A Savage TK build (ANH, Hero, RT-Mod)

[AFMedic]

Posting a lot on this today, in order.  The last posts will show my first fitting...and ask for help/advice/direction

This blog will document my build of an Stormtrooper Armor suit.

I’m a geek. I watched Star Trek as a kid, remember skipping school to see Empire Strikes Back, and while I’ve gone to a lot of movie openings, I’ve gone in costume to EP2 & EP3. I went to Comic-Con before it was impossible to get into.

So while deployed to Afghanistan for a year I decided to take the plunge and up my Geekness to the next level: To build a costume that is the ultimately recognizable Star Wars Costume (but ironically when worn you are completely anonymous): A Stormtrooper suit. My goal was to have it ready before the next Star Wars movie. I thought that was going to be 2015, but Disney has announced a Star Wars cartoon movie for 2014 so I’ve a new target. I’ve never been a cartoon guy, but its an excuse to get going.

Research showed me that one of the best suppliers of parts is a guy in Canada named Rob. I’m glad I decided while deployed for a year, because his wait list is 11 months. 11 months after telling Rob to put me on his wait list a big box of white plastic parts arrived on my doorstep.

This is also documented on A-Savage-TK-Build.tumblr.com

[AFMedic]

http://

 

The Box of Stuff…’glue’, velcro, rivets, tape, magnets, clamps, patience and luck added to the box and there should be a good outcome.

The opened Box of Stuff!

Edited April 13, 2014 by AFMedic

[AFMedic]

 

While waiting for my parts to come in I got some resin parts from England. I forgot to take pictures along the way, but some epoxy and paint (ok, lots of trimming sanding & painting later) it looks reasonably close to the ‘blasters’ used in Star Wars. The E11 baster used in the movies actually was based on a machine gun that can be purchased (with the barrel filled to make it unusable) for $800ish. Instead of a resin counter and resin scope real ones, if they can be found likewise cost $400-$500. I’m happy with my doopydoos.com $57 + time version..  I've since painted the wired black!

[AFMedic]

I’m a lucky man: my seamstress found my proposed strapping system unacceptable and has taken over. I’m not to be trusted w/ the sewing machine ;-) . I guess sticky back velcro will gum up a machine and in her mind double snaps and 40mm x 50mm of Velcro just isn’t enough. We went to JoAnns (Fabric store), but it was closed due to an East Coast storm. My thought of Amazon was overruled so that she could see/touch/deem acceptable the purchases. She also took my comment that her Tusken costume is slightly below 501st standards (slits in eye pieces) with begrudging acceptance.

Edited April 13, 2014 by AFMedic

[AFMedic]

My helmet is nearly done: Stereo inputs from small microphones in the temples, (behind the rubber) powered by two small amplifiers; 1 fan in the back that snakes over the top and blows outside air over the lenses; and a wireless transmitter for a microphone…all three switched on/off with dip switches in the front left. The thick foam keeps my head from hitting the circuit boards, bur for aesthetics I’ll be putting two pieces of foam over the boards.

[AFMedic]

Boots ordered from Zappos.com to get 8.5 in a wide size. The plus: correct size, leather and $55. The downside: they will have to be painted. I’ve done that before with Angelus Leather paints for Jedi costumes. It’s easy and works but is an additional step.

 

Arrived, they are ready for a new color:  White.  After a little work I was able to turn black boots into white boots:

Pros: The same price as the lowest online option, but available, leather, exact fit for me (1/2 size and wide).

Cons: it took a week (15 minutes per night).

What I bought:

Deer Stags Nolita boots for $55.99 at zappos.com

http://www.zappos.com/deer-stags-nolita

Angelus Brand leather products:

White acrylic leather paint (1 oz), 1/2 oz needed $3.48 Amazon

Professional Leather Preparer and Deglazer (4 oz), 1 oz needed $5.62 Amazon

No 600 Acrylic Finisher (4 oz), 1/2 oz needed $6.05 Amazon

Tulip Soft Matte fabric paint, Glacier White 4 oz, JoAnns $3.00

I also needed 2 rags, blue painters tape, 2 paint brushes, rubber gloves

 

1. Taped off soles. If I had to do it again I’d put extra time into this…making sure I covered the sole stitching more completely (I missed a spot, not going tight enough into the gap between the sole and the leather upper. I’d also cover the sole completely so my paint errors didn't get some paint on the sole. 

