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Need Help With Extending Thighs and Waste Extensions


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Hi family,

 

I have tried the search engine to no avail (not sure what I am doing wrong) - so sorry for posting this as it has most likely been dealt with before.

 

I received my SDS armor yesterday and it is obviously not made for the larger and broader trooper. My thighs don't fit and I definitely need to add a pvc plate to connect the back and front plates.

 

Does anyone know where I can find a tutorial on how to do this (i.e. adding pvc pieces, how to measure, and similar)? I am a complete noob and afraid to mess up the armor.

Gracias amigos!

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Hola Thomas,

 

Here's the link as mention by Tony.

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/26001-haribon72s-anh-stormtrooper-ne-hero-build/?p=484000

 

Here's the sample pics that can help.   Let us know how it goes mi hermano!

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Edited by gmrhodes13
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If you're wondering if "shimmed thighs and kidney plates" are approved for Basic, Expert Infantry, and Centurion, they answer is yes!   

 

This is how I covered the gaps in between the thigh armor and custom shims.    I used Apoxie Sculpt because its non-toxic and easier to work with (remember to wear gloves).   All you need is  water in a spray bottle to keep it moist as your working the compound into the gaps.    Be sure not to use too much water.   Just keep it moist like clay or joint compound (like sheet rock work).    Allow to dry overnight and then sand down the area to a finished and smooth look and feel.     I used various sand paper to smooth out the rough surfaces left from the dried Apoxie Sculpt.

 

Please note:  You only have to cover up the outside finish of the thighs to make look like one piece.   No cover up work required for the inside of the thighs.

 

You can use automotive bondo, ABS paste, or other compounds.   Its totally up to you and your comfort level.    Always remember to follow the manufacturer's information on use, handling, clean up, and safety concerns.

 

Now, the primer and spray paint will be your greatest challenge.     Since my NE kit is glossy white, I was able to use an all in one primer and paint - Rustoleum glossy white.    

I would suggest bringing your thigh armor to your local paint or hardware store and asking an experienced associate on color matching.   Good Luck and let me know your project turns out.  

 

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Edited by gmrhodes13
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Much easier than working with Bondo is using shims cut from the same material stock (so a perfect color match) plus ABS paste. Then you don't have to paint. Just cut a shim of the appropriate shape, glue in a backplate to attach it, and use ABS paste to fill in the seams. A couple rounds of sanding and polishing and it looks like it was built like that.

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So are these three pieces? One large V shape piece for the center, and then 2 smaller pieces on the front? Or just the large V cemented to a back plate (which is what you see from the front?

My main concern is when sanding down the gaps filled in with ABS cement, I will scratch the original thigh piece. I have an SDS armor so I can't repaint as I would have to paint the whole thing :(

Example from local garrison with no backplate, but I can't see the detail of how they sanded to make it look good.

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The way the kidney shims are done in the post is the way I had been told to do it, but I can see you have added a big red message on each of the pictures stating that this shimming is no longer acceptable - any idea about that? Wouldn't want to put in the work and get my application pushed back!

Gracias Walter!

Edited by TOMALFORD
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So are these three pieces? One large V shape piece for the center, and then 2 smaller pieces on the front? Or just the large V cemented to a back plate (which is what you see from the front?

 

My main concern is when sanding down the gaps filled in with ABS cement, I will scratch the original thigh piece. I have an SDS armor so I can't repaint as I would have to paint the whole thing :(

 

Example from local garrison with no backplate, but I can't see the detail of how they sanded to make it look good.

You're going to need to be able to sand any sort of thigh shim in order to smooth the new seam and blend it with the original plastic. Is your entire suit painted, and you don't have matching paint? If you use ABS paste made from the same plastic as the main armor, you should have a perfect color match. No painting needed, you just need ABS paste and lot of elbow work to smooth and polish. You should be able to bring it to a mirror shine that way.

 

Key point: You need to have color-matched plastic available to you, or there is NO avoiding painting. (You'll also need paint that's a perfect color match, in that case) Do you have any scrap plastic, perhaps from the initial build? Or can the vendor supply you with any extra sheets of plastic from the same source, so there is a color match?

 

The way the kidney shims are done in the post is the way I had been told to do it, but I can see you have added a big red message on each of the pictures stating that this shimming is no longer acceptable - any idea about that? Wouldn't want to put in the work and get my application pushed back!

Gracias Walter!

