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The shoulder bridges were riveted to the chest only and Velcro on the back. John's suit is not ROTJ. It's an ESB MKII made prior to ROTJ.

What is the diffrence?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone 6 using Tapatalk

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The shoulder bridges were riveted to the chest only and Velcro on the back. John's suit is not ROTJ. It's an ESB MKII made prior to ROTJ.

 

 

When did this come about? 

 

When I was doing my Rubies conversion, the info at the time pointed to only velcro, front and back.

 

I've been through literally thousands of screen captured frames over and over and have never clearly seen the rivet.  To contrast this, there are hundreds of frames where you can see the velcro on the back. 

 

To further support you though, in all the closeups of the front chest armor, the bridges are way too compressed, IMO, to be velcro'd.  They look glued on, or riveted on.  And they turn a bit side to side, so the rivet is more than likely, if not known.

 

A bit about the CRL.  Shouldn't the CRL cover the VAST majority of on-screen TK's?  I know when I was putting my Rubies together, the CRL said that the TD was optional.  Which is good, as the Rubies didn't provide a TD.  If you look at the movie, about the only time the TK's on Endor aren't wearing TD's is when they are going to be thrown to the ground, or stunts.  I'm sure Lucas didn't want them broken.

 

Again, the VAST majority on Endor you can't see the bottom buttons.  ALL of the TK's in the hangar scenes you can't see the bottom buttons.  And the VAST majority have colored buttons.

 

There are plenty of outliers, of course.  The Endor scene was thrown together and Lucas was just trying to get it done.  TK's with different boots, blank buttons, TD/no TD, etc.  Even the TK holding his E-11 as they are leaving the bunker with the Rebels with their hands behind their heads doesn't have a scope on his ROTJ E-11.  The scope mount is still there, but no scope. 

 

I will concede the point of rivets.  Grudgingly.  And now I have to find my rivet gun.  :(

 

Sorry for the hijack OP. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

It has been quite quiet lately, so I tried some test-fitting.

Sorry, the photographer must have been drunk :)

 

i5xbsdzjygn7.jpg

 

q3nx18slkqte.jpg

 

vy3dcjj5nbrr.jpg

 

9f71ybgccit4.jpg

 

I think, I am a little bit thin, but I hope it will also work.

And, of course, the chest is too low.

 

Move along...

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No I didn't.

Schould have put my arms up. Tried this some time ago and the gap slightly disappears.

 

Something different:

 

Please tell me I am goofing, but aren't there two left inner thights?

 

6i2mo6xnkmul.jpg

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When did this come about?

About 1980 :P

 

Seriously, John's suit was made well before ROTJ so don't go copying anything if you want to make an ROTJ replica. The strapping is totally different inside but he plastic armour components are virtually the same. It's the helmet that differs the most. The shape is different as is the interior.

 

If you want to build a good suit, use movie screen caps or photos of real armour. CRL's are a good base to work from but not very accurate in my opinion.

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Last weekend I managed to put the trim on the armor parts.

Not perfect, but ok.

 

b6sjne2gba9e.jpg

 

I also tried to assemble one forearm, but I must have cut the parts wrong.

I am afraid that if I trim it further down, there will be no material for glueing.

 

dyn75m7ut9dy.jpg

 

honkzxhmj24p.jpg

 

yelguksn4mke.jpg

 

I know this sounds stupid, but I am extremely afraid of messing the whole thing up.

I've been reading and reading, did my research as I could, but here I am stuggling with my first armor part to glue...

I am sorry.

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[...] but with overlap you trim the two ridges directly to 15mm and glue them one upon another.

I know, i know, i'm quoting myself... what an egomaniac.

 

So, how wide are your front ridges on the two halves of your forearm so far? They should be around 15mm:

dyn75m10.jpg

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How could someone possibly call you an egomaniac? You are my lifesaver!

 

How could I have overread that??

Hmm...

 

So this is how it looks like:

 

expdh1blxm7.jpg

 

There are approx. 20mm on the other side so that wi work, but should I cut here? (note: this is how it arrived).

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I would just cut the excess of ABS on this side, like that:

expdh110.jpg

 

Then do the same for the inner half.

 

When you will glue the two parts together, remember that the outer half overlaps the inner half. And don't be too concerned if the flat sections aren't perfectly matching when you lay them one upon another, this is common as you can see on those pictures:

gallery_12157_9_2310633.jpg

 

gallery_12157_62_34306.jpg

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Ok, thank you :)

 

Next time I'll cut right beneath this line so I won't have this problem.

Currenty cutting the biceps and the inner one is a PAIN!

 

Oh and the liner is secured.

I did this quite inconventional with velcro dots so I can remove it for cleaning or replacing... seems to work.

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Just some testing in putting the forearm together.

 

4mg8nhsxc21.jpg

 

qj8y7lcqopws.jpg

 

nttue17c7rcn.jpg

 

s1obq4dk246.jpg

 

jjhhn9if4zkf.jpg

 

I feel a bit loos inside.

Maye I should trim it down a little more?

Comparing to other troopers it looks ok (and I want to leave some room in case I finally start getting some weight).

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Anyway, ROTJ is made so at one point you can't really make the forearms smaller and specifically fit to your body. I'd say, make the front and back joints around 13-15mm wide and then just glue them. You'll have extra room but nothing that some padding won't be able to solve.

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Well, it wont' win a price for beauty, but I have finished my first forearm!

 

reu5vyr3ab.jpg

 

4yunryqfn732.jpg

 

hjxfq9fwitf9.jpg

 

thg9hevb5jv.jpg

 

The second forearm is still in progress and I've nearly done trimming the thights.

Back to the scissors!

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That looks ok lad! The first limb is the hardest, it should become easier and easier now on ;)

 

You should be able to wipe the glue residues with a towel with some alcohol on it (e.g. White Spirit). And also, you still have some return edge left at the wrist opening of the forearm, remove it completely if you want to go for EIB/Cent:

hjxfq910.jpg

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The rest of the glue is really not a problem :)

 

As I could read in Rich's build thread it comes off quite well, so I was not worried about spilling it.

And it definately needs some cosmetic corrections.

 

Sent from the shield generator on Endor

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Time to bug you again...

 

I've finished both forearms and wanted to start glueing the tights, but JC's build kinda confused me, so I'll show you:

 

659ix735fg2p.jpg

 

okrubsukbl2g.jpg

 

outer tights one untrimmed, one trimmed.

 

yyadt5ki7j1.jpg

 

rhak6ogqy39x.jpg

 

inner thights one trimmed, one untrimmed.

 

Did I do something wrong in trimming or is it just because JC is mor muscular than I am?

 

Also:

 

zav84k9gj88.jpg

 

This is the correct way of assembling, isn't it?

 

Pictures of biceps incoming soon.

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Front flat sections for the thighs should be around 20mm anyway, and if you need more ABS or shims to close them (which i doubt you will) you'll go wider at the back. And i wouldn't be surprised if JC has larger thighs than you have.

 

When assembling the thighs, like for the forearms, the outer half covers the inner half, just like you're doing  :).

gallery_12157_39_19978.jpg

 

 

Edit: Biceps seems ok. It's a bit difficult to tell because your tape is right one the junctions which are the interesting areas, but from what i can see it looks good. And don't hesitate to give a quick sanding along the lines where you have cut, it takes 2mn and it will avoid it to scratch your skin or undersuit ;).

Edited by The5thHorseman
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Phew :salute:

 

So I've got that one going.

Second biceps is nearly trimmed.

 

Oh.. and it seems that all reference pictures are coming together in my tread, not that I would complain :)

It's nice not to have to open another tab :)

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