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Helmet electronics and external power supply Gen 4. UKSWRATH


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Finished all my electronics yesterday, as well. I'll post a pic later this eve.   Added a regulator to my SHA from Active Armor.....Worked like a charm!!!!   Thanks Tony for all your tutorials!!!!

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Finished all my electronics yesterday, as well. I'll post a pic later this eve.   Added a regulator to my SHA from Active Armor.....Worked like a charm!!!!   Thanks Tony for all your tutorials!!!!

 

I'm so glad I'm not the only one doing this. Very cool little community we have going here. Can't wait to see all the great ideas that come out of it.  

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I took a stab at a device advertised to remove EMI noise from USB 5v charging ports. EMI is only noticeable when used with audio equipment like my SHA unit. As some of you know my SHA runs off the 9v or 12v and not 5v, this is why. So, over the last few months i've been experimenting with all sorts of ways to eliminate the issue. Lately I purchased a device called a Jitterbug. This little beauty is designed to eliminate or reduce EMI and other related electrical noises. I don't doubt it works in specific circumstances as advertised, but it definitely didn't in mine. Long story short, I returned the $50 beauty, thank you Amazon, and now I'm back to square one.

 

On a side note, I discovered out of the 5 different USB chargers I tested with the Jitterbug the Antigravity Mini has the cleanest EMI output of the bunch. At least I got something right  ;)

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On a side note, I discovered out of the 5 different USB chargers I tested with the Jitterbug the Antigravity Mini has the cleanest EMI output of the bunch. At least I got something right ;)

How did it work on the lemon?

 

;)

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I'm curious to know what's wrong with the current 12v setup to your antigravity battery? 

 

I don't have a problem with the 12v circuit. I was just looking to add options to my current sales items. Making my SHA unit USB powered would eliminate the need for a battery tray. Again, more options 

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How did it work on the lemon?

 

;)

 

Smells like a great idea ;) but I think I'll stick to man made items that are a bit more dependable, yet could endanger my life  :laugh1:  :blink:

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I don't have a problem with the 12v circuit. I was just looking to add options to my current sales items. Making my SHA unit USB powered would eliminate the need for a battery tray. Again, more options 

OK I get it. Battery trays are pretty terrible. 

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  • 2 months later...

Glad I have one of your brackets on the way as well as the remaining pieces from Amazon. Giving me another use out of my power supply than just powering fans and playing Pokemon Go! One thing you don't really cover in the tutorial but it's in the schematics is the 3.5mm cable being wired into the RJ45 female harness and plugged into the Amp2. What's confusing is then the Amp2's 7.4 voltage reducer plugs into the on/off switch and into 12v power portion of the RJ45 female harness. What's the purpose for that? 

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Glad I have one of your brackets on the way as well as the remaining pieces from Amazon. Giving me another use out of my power supply than just powering fans and playing Pokemon Go! One thing you don't really cover in the tutorial but it's in the schematics is the 3.5mm cable being wired into the RJ45 female harness and plugged into the Amp2. What's confusing is then the Amp2's 7.4 voltage reducer plugs into the on/off switch and into 12v power portion of the RJ45 female harness. What's the purpose for that? 

 

Sorry for the delay Jason. The 3.5mm carries external audio from a player, through the cable to the Amp2 where it played through the Hovi speakers. The amp2 battery input is 7.4v. I'm using 12v battery so I needed to step it down. 

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Ok, I get it now. I thought for some reason it was providing power from 12v and also 5v. I see now that all it is doing is going from a 3.5mm mono cable > JST > Red and Yellow portion of the ethernet harness > ethernet cable > ethernet harness > Red and Yellow > JST > Mono > MP3 Player. I'm beginning my wiring today in anticipation for my bracket to arrive. 

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Ok, I get it now. I thought for some reason it was providing power from 12v and also 5v. I see now that all it is doing is going from a 3.5mm mono cable > JST > Red and Yellow portion of the ethernet harness > ethernet cable > ethernet harness > Red and Yellow > JST > Mono > MP3 Player. I'm beginning my wiring today in anticipation for my bracket to arrive. 

 

Looking forward to it  :duim:

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I'll take some pictures tonight and more once I get the bracket it. The hardest part was getting the solder out of the Anker2 PCB. I have a crappy 4xAA battery soldering iron though. I ended up taking a really tiny drill bit to it and finishing it off with the soldering iron. Now I just have to think what I am going to do with the spare line. 

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I'll take some pictures tonight and more once I get the bracket it. The hardest part was getting the solder out of the Anker2 PCB. I have a crappy 4xAA battery soldering iron though. I ended up taking a really tiny drill bit to it and finishing it off with the soldering iron. Now I just have to think what I am going to do with the spare line. 

 

hahaha if you're like me you find ways to improve on something  ;)

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C9E132F6-4025-48FD-A656-5D37CDB7E9C9.jpg
All wired up! Only thing I have noticed is there is a lot of noise coming from the SHA. I will put everything in my bucket and play with the wires but if it continues, I'll go back to a separate power.

Edited by Airborne Trooper
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<img src="http://i1111.photobucket.com/albums/h479/invaderjason/C9E132F6-4025-48FD-A656-5D37CDB7E9C9.jpg"alt="C9E132F6-4025-48FD-A656-5D37CDB7E9C9.jpg"><br><br>

All wired up! Only thing I have noticed is there is a lot of noise coming from the SHA. I will put everything in my bucket and play with the wires but if it continues, I'll go back to a separate power.

 

Awesome. You're running the SHA off the 12v circuit correct? If so you shouldn't have any noise other than the mic pickup.

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I put my headphones in and I was getting some bad noise. It should be quiet other than picking up audio. Maybe I should go back and check the solder for the mics? I have it connected to the 12v circuit, wired together with the Amp2. Sorry these photos were taken before I put the mic JST lines in. 

 

EFFCD1B0-598D-4B93-904B-29F08917AD35.jpg

932E648D-64AD-4FE9-A8E9-6032978988DE.jpg

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Hi Tony,  I've been reading through many of your excellent posts.  Particularly, anything regarding the USB power packs.  I'm only going to be powering a few 5v fans in a TK bucket.  Have you pretty much determined that the Antigravity Mini doesn't have the annoying minimum draw requirement?  

 

Thanks for any insight,

 

Tim

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  • 1 month later...

Figured out my noise issue was. I had a weak solder joint on one of the microphones. Easy fix and working great now. My question is how do you suit up? I have my power supply in my chest and ran the Cat5 though my neck seal. Connect my Cat5, turn on the power, and then don my helmet. My wife pulls the excess slack through and tucks it so it can't be seen. I'm considering maybe putting the power supply in one of my ammo pouches on my hips so it's a bit easier to turn on. The 5v automatically turns on but I have to push the button to get 12v on. It'll turn off after 5 or 10 seconds if it doesn't have a draw. 

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Great news Jason. Not sure the reasoning behind the power shutting off. Soon as I plug in my electrons my battery is "ON", no pushing any buttons. I've thought about placing the battery in one of the left pouches also. Let us know how it works out.

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Chest and helmet are the last items to go on. I place the power pack in the chest area, run the cable up my neck seal, install the chest, connect the cable in the helmet, install the helmet. Ready to rock and roll.

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  • 2 months later...

Tony, is this still the setup you're using?  You use the Antigravity Mini XP-5, to feed 5V power to the fans (from the battery's 5V USB output) and 9v power to your ROM/FX (stepped down from the battery's 12v output) and also to your SHA (also stepped down from the 12v output).

 

You do NOT actually (personally) run the Aker "Amp 2" + iComm setup, right? (other than for occasional testing purposes)

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