I hear what you mean about to re-doing shims. I had to do mine twice, also! That's because I changed my mind about the attachment method, however, switching to a better, more secure attachment for the second attempt. The actual result looked the same from the outside, however.

 

This link is my first attempt. I recommend reading it anyway because even though I changed the attachment methodology, I went into more detail about cutting the actual shim itself from scrap material.

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35552-kmans-anovos-tk-adventure-build/?p=467267

 

My second, revised attempt at shimming is in this post:

 

http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/35552-kmans-anovos-tk-adventure-build/?p=471470

 

The second round went very nicely. I definitely recommend this technique, which is very simple. Essentially as I wrote in my earlier post in this thread: Cut a shim plate from extra plastic that's the right width for however much extra space you need (equal width pieces for each side), and the same height as the kidney plate. Add an extra 1/2" of height IF you want to recreate return edges like I did (they're not required). Also cut a smaller plate that will simply glue on the back of the seam to join the kidney plate and the shim plate. Then glue it all together. For higher level approvals (Centurion only) you need to use ABS to erase the "new" seam where the shim meets the kidney plate. For basic approval and EIB, that's not needed.

Edited by kman
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Thanks for taking time to respond to my post Kman, I really appreciate it!

 

For some unknown reason, I can't see any pics on the thread you have linked, is there any chance I can ask you to post a thumbnail here of the outside and inside view of the kidney plate so I can emulate your work?

Many thanks, I seem to be progressing at last!

Edited by TOMALFORD
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Thanks for taking time to respond to my post Kman, I really appreciate it!

 

For some unknown reason, I can't see any pics on the thread you have linked, is there any chance I can ask you to post a thumbnail here of the outside and inside view of the kidney plate so I can emulate your work?

 

Many thanks, I seem to be progressing at last!

Apparently there are some over eager firewalls that are blocking my image host for reasons I've yet to track down. (Although the site has been scanned several times and verified to be clean) If you're surfing at work, perhaps try from home? I don't have a way I can repost the photos at the moment, but I'll see if I can manage something tomorrow. Edited by kman
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Apparently there are some over eager firewalls that are blocking my image host for reasons I've yet to track down. (Although the site has been scanned several times and verified to be clean) If you're surfing at work, perhaps try from home? I don't have a way I can repost the photos at the moment, but I'll see if I can manage something tomorrow.

 

Thanks, will try from my cell :)

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Hi Kman! Worked wonders from my phone - if it's OK with you, I will post some pics before glueing to get your opinion!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Hi Kman! Worked wonders from my phone - if it's OK with you, I will post some pics before glueing to get your opinion!

Sure, go right ahead. :)
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Kman, here is where I am right now, been busy assembling the arms :)

Does this look OK? I have measured, taped and then used ABS paste to stick the piece to a back plate which I will then paste to the original thigh.

post-28750-0-05889900-1464682982_thumb.jpg

post-28750-0-64159400-1464682983_thumb.jpg

post-28750-0-72374900-1464682991_thumb.jpg

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I also have to add a small extension to my left calve piece, this seems to be very difficult to keep the piece "open" whilst the glue is sticking, should I just stick a shoe in there or something?

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Looks good from what I can tell. I'm no clear on what procedure you're using: Is there a lip where the original thigh armor meets the shim, or was it cut to exactly that size with a lip added behind (the photo with the clamps)?

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Looks good from what I can tell. I'm no clear on what procedure you're using: Is there a lip where the original thigh armor meets the shim, or was it cut to exactly that size with a lip added behind (the photo with the clamps)?

I added a lip behind to stick behind the original piece

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Thanks for posting this thread - I'll be referring to it as I get ready to do my own thigh shims this week. Can you post a pic of the inside of thighs where the shims are installed?

Hi Trooper!!! Not stuck yet but I will get some pics up!!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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Put the calve shims in, no matter how much I sand, the joint simply refuses to disappear and has gone dark....any suggestions?------------

Edited by gmrhodes13
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On 6/5/2016 at 7:28 PM, TOMALFORD said:

Put the calve shims in, no matter how much I sand, the joint simply refuses to disappear and has gone dark....any suggestions?------------

 

Have you tried filling the gap with ABS paste?

Edited by gmrhodes13
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Have you tried filling the gap with ABS paste?

That's what I am using! It just doesn't fill it all in ince sanded, you can clearly see the joint :(

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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