2. Following the instructions on the Angelus youtube instructions (http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=YujtBnQTsfQ) I used a rag and the Preparer and deglazer to remove the silicon polish on the new boots. Wearing gloves, I poured some deglazer onto the rag and wiped off the boots, turning the rag frequently (and rewetting the rag). A lot of polish came off. You might be tempted to do this more than the video suggests, but one washrag did the trick, removing enough of the top coat and polish. The remaining finish was very matt in appearance.

3. Wearing gloves, I used the Leather paint (again as the youtube video advises, to put on 2-3 primer coats (Sorry, I can’t remember if it was 2 or 3). It became apparent the leather paint didn’t and wouldn’t do the trick on the elastic sides of the boots. The leather paint just absorbed into the elastic.

4. I went to JoAnns and bought some fabric paint. Other types may work, but this type did work, 1 coat, 1st try. I just brushed it on.

5. Wearing gloves, I applied 3 heavier coats (one per night) of the leather paint, trying to carefully blend it evenly. 

6. With a new rag, I applied the Acrylic Finisher over the dried final coat. I forgot rubber gloves. Don’t forget for this step, it bonded really well to my skin.

7. Removed the blue tape. 

8. Removing the blue tape I did have a couple of little 2-3 mm spots of leather paint on the upper that were also removed where the blue tape met the uppers. In both cases it was on the heal, which leads me to believe it was my taping work. I just applied a couple little coats with a fine brush and I was good.

Lessons learned: A better quality brush wouldn’t have lost ‘hairs’ on my boot. They didn’t come off, and now are part of my boot. As mentioned before, I would have been more careful with the tape and used gloves on the finisher step.

I would have bought from TKboots.com for $70 if they were avail but they wouldn’t have fit as well (I’m a 1/2 size and wide). But even the 1/2 size above what I needed wasn’t availible. I was too cheep to spend $150 to get them from other suppliers that had them in-stock (again the wrong size). I ended up with just what I wanted (right size) and right look for a total of $70.

I’m pleased.

Edited April 13, 2014 by AFMedic

[AFMedic]

Thanks to a stack of magnets I’ve glued my interior strips on 2x Shins, 2x Biceps and 2x forearms (after trimming to size).

 

 

 

[AFMedic]

A better picture. With this step, they are sized, the inside strips are done. For the shin pieces I’ve got to figure out a proper velcro system for the back. A nice trick for sizing the biceps and forearms was given to me at a Armor party: put on your bicep pieces (taped as if they were glued), put on your forearm pieces. Try to put on your helmet. In my case can you flip your helmet switches? If you can’t bend your arms enough to put on your helmet, they need to be shortened. Mine did. I’m a little short to be a Stormtrooper.

 

[AFMedic]

Butt Joints for Bicepts. I realize I have a new self-imposed deadline: May 4th or 30 days. With 3 Day cure time for each strip on the thighs, that’s 12 days (inside strip, outside strip on the fronts, repeated for the backs). Given the number of clamps and rare earth magnets I have, I should be ok. My old production management courses from grad school may come in handy if I don’t see a path to success.
Re this step…I’ve already cut, sized, glued the inside strips. For this step I taped outside the glue area to avoid scraching, gluing the non strip area. I cut the strips to size, rounded the corners, sanded the corners, sanded the back of the strips and the bicep attachment area. Next I spread 3000 glue on the 2 surfaces thinly. Next I placed the strip on the joint, used rare earth magnets to hold it tight and (not shown) pealed off the blue tape. I’ve learned to peal off the blue tape to avoid gluing them to the piece.

 

 

[AFMedic]

In this case, I’m gluing the butt joint to only half of the back of the calf. I’ll put velcro on the 1/2 and the inside half of the calf to allow them to be opened clam shell style to put them on. I may have to put the inside joint on them too t create enough surface area for the velcro, but we’ll see as I test them. 1st test: 72 hrs after the glue has set. E6000 glue says 24-72 hours to set…I’m waiting the 72, just in case.

 

 

[AFMedic]

Thighs are coming along. Inside joints done. Progress being made, hopefully still on target for May 4th. 
Done to date: Forearms, biceps (except for hooks), Shins (100% including knee plate and back velcro!), strapping for butt to kidney, kidney to back, back to chest, chest to abdomen

 

[AFMedic]

Strapping: snaps w/ velcro sewn to elastic.

 

 

[AFMedic]

Knee plate attached. For the first time I used both e6000 (sides) and PVC cement (front). No rivets on the sides, in case I decide to go EIB at a future point.

 

 

 

 

 

[AFMedic]

And now I get to the crux of my posting:  HELP

 

Here is my Shoulder Bells taped into place.  To high?  are they too long (do I need to trip the bottoms to reduce the overall height?

