wash and then painted the next day once they were dry. I gave several light coats, letting each coat dry before applying another.

 

wL7zjzF.jpg

 

The list of remaining parts is getting smaller now. Sanding down the scope parts, trigger group, pistol grip, and power cells. The grip and scope parts didn't give me any issues.

 

jgsoy73.jpg

 

xls4BlQ.jpg

 

SoseQxB.jpg

 

zIFgamW.jpg

 

Printed out the scope reticles provided in the instructions, then laminated them.

 

zHjMQwP.jpg

 

When sanding down the two halves of the trigger group, the two small plastic posts broke. The ones within the lettering for the selector switch. unable to find the pieces themselves, I made new ones using a toothpick of all things. sanding down the post to shape, cutting off a piece, then gluing in place. Once dry I sanded it down flush. I chose not to use primer so the lettering wouldn't be filled in and decided to go straight for paint after cleaning the parts to remove any remaining dust. I also opted to carve/sand out the recess for the selector switch. I will also paint that area silver, as per instructions and reference pics.

 

LVoInO2.jpg

 

Next up was the power cells. These are the last parts needed to be glued to the main body before I can paint it. These were trickier to sand smooth. I had to make use of the files to get into some of the tighter spaces, but didn't spend too much time on those areas since they won't be seen. For the caps, I had one of the posts break off, again, as soon as i used my exacto to trim off some excess plastic. The small piece was quickly lost in time and space; so I made a new one using the same toothpick as before. Once it was dry and sanded how I wanted it, it got a coat of primer and another light sanding.

 

r0WIgzG.jpg

 

Dp3o16h.jpg

 

3Mwrve5.jpg

 

Removed any primer from the area on the magazine well and then glued on the power cells. The instructions are unclear to an exact location so I used difference reference pictures to put it in a general area. Not letting the 'support beam' edge hang over, keeping distance from the main body so it doesn't interfere with the scope rail, and still allow access to the magazine release pin/button.

 

2PUnUrn.jpg

 

NjMnax1.jpg

 

Assembly of the Hengstler counter

 

eHO9Rvw.jpg

 

BLlS8hk.jpg

 

KgX0qVG.jpg

 

QRTTdnH.jpg

 

0Snx02G.jpg

 

Final parts added and hit with some paint before spraying

 

ERynZxx.jpg

Edited by SgtGarand
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Been busy with work and haven't been able to post any updates.  Now in the painting and weathering stage for many of the parts.

 

CvwIdhd.jpg

 

fxvkQlm.jpg

 

nsIMIKA.jpg

 

s5oL6Br.jpg

 

KDB5mQ7.jpg

 

0pb2SsX.jpg

 

JpU1FjT.jpg

 

EGmZyaB.jpg

 

JmBbgM0.jpg

 

MG1hZkp.jpg

 

1BLzkqB.jpg

 

Hand brushed the harder to reach areas

1No0CVp.jpg

 

fNepoTW.jpg

 

Had some mesh to add

 

R7zUQ9B.jpg

 

First coats

 

gxuHJwB.jpg

 

hP24w6Y.jpg

 

Stock assembled

 

77oN44g.jpg

 

W2C31Qi.jpg

 

LMmhNCX.jpg

 

Scope glued onto the rail

 

fvE9IYx.jpg

 

Edited by SgtGarand
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Thanks! I'm slowly getting closer to the end. Finished sanding the counter pieces and assembling the unit. Just need to paint remaining small parts and give it a clear coat.

 

I tried to click the link but tells me the page is not available

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Thanks! I'm slowly getting closer to the end. Finished sanding the counter pieces and assembling the unit. Just need to paint remaining small parts and give it a clear coat.
 
I tried to click the link but tells me the page is not available
Oh that's odd. You can go to the main page facebook.com/trooperamp and look at the recent posts bud, it's about 3 down I think.

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That's actually pretty neat. Unfortunately I'd have to pull it off the rail and break my scope apart if I were to get one.

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Home stretch and completion post!

 

Starting with the fit of the electronic components

rB3Hu6F.jpg

 

zLgngWI.jpg

 

cX1cYM1.jpg

 

Battery fit test

gyApgyM.jpg

 

Once everything fit, the trigger group was glued in place. I started gluing on the t-tracks that I painted with a rubberized undercoat paint.

Yta1C1A.jpg

 

The pistol grip soon followed. I'm using a 2 part plastic epoxy for these parts since it will support the rest of the blaster and will need to hold up to the use.

62izBp2.jpg

 

While i sat the body aside, I began to work on the counter and rail mounts. First attaching the mounts to the rail and then glued on the counter.

1JfX4K0.jpg

 

Op43h8i.jpg

 

After attaching the rail to the body, I began fitting the coils. Instead of using the supplied plastic coils, I had some wire from my chainmail project that was the same thickness and already coiled. Took a bit of time to bend the ends to shape but overall a secure enough fit that I decided not to use glue. Added on a few layers of paint and done.

Dka6663.jpg

 

zebdbSW.jpg

 

Glued the hex screws in place and weathered

ztIXP8b.jpg

 

Finally I attached the stock and completed the build. :stormtrooper:

 

jgImMNy.jpg

 

Tj25Adf.jpg

(will add numbers when I can get a TK number)

S5U5BcH.jpg

 

4msXwX5.jpg

 

EPpRx49.jpg

 

xsjONdE.jpg

 

 

 

 

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Home stretch and completion post!
 
... Once everything fit, the trigger group was glued in place. I started gluing on the t-tracks that I painted with a rubberized undercoat paint.

Yta1C1A.jpg
 
The pistol grip soon followed. I'm using a 2 part plastic epoxy for these parts since it will support the rest of the blaster and will need to hold up to the use.

62izBp2.jpg

 ...



Superb work on your blaster, well done. Electronics to boot as well, always a nice touch to take it to that level. I am curious to know what rubberized undercoat paint you used for the T- tracks as it will be helpful for me when I get to that part of my doopy build. Also, if you don't mind sharing, the two part plastic epoxy used for the pistol grip. Cheers, and congrats once again!

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Thanks!

For the tracks I used a Rustoleum brand undercoating. And I forget the exact epoxy brand. Just found one that was for plastic. E6000 could have worked too if I had some at the time.

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2 hours ago, SgtGarand said:

Thanks!

For the tracks I used a Rustoleum brand undercoating. And I forget the exact epoxy brand. Just found one that was for plastic. E6000 could have worked too if I had some at the time.

Great! Thanks for that tid-bit of information, every little helps. I'll stick with E-6000 as I already have that. As I've gained momentum on researching paints, I've come to conclude as well that Rustoleum is a good brand. Now you've further confirmed it, cheers!

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Nice!  I really like how the paint job worked out.  Can I ask what paint you used and how you did your weathering?

CvwIdhd.jpg

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I used a rustoleum brand spray paint. i chose to go with a satin finish overall to keep with a metallic look and then for weathering i used a silver model paint (such as Testors) with a dry brushing technique, except for areas i wanted to show more wear. 

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Interesting, is it possible to insert this electronic sistem  in doopydoos blaster?

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On 10/20/2019 at 12:33 PM, Grand Design said:

Can this blaster still be bought ? 

 

Ray released his model on thingiverse before he retired. I think it is still there.

 

If you have a printer or find find someone to do a print for you.

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