AFMedic

As a Hero, I regret that decision as the bubble lenses distort your vision even more than being in a stormtrooper bucket does...it takes a difficult line of sight and complicates it further by a distorted lens...ouch. Just my two cents

I've the lenses you linked, I couldn'd find anything else. They look great, BUT they are distored looking out and it does make it difficult. I've just got a 2nd bucket so that I can have a ANH Hero accurate helmet and a 'almost except for the lenses so I can see when in a challenging environment' helmet

I just got my kit in the mail and am searching for build threads. Thank you for having one. I'll add mine to the forum once I get going. Some questions: 1. What expoxy/glue did you use? I'm not sure what the material is to get the right adhesive 2. What is the block for? I'm still trying to figure thatt out. If you could show a picture it would be appreciated. 3. I assume I should wash in soapy water the pieces to get the 'release' off. Did you? 4. Mine seems tacky (not without style, but sticky). Was yours, did it cure to a point where it wasn't, did you just ignore this? 5. Are you aware of any other build threads for the same rubber resin kit? Thanks, AFMedic

Needed a question answered re protocol and remembered to check on your approval. WOW, what a build and what great documentation. You'll be helping folks for years with it. Well done. Congratulations. You've really added to the body of TK build knowledge.

BLUF: In character question: I'll be at DCon, and know that the heat will be overwhelming...Is it acceptable as a TK ANH Hero to go bucketless (not in the parade, but in the showrooms/seminars)? Han and Luke (highest ANH Hero screen time) were bucketless. I don't know where else to post this...putting it here, knowing someone will help Thank you my TK brethern and protectors of the faith. (P.S. glad that TKs will be in Rebels)

I'm trying to preload triggerable sound files onto some boards, but have not found any clean/isolated TK "Move Along", or "These Aren't the Droids"... files. Most of the clips I've found have a lot of the background noise and or music on them. (I listed only two examples, but will take anything). Does anyone have a suggestion (link) or personally created files. I don't have the audio mixing skills to isolate the classic clips for just the TK's speaking parts. Thanks, John "AFMedic is waiting for his final approval, but my Garrison Armorer and GML has oked me" Savage

I love the picture as it shows me how to improve my drop box location (I wasn's satisfied at the start, and am getting new webbing on the way home today). As for the thickness of the belt, after moving the boxes, if I want to improve, I'll have to rebuild. To do that I'll use another belt and ABS ammo belt piece to adjust to the belt being the width of the belt after the 48 degree cut (10 down from top/13 in from end). I'll be honest...this may not happen :-)

Made a new TD, 7 5/16 wide, 2 5/8 diameter, thinner clips 1/8 from the caps:

ANH Hero build, ready for basic submission, email with high res pictures sent to the email I believe is our Garrison's Chief Armorer/he whom I hope I should submit them to. Now to work on improving my TD (new TD done and and new clips 1/2 bent), and installing my bubble lenses. Detail pictures: Gloves: Closed Biceps, with butt joint and cover strip style build: Split Kidney/butt & straping: Belt/holster detail: TD details: Boots: E-11:

Thank you. The TD is 7 5/8 in long I can take off the clips/trim/reattach. The buttons are 14mm but I wonder as the painted portion is the tops only, not on to the side curve. I wonder how I'm going to get the paint off to repaint?

Thanks, I've got to get some foam for the forearms. Am I going for EiIB? Eventually, I'm trying to make sure everything is lined up for it.

O2 canister and clips done Shoulder elastic done. 2/3 button covers gluded. Almost done!

Another day, another fitting. All straping is almost done, belt is done, rivets are installed. To do: Belt button caps gluded (I've got two, and am awaiting a 3rd any day) Bubble lenses installed (got it, just need to install it) Sew White Elastic Straps to hold down the shoulder straps (got it, just need to sew them BEND O2 Canister clips & install clips (the bane of my build) I think for BASIC approval, I just need to beat the bane, stupid clips for the O2 canister Front view: Right Side view: Right Side arm up view: Back: Left Side view: Left Side arm up view: AND THE SMILE as I know I'm getting closer: OK, now is the time to open this up to your recommendations, criticisms, corrections. One thing I specifically wonder is should I trim the Ab plate top side as it slopes to the Kidney plate (side view)

Rivets on left side

I put a 2nd coat on tonight, but I'll wait 'till I have pealed off my template donuts to see how 'perfect' they may be. I suspect, not perfect. As for the loops they are needed as the spots on the end of the belt where the loops are, is one of the hollow parts for the ammo belt. I've some adjusting for the loops...my velcro hooks are too low on my dangling strap. The drop boxes are close to the belt as desired, but they may not hang right. I'll get some pictures tomorrow of the 'fail' and the fix. Edit 24 hrs later: No problem looking too perfect!...I have some leakage clean up to do (paint under the blue tape) and some pealed away as I took off the 'donuts'. Not hanging right:

I've a new (from my limited research) approach to the belt. 1. Drilled a hole through the center of the TK ammo belt 2. Punched a small hole through the canvas belt, centered 3. Installed a female snap through the TK ammo belt and canvas 4. Installed a male snap on the Ab, centered left to right, low on the Ab, about 1.5 inches up from the bottom. 5. Sewed white 1 in wide, 3.5 in elastic loops to go around the canvas belt, left and right sides; behind the outermost ammo 'box' and hang down with velcro on the 'hanging down part' to attach my drop boxs 6. Slid the elastic loops on the canvas belt. 7. Used E6000 to attach the canvas to the ammo belt. The three snaps (left/right/center) which go all the way through the two items clamping them together will do most of the 'holding' of the two items together, the E6000 is just to keep everything aligned and to assist the snaps. Upcoming steps 8. Snap the belt on the Ab (on my one center male snap), level and then drill all the way through the Ammo Belt/Canvas/Ab piece 3/4 of an inch in from the end of the ammo belt centered top to bottom 9. Unsnap the belt, install female snaps on the belt/male snaps on the Ab plate. 10.-? Install the holster Pics so far: Center snap E6000 I used paint sticks to try to apply distributed pressure from the clamps across the glued surfaces

Painting. Somehow this step seems very very cool. As if I'm reaching the end. At least steady progress is being made. I'll need two (or more coats), the first didn't quite do the trick.

I've not found any good pictures of "Thigh ammo belt must be attached to thigh with a solid head rivet or fastener"... What type of fastener should be used? I could use a split rivet like I'm using in the kidney & Ab...but what should be used?

Went to AwesomeCon today, so I didn't make much progress. Just finished the right thigh, and put the remaining snap plates in the ab & kidneys. I tried (unsuccessfully) to bend m O2 canister clips. I couldn't get the size right.

Starting to come together. Any recommendations...Please advise.

Slowly but steadily I'm making progress. Male snap plates installed between kidney and Ab plates (rt side only, I ran out of E6000 and clamps). As well as snap plates in the crotch, and tops of the thighs.

19 clamps (ok, only 12 are holding the two ribbed Shoulder Straps). The remainder are keeping the chest piece elevated and not sliding off the table. Next with a little help from my seamstress, another fitting. Then I need to finish my belt. I may have to wait a bit for that, I'm waiting for more snaps with longer stems (shipped today). The RT-Mod armor is 2mm thick, so standard 3/16 stem snaps won't go through and hold securely. I need then for the butt/crotch, and I think the belt.

1. Thanks The5thHorseman for the bell length opinion. I like the way they fit, and will keep them at this length for now. I glued the enclosing elastic up an inch from the bottom nevertheless to allow future cutting. 2. Daetrin: I haven't had any issues so far except for battery holders comming undone. I'm about to JB Weld them on now that I'm comfortable with the fit. To finish off the helmet, I've got to find the S-trim I bought, but misplased, replace the lenses with bubble lenses I've procured and protect the boards. I've a two step process to protect the boards: I'm going to use a surgical barrier now that I'm happy with the volume. That plastic wrap will work well. Once I find some nice foam, with the right look, I'll cover it. John Please excuse the spelling, I'm working fast.

No freezer needed...I used a blade to pry the end of the strip off of the thigh and pulled it apart. The backs were then free for trimming. I overlapped the backs 'till the thigh 1/2s were close enough to remove the gap between my leg and plastic and taped the backs. Now the Right Inner overlapped with the Right Outer. Within the overlap, I marked the mid point of the overlap on the tops and bottoms. I drew a line between the top and bottom marks and cut (cut around the bottom ridge/scored and snapped the remainder). Now with two smaller pieces I'm starting to reattach. Once I get the E6000 off the strips I'll be able to use them again (checking for size). I started to glue the snaps on the inside of the Ab plate and the crotch plate, but halted after allinging the velcro/webbing snap plates and tapping the outline around each soon to be glued snap plates. I'm too tired to risk gluing tonight (I'm sure I'll forget to sand one or make another mistate, so I'll get back on it in a day or two.

And now disappointment...It seems to me that my thigh pieces are WAY to big. Of course I see this after being tapped up at an armor party and putting both my inside joints and outside butt joints. If you confirm, any suggestions on how to remove E6000 to resize? I'm thinking just cut away all the excess (including the joints) and rejoining them.