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And so it begins....MTK


aintrabar

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Man Riggin and snaps.... Theres about a billion different ways to do it. So far ive been makeing snap plates and putting them on the armor, now i'm trying to decide how to do the abplate to back plate.  Then hopefully once that works i can start sizeing some. I also did the snaps on the crotch pieces.

 

Working onthe cutting of the elastic (hate it) hehe

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STOP! Don't use elastic, use nylon webbing. The elastic will wear out here. What I did was use the s-snap indent tool and put it on top of the split and hammer down. It allowed the legs to split apart. Keep hammering away until it's split enough and then you can flatten it the rest of the way with just the hammer.

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I did the top and bottom ones then the center. You just need so item that you can wedge between the posts and hit with a hammer. A flat head screwdriver would do the trick too. Make sure you put a towel or something down against a piece of wood so you don't scratch your armor all up. 

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Had a very productive day.. Especially when i figgured out teh punchtool for the snaps is great for the friggin spit rivets hehe

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And yes i switched to the webbing. Thank you major on that one

Also got my cotch buttons done

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And strapped. My big win was getting my butt plate one. But the reccomendation of my garrison armor master was do use the piano wire on the butt. Makes it more possible to sit if you need to

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Even tried on and did a fitting on the whole lower torso

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And yes i'm useing snaps on the other side. The dream of centurion died a long time ago in this build hehe. I jsut want to get my tk done and looking good for some big upcoming troops.

 

Tomorrow the chest and back i think... gotta get that done so i can get the arms attached

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STOP! Don't use elastic, use nylon webbing. The elastic will wear out here. What I did was use the s-snap indent tool and put it on top of the split and hammer down. It allowed the legs to split apart. Keep hammering away until it's split enough and then you can flatten it the rest of the way with just the hammer.

Why do you say that? Not only is the original suits using elastic, but for good reason. Elastic soaks up stress during movement, unlike webbing which just transfers it to connected pieces. That keeps snaps from unsnapping, glue from coming undone and in some cases, helps prevent cracking.
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At least in my experience and from other member builds I've read, the elastic wears out and the hole stretches out around the split rivet. Yes, it's not accurate to the original but it is more practical to use nylon webbing. To each their own.

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If it wears out you're either not using enough, IE constantly streching it beyong it's limits, or using really poor elastic. Elastic, like snaps are worth spending a little extra on.

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+1 for elastics, mainly for comfort and some stretch. But yes, it's the builder's choice.<br><br>

Keep up the pace and there are plenty of reference material in previous builds.

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It is the builders choice. But in this case, the builder chose elastic and was swayed away from it. That's not "builders choice".

 

And only with all available information can the builder make an informed decision.

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Sorry for the lack of updates guys. Darth Life has interrupted with a death in the family. Also i got sidetracked with my Tie pilot (now approved TI-13073) I just got my garter system (thats what my wife calls it) from pencap510 and hope to get to fitting that and my legs soon. Also need to fisnish up fitting my torso (so close just need to fit the snaps for chest and the over sholders)

I think i'm just procrastinating since i'm scared of the belt! hehe

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Belt assembly 101:

  1. Add male snaps to ab plate.
  2. Lay canvas belt on torso and feel for the snaps. Mark the spots.
  3. Add female snaps to marked spots.
  4. Drill a small hole in the middle of the plastic belt
  5. Lay the platic belt on canvas centered over the female snaps and through the small hole, mark the position on belt.
  6. Make a hole at the marked position of the canvas and insert the male half a cap rivet from behind and through the canvas and plastic belt.
  7. Add female half of cap rivet and hammer them together.
  8. Make loops for dropboxes from white elastic and rivet them to the backside of inner the dropbox halves (using cap rivets before you glue the belt boxes together). The top of the boxes should not extend far below the plastic belt, but almost touch it.
  9. Insert canvas belt through the loops all the way until they stop at the center cap rivet.
  10. Repeat step 5, 6 and 7 but with the edges of the belt. You want to mark the holes with the belt laid over the ab plate, not flat on a table. Otherwise it will strech too much when worn.
  11. Add rivet covers
  12. Slide belt boxes back to the edge where they should be stopped by the cap rivet on each end.
  13. Snap belt to ab plate by sticking your fingers in between plastc and canvas belt and push.

Congrats. You now have an accurately assembled belt.

 

gallery_12157_59_52398.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...

AN UPDATE!! yay! (sorry life has been hectic) and i start a new job on monday.So trying to knock out as much as i can before i'm back to the grind.

So Did some work on the torso. I took Major's Idea and pushed back the rivits then coverd them in e600 (hard to see in the picture

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Also my thighs are all strapped up and sized. I am now able to put my legs on and walk around.

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Also i finished my buttons (they need touch up) and put the snaps in for the belt.

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And stopped for a few to glue my gloves together

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And got started on the detonator.. only to find out i couldent find the right size drill bits to get the clamps on. but wll make a store run soon

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And still need to get my wife to help me for a few so i can finish up sizeing the sholder straps for the chest and back. Then i can get the arms strapped (they are done just not strapped up with the bells and sholders

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So lots of progress. Hopeing to knock a LOT of this out tomrrow. And have a very small armor party on saturday. Hopeing to have most of it done by then. 

 

Seeing a light at the end of the tunnell!

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