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HOWTO: Shoretrooper Helmet Painting Tutorial. By Paul Prentice (tutorial on page 6)

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The screen accurate JSP chin cup arrived. I am satisfied there is no way the red/white/blue elastic strap that comes with the cup was used for the screen used buckets. It's too narrow and the weave is wrong. I have opted for the 19mm black polypropylene webbing. I painted the cup with Halfords matt black, threaded the webbing through, utilised a couple of metal sliders from an old Swedish army back pack and attached these to the metal d-rings I have already fastened into the helmet each side. I23561780_538681873145668_562212500450049














Image from a screen used display.


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Ok. I am using Facebook as the image hosting site for my thread. I have just noticed that some of the images are missing from the thread AGAIN!! Photo bucket messed it up first time around and now this is the second time FB has done this and it takes too much time repairing it over and over. I am leaving this thread alone now as its too much work to keep fixing. All my info on this tutorial and ST build is here www.facebook.com/totalgrunt

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Guest Dominick

Hello Paul, this is not related to this topic but I recently bought a 1/6 Ed Norton American History X figure they said it was painted by you, do recall doing any of those sculpts. Also did you make the sculpt? Thanks for your time

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On 04/02/2018 at 2:15 AM, bradberry00 said:

For anyone looking for the brown in a Spray Paint form factor, I tested nearly every widely available brown against the Vallejo "Dark Rust" suggested by Paul. Rustoleum Satin Espresso is a nearly exact match.

Thats very useful information thank you.

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On 06/02/2018 at 12:17 AM, Guest Dominick said:

Hello Paul, this is not related to this topic but I recently bought a 1/6 Ed Norton American History X figure they said it was painted by you, do recall doing any of those sculpts. Also did you make the sculpt? Thanks for your time

Hello. I do not sculpt the 1/6th heads. I do paint 1/6th scale heads however I have most definitely never painted an Ed Norton sculpt so that work would not be mine.

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  • 7 months later...

I have carefully removed the forehead, snout and lens of the Anovos helmet to make painting a little bit more easier.

I have sanded back the previous paint application with sanding blocks.8liJHq8.jpg


Starting off with a grey primer.yDk0bKn.jpg


For the brown this time around I am using Halfords Ford Rio Brown. 

As we know the texture was applied using the beige so the rio brown needs to be flat and smooth to repicate the dark brown resin that the ST armour was cast in and is visible showing through from underneath the beige in a lot of reference pictures.Rdq3IVS.jpg


There are some parts of the ST helmet that appear not to be textured so I carefully mask the following areas.
Forehead rim.
Notches on the cheeks.
Heat sinks.
Bands on the temple.
Neck ring.
Vents on the rear and 2 longer vents at lower rear.
Small ovals on each ear.
Vent inside each ear.
Recessed detail above lens under forehead.

Note that I have used torn masking tape to recreate the paint damaged effect seen immediately above the blast shield rims of the Screen used helmets.


I use liquid mask in some parts where its tricky to get tape positioned.FX0AUap.jpg


Once all the areas are masked I use a clear lacquer to gloss the dark brown.Ag9WDN7.jpg


When the gloss lacquer is dry the areas where I want the paint flakes to appear are masked using Humbrol masking fluid.7KnaRQ3.jpg


For personal preference I have painted these harder to hit places first with sahara beige straight from the can just to get some proper coverage on them before I start with the texture.



From a reliable source I was informed the texture of the ST helmets was applied through a paint gun. The paint was colour matched to the Montana Gold Sahara Beige then somehow I suspect using the settings on the gun the paint was allowed to be texturised. 

I want to try and mimic that process without using off the shelf texture paints.

These Montana paints are used for graffiti and already the pressure is low when the paint is dispensed. I have switched out the standard nozzle for another that will splatter the paint. I want it to drizzle from the nozzle and not to be too atomised when it leaves the can.JhFabrr.jpg


You can see how the paint is laying. I will build up the layers trying to keep them even despite the low pressure and tricky nozzle wanting to flood areas. It is a messy process but effective.ohxovNC.jpg


You can see the texture is soft and not gritty.WqQaiTS.jpg



I do not want a gritty or coarse finish. The texture should be loose to allow the muck to sit in it correctly when I start to weather it.VE8lBrx.jpg


Once the beige is dry I can get the emblem on the forehead.




The horizontal lines of the cut out in the emblem should sit at the same angle as the horizontal bands on the side of the helmet. These are good guides for achieving the correct orientation of the emblem.













I remove the rest of the masking tape and fluid then paint the black details in.





The snout, lens and forehead can be put back.LaqQM8B.jpg


These are the tools I use for weathering/ageing the helmet. I do not want to fiddle too much however I want a lot of muck and damage on the bucket whilst keeping the marks true to what is seen on the displayed costumes.



The muck sits in the recesses of the textured paint.6Jdl0hK.jpg


A variety of mark making around the bucket will give an authentic appearance.

40 grit sandpaper by hand and belt sander will tear away paint to create the scuff marks and the masked areas once peeled will reveal the paint chips.kvZdd79.jpg


A comparrison picture of the my finished helmet on the left and the screen used on the right.y0VR3Mo.png


It is a much more accurate paint app than my previous attempt so I am happier with it.2u6TY1G.jpg



The texture is a lot softer than beofre and the weathering is applied with confodence using broad strokes I hope achieveing a more convincing dirty look rather than a painted one.



Edited by mr paul
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