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501st standards?


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Hi Jerry,

 

You may be surprised to hear that there isn't a current, approved 501st standard for stormtroopers. There is one in the works though. Here is was was submitted. If you hit this list, as a GML I can say for surety that you'd get in today.

 

If you're starting from scratch though, I'd really recommend going Elite from the beginning. It's much easier to start out this way than modify a costume down the line.

--------------

 

Quote
Costume: Stormtrooper

Prefix: TK

detachment: First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment

 

Context: ANH, ESB, ROTJ

Stormtroopers are the infantry troops of the Imperial Army

 

Costume components

Armor: made from ABS, HIPS, or fiberglass. Must be in proportion to what was seen in ANH. Accepted styles are the FX kit, ANH styles from AP, TE(2), SDS, RT, and TM. Also accepted are fan sculpts that are similar in size. Armor must be white with no tint.

The armor must consist of:

1. Boots. These must be white leather or leather like, above ankle, with a flat sole. Jodpur-type boots or equivalent style. No buckles or laces.

2. Greaves (one with knee plate described below). Greaves may or may not close in the back.

3. Thighs that close in the back (and the right with an ammo belt described below)

4. Ab plate (either one piece, or a separate cod & ab). The ab plate also has a button area that must be detailed correctly (details below).

5. Back plate (either a single piece, or separate kidney and butt)

6. Drop boxes which dangle from the plastic front of the belt via white straps, black straps are an acceptable alternative.

7. Belt consisting of a correct plastic front (aka TK ammo belt). The rest of the belt should be either: canvas, heavy cloth or canvas / cloth covered plastic all of which must be white or off white.

8. Chest piece

9. Back plate.

10. Shoulder straps (as described below). These must be securely mounted in front, but may free float in back. The may be affixed with either rivets, Velcro, or adhesive.

11. Shoulder bells.

12. Biceps that must be fully closed

13. Forearms that must be fully closed

14. Hand plates that cover the back of the hands. Either trapezoid or snow trooper plates are acceptable.

15. Gloves. Must be black rubber, nomex, leather, or leather like. Enclosed fingered, non-textured.

16. A thermal detonator must be present on the back attached to the belt. This is a gray cylinder approximately 2” in diameter with white end caps with a white control pad affixed, facing outwards. It may be permanently affixed using fasteners or clipped.

Side gaps are allowable between the back and ab plate.

The ab plate must be a TK ab plate with a buttons as diagramed. They can be either all black, or fit the paint scheme as shown.

Ammo belt must be present on the right thigh. Correct trapezoid knee plate on the left greave (diamond knee plates or the absence of a knee plate is not acceptable).

 

Helmet:

Must be made out of fiberglass, ABS, or HIPS. It must be white. It must match proportionally to what was seen on screen. Details include:

1. Lenses must be smoke bubble, flat green, or flat smoke.

2. Traps and tears must be slate blue or grey. Traps & tears must have lines.

3. Frown must be painted black or grey. Six or eight total teeth on the frown can be cut out, and the frown must contain either eight or ten teeth total.

4. Tube strips blue, dark blue, or black. There must be at least 8 and a maximum of 11. The curve must bend backwards. There does not need to be an equal amount per side.

5. Ear caps may or may not have screws.

6. Chin must be black.

7. Mic tips must be present.

 

Additional Requirements:

1. Holster. Black leather, worn on either side.

2. Blastech E-11 Blaster Rifle. Must be based off of a real or replica Sterling.

 

Accessories:

1. MG-24 (DLT-19) Blaster Rifle

 

2. Grappling Hook

3. Comlink

Edited by gmrhodes13
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Daetrin said:
Hi Jerry,

 

You may be surprised to hear that there isn't a current, approved 501st standard for stormtroopers. There is one in the works though. Here is was was submitted. If you hit this list, as a GML I can say for surety that you'd get in today.

 

If you're starting from scratch though, I'd really recommend going Elite from the beginning. It's much easier to start out this way than modify a costume down the line.

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The armorI've bought has all this I think,although there isn't a canvas-belt I think.

Easy to ad later I suppose?

 

 

Also not sure about the colors of the dots on the ab-plate.

 

I thought they were all black...

Edited by gmrhodes13
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The FX kit has come with black buttons for years, which is weird as black buttons only appear in ROTJ. The canvas belt is an easy fix later.

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The FX kit has come with black buttons for years, which is weird as black buttons only appear in ROTJ. The canvas belt is an easy fix later.

 

And whats with the black tube stripes ? :huh:

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I recently purchased my first armor kit as well, it's an FX I believe and it came with blue stripes. I've gathered from this forum that the black tube stripes are a problem and is being worked on to get corrected on all TKs.

 

I did have a question about 501st acceptance when it came to the blaster. I've looked at the PVC kits and the Hasbro conversion kits and I think they are a bit beyond my skills, and I'm not sure I could do a very good job with them. Back to the point, what are the 501st requirements for the blaster, is it okey to just paint a Hasbro blaster? What about the Clone blaster currently available?

 

I do plan on trying for Elite, but I'm more concerned about the armor right now. I would love a hyperfirm or a resin, but those look like an investment.

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carbonitekid said:
And whats with the black tube stripes ? :huh:

 

Did I hear someone reference black tube stripes :o:o:o !!!!

 

I can fix that!!

 

As to my knowledge, there was NEVER any shots on screen where any TK had black stripes. Even in ROTJ they were still blue. My guess here (and it is a guess) is that the decals made for the FX kit are black vinyl with the gray printed over the top, then cut. This makes sense due to the rest of the decals are black and gray.

 

Again, I can only assume, but I am hear to help all those FX owners replace their tube stripes with correct blue ones. I know it is a shameless plug, but you can read all about it here: Blue tube stripes

 

Thanks.

Edited by gmrhodes13
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I did have a question about 501st acceptance when it came to the blaster. I've looked at the PVC kits and the Hasbro conversion kits and I think they are a bit beyond my skills, and I'm not sure I could do a very good job with them. Back to the point, what are the 501st requirements for the blaster, is it okey to just paint a Hasbro blaster? What about the Clone blaster currently available?

 

I do plan on trying for Elite, but I'm more concerned about the armor right now. I would love a hyperfirm or a resin, but those look like an investment.

 

Everything in armor is an investment, and you just have to decide where you invest. I still have a modded hasbro, and although it is not up to Elite standards without some serious updating, the 501st does not even have a stance stating you have to have a blaster.

 

BTW, the conversion kits for the hasbro are very easy, and if you can do an FX kit, you can do the conversion kit. I would suggest looking at the cost, as by the time you buy the hasbro, buy the kit, you are close to what it would cost to get a much more accurate blaster.

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Everything in armor is an investment, and you just have to decide where you invest. I still have a modded hasbro, and although it is not up to Elite standards without some serious updating, the 501st does not even have a stance stating you have to have a blaster.

 

BTW, the conversion kits for the hasbro are very easy, and if you can do an FX kit, you can do the conversion kit. I would suggest looking at the cost, as by the time you buy the hasbro, buy the kit, you are close to what it would cost to get a much more accurate blaster.

 

I think I might just get a Hasbro, paint it black and then save up for a decent resin or hyperfirm. Got to solve a few financial problems first.

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