 

I'm waiting to get them at the right length/location, before putting the enclosing elastic.

 

The Biceps are just sitting on the arms, not hooked up to anything. 

 

[AFMedic]

 

1st fitting.  how do the sides look?  What adjustments should I make to them before strapping Kidney to Abdomen?

[AFMedic]

And now disappointment...It seems to me that my thigh pieces are WAY to big.

 

 

 

Of course I see this after being tapped up at an armor party and putting both my inside joints and outside butt joints.

 

If you confirm, any suggestions on how to remove E6000 to resize?  I'm thinking just cut away all the excess (including the joints) and rejoining them.  

 

 

[Dark PWF[Staff]]

Looking good overall, John.

 

As for your last question about removing E6000 - as you are aware - I've got no practical experience, but I know of two separate people that have put the parts into the freezer for a few hours, or overnight, and it comes apart pretty easily, to hear them tell it.

[AFMedic]

Looking good overall, John.As for your last question about removing E6000 - as you are aware - I've got no practical experience, but I know of two separate people that have put the parts into the freezer for a few hours, or overnight, and it comes apart pretty easily, to hear them tell it.

No freezer needed...I used a blade to pry the end of the strip off of the thigh and pulled it apart. The backs were then free for trimming. I overlapped the backs 'till the thigh 1/2s were close enough to remove the gap between my leg and plastic and taped the backs. Now the Right Inner overlapped with the Right Outer. Within the overlap, I marked the mid point of the overlap on the tops and bottoms. I drew a line between the top and bottom marks and cut (cut around the bottom ridge/scored and snapped the remainder). Now with two smaller pieces I'm starting to reattach.

 

Once I get the E6000 off the strips I'll be able to use them again (checking for size).

 

I started to glue the snaps on the inside of the Ab plate and the crotch plate, but halted after allinging the velcro/webbing snap plates and tapping the outline around each soon to be glued snap plates. I'm too tired to risk gluing tonight (I'm sure I'll forget to sand one or make another mistate, so I'll get back on it in a day or two.

[The5thHorseman[TK]]

RT-mod is made for tall people, i assume that's why the shoulder bells are a bit longer than the normal.

 

Their height location is good, however it's very hard to say if you should trim their bottom or not without a proper picture of you with your arms at side and not bent like on your pics.

 

Edit: In fact looking at them once again i don't find them that much long. So i wouldn't trim their bottom.

Edited April 13, 2014 by The5thHorseman

[Daetrin[Admin]]

My helmet is nearly done: Stereo inputs from small microphones in the temples, (behind the rubber) powered by two small amplifiers; 1 fan in the back that snakes over the top and blows outside air over the lenses; and a wireless transmitter for a microphone…all three switched on/off with dip switches in the front left. The thick foam keeps my head from hitting the circuit boards, bur for aesthetics I’ll be putting two pieces of foam over the boards.

Wow! This is pretty pimped out. Do you ever get problems with moisture on the boards?

[AFMedic]

1. Thanks The5thHorseman for the bell length opinion. I like the way they fit, and will keep them at this length for now. I glued the enclosing elastic up an inch from the bottom nevertheless to allow future cutting.

 

2. Daetrin: I haven't had any issues so far except for battery holders comming undone. I'm about to JB Weld them on now that I'm comfortable with the fit. To finish off the helmet, I've got to find the S-trim I bought, but misplased, replace the lenses with bubble lenses I've procured and protect the boards. I've a two step process to protect the boards: I'm going to use a surgical barrier now that I'm happy with the volume. That plastic wrap will work well. Once I find some nice foam, with the right look, I'll cover it.

 

John

 

Please excuse the spelling, I'm working fast.

[AFMedic]

19 clamps (ok, only 12 are holding the two ribbed Shoulder Straps). The remainder are keeping the chest piece elevated and not sliding off the table. Next with a little help from my seamstress, another fitting. Then I need to finish my belt. I may have to wait a bit for that, I'm waiting for more snaps with longer stems (shipped today). The RT-Mod armor is 2mm thick, so standard 3/16 stem snaps won't go through and hold securely. I need then for the butt/crotch, and I think the belt.

 

[Vader Rocks]

You're making some good progress, very quickly. Keep up the good work trooper.

[AFMedic]

Slowly but steadily I'm making progress. Male snap plates installed between kidney and Ab plates (rt side only, I ran out of E6000 and clamps). As well as snap plates in the crotch, and tops of the thighs.

 

[AFMedic]

Starting to come together.

 

 

 

Any recommendations...Please advise.