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Posted (edited)

Hello everyone! This will be my first attempt at building a ANH E-11 and I hope you all enjoy it. I had purchased the new Phoenix Props E-11 kit and I must say it is very impressive.

 

We all know how a blaster kit looks unboxed and that resin parts should get a good wash before any work is started, so I will skip ahead and start this thread with some of the parts already repaired and prepped for installation. Also, please feel free to offer any helpful criticism along the way.

 

I started with the end cap and wanted to make sure that when assembled, it functioned as a real Sterling should. As you can see, repairs were needed so the parts resembled the real thing.

6Mg9JRD.jpgsSrlSMQ.jpg

Edited by Onlyalad19
Posted (edited)

The screw was actually added for strength. When the d-ring section is finally glued in place, it will look like one piece just like the real cap.

Edited by Onlyalad19
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I'm looking forward to following your build Jared.

 

I think that you'll find this forum very friendly and helpful so keep building and asking questions.

Edited by Thrawn's guard
Posted (edited)

Thanks for the heads up Twnbrother. Here is where the d-ring now sits after a little adjustment. I think it looks much better now.

 

QyJweND.jpg

 

So moving on with the build, I decided to focus on the gun sights next. The rear sight needed some minor repair and some drilling to expose the peep hole that was lost in the molding process.

 

qxNz5lr.jpgMEEQHcS.jpg

 

Now with the front sight I had to once again do some touch ups, but also put more effort into it to bring out the details... which is ironic considering the size of it. I very carefully used my Dremel press to drill out the hole and tap it for the 6/32 x 1/8" hex set screw (grub screw). As you can see it came out perfectly!

 

hwTh3zk.jpgXgtSyCA.jpg

XKLblKp.jpg

 

Then with the same Dremel I used the sanding disc attachment and a flat needle file to make the channel along the bottom.

 

WQ4zgD2.jpg

AaGd3vm.jpg

 

Nailed it!

Edited by Onlyalad19
  • Like 3
Posted

Here is another update for today. During the course of this project I somehow managed to lose one of the little resin half moons that came with the kit, so I had to make my own. I used a scrap piece of sheet aluminum, that luckily was the exact thickness, and bend it around a 3/4" o.d. steel tube. I then used masking tape to make a template from the remaining half moon and taped it onto the newly bend sheet. After using a cutting disc to cut out the basic shape, I then used a flat needle file to get them into the exact shape. Then I finished them off with a light sandpaper to remove any deep scratches and bring them to a nice shine.

 

UNEKldJ.jpg

 

Making these little guys from scratch seemed like a very daunting task, but it was not as hard as it seemed. It certainly looks better and in the end will be much stronger than resin.

 

dMTfHNk.jpg

 

That is all for today!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Keep it up, it looks very sharp :D

 

 

OT question: Does anyone know why the rear sight wasn't flipped over when casted ?

It would help out allot of people gluing them the wrong way around most of the time.

Edited by Tr00per
Posted

During the course of this project I somehow managed to lose one of the little resin half moons that came with the kit, so I had to make my own.

 

UNEKldJ.jpg

 

HOLY $#@%!!!!  I don't always use profanity, but when I do, you better believe it's because this project RULES!!!

 

Dang Jared, those are BETTER than any original guard I've ever seen!  Stellar work, man!!

Posted

Keep it up, it looks very sharp :D

 

 

OT question: Does anyone know why the rear sight wasn't flipped over when casted ?

It would help out allot of people gluing them the wrong way around most of the time.

 

I've got rear sights molded for the sight at the 100 and the 200 mark. I've never been able to get a real answer on weather it was one or the other. With the sight at the 100 mark, it gives the exact height (I feel) for the scope rail. With the sight forward at the 200 mark, it gives a very nice guide to drill the hole down for the scope rail.

 

What really matters though is that the ribs on the sight face back towards the wielders face.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Thanks for the link Scott, but sadly I have zero skills when it comes to welding. Plus, these parts will add that extra bit of detail that I wanted without the extra work... especially when it comes to the folding stock.

Posted

Today I worked on the magazine catch assembly installation. First step was to drill a hole completely through the magazine for the shaft of the push button. Then using a 1/4" diam. bit I set the depth on my Dremel press and carefully routed out the space for the bottom catch plate.

 

DyfcHKp.jpg

 

Here it is after going back and forth a few times to make sure it fit correctly in place.

 

VAnnKwB.jpg

 

After the fit was finalized, it was just a matter of installing the parts to make sure it all functioned.

 

k1vhlvz.jpgzTwBDhu.jpg1W3coBb.jpgLceg9eY.jpg

 

This was a fairly easy part to install since the kit was cast from a real sterling. I have seen other builds where this assembly was made from scratch and had it look just as good, but I went the easy route to save myself the headache.

  • Like 2
Posted

Very nice! IT's awesome you're adding in these additional things to make this a very accurate build!

  • Like 1
Posted

Jared - You have carried out some really impressive work here with great attention to detail. I particularly like what you have done with the magazine catch assembly.

 

As I have said before I am constantly amazed at the continued improvement on modifications that can be made to resin kit builds this build being a prime example.

  • Like 1

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