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Posted

With practice and patience, you can get those ears to fit nice and tight. Lowering the left ear (as you wear the helmet) can help close that gap a bit. If you get hold of a dremmel with a sanding drum attachment, You will love it!!!

I'd also take an exacto knife and edge out the corners of your teeth. They appear a bit rounded. Nice progress, though!

One other thing that might make a step easier. When you are ready to glue up, cut to length and shape your cover strip PRIOR to gluing. IT will make the end result much cleaner.

Posted

Ear Update:

 

I dropped one of the ears a little it is a much better fit. 

tkbuild-december-05-2013-1698.jpg

tkbuild-december-05-2013-1699.jpg

tkbuild-december-05-2013-1700.jpg

 

 

Sniper plate:

 

Its glued,  hope I didnt screw up....

 

tkbuild-december-05-2013-1701.jpg

tkbuild-december-05-2013-1702.jpg

tkbuild-december-05-2013-1703.jpg

Posted

Drop boxes:

 

Dry fit

 Back:

tkbuild-december-07-2013-1714.jpg?i=1470

Front:

tkbuild-december-07-2013-1715.jpg

 

Battery Pack:

 

I am not sure how to mount this.  I now there is a rivet, but I don't know which one?  I have not bought a river gun yet I do have a few brass snap rivets.  Any help would be great.  

 

 

tkbuild-december-07-2013-1716.jpg

 

 
How does the the placement look?
 
tkbuild-december-07-2013-1717.jpg
tkbuild-december-07-2013-1718.jpg
tkbuild-december-07-2013-1719.jpg
Posted (edited)

Very bad right now  :P !

No standard pop rivets to affix it. Using CAP rivets is the best, but you can also use Split rivets or solid domed rivets.

 

Don't bother aligning the thigh's front cover strip with the middle ammo box, the most important is the rivets placement.

Both rivets go through the upper corner of the knee belt wings to the bottom ridge of the thigh. Then you can glue the front to avoid shifting if you want. Rivets are painted white.

med_ga10.jpg med_gallery_14191_23_53025.jpg

 

And if the ammo knee belt makes a 45° angle with the thigh it doesn't matter, it just happens sometimes. Like the one on the right of the picture below:

med_gallery_14191_23_24619.jpg

Edited by The5thHorseman
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

It is been awhile since I have had free time to work on it.  Here are some of my updates / Questions.

 

Completed TD:

 

tkbuild-december-21-2013-2370.jpg

tkbuild-december-21-2013-2369.jpg

 

Added Supports:

tkbuild-december-21-2013-2368.jpg

 

Questions

 

How do I cut this?  Do I make it just flat around the raised part? 

tkbuild-december-21-2013-2367.jpg

 

Same with this one?  How does my trim line look?  How high does this stick out?

tkbuild-december-21-2013-2364.jpg

 

This is a rough mock up of the belt.  How do the 45deg cut lines look?  Do the covers here need to be flush on the belt or have a little return edge to raise them up a little?  Do the covers need to be spaced from the edge of the belt?

tkbuild-december-21-2013-2363.jpg

 

 

Thanks again for all the help.

Posted (edited)

For the Ab buttons, try to mimic those ones:

med_gallery_12157_16_28564.jpg med_gallery_12157_16_11210.jpg

 

And careful, the larger button plate is positioned upside down on you picture

 

About the belt, the outer caps should be almost edge to edge with the end of the belt. And your trimming of the caps looks good as it is right now.

tkbuil10.jpg

Edited by The5thHorseman
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

So Im looking at this guide and before I cut and drill holes I wanted to make sure I have it right.  (I have not measured anything this is just eyeballing)  ANHHolsterPlacement01.jpg

tkbuild-january-03-2014-2623.jpg

 

I want to make sure the Dropbox's line up with the end of the belt? Or are the rivet covers aligned with the center of the drop boxes?

  • The drop boxes dangle from the sides of the front plastic belt (ammo belt) via white straps and are aligned under the plastic tabs of the ammo belt. 
  • Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box.

I think I need to shorten the belt.

Posted

Yes, you want to align the drop boxes with the end of the belt, like you've placed them on your pic above. But before doing that I think you can shorten both ends of the belt, they're kind of long right now.

med_gallery_12157_11_717737.jpg

 

Your placement of the end caps (the abs buttons which cover the rivets) is good and the holster placement looks fine too.

Posted

What are the male snaps that I use for the butt plate and the right of the Ab plate?  Are these the line 24 snaps?  The pictures I have seen are different then what I have.

Posted

Great progress, very exciting!

 

Thanks, everyone, for all the great reference photos to answer questions :)

Posted (edited)

Split rivets attached.  (Sorry for the distored Picture)  Do these look ok?

photo.jpg

Edited by SpikedGoat
Posted

There's a little issue with your rivets, the lower one on the abdominale plate shouldn't be placed under the ridge between the ab and the cod:

med_gallery_12157_16_598.jpg

 

However, most of the time this rivet isn't visible as there's the belt over it. So i guess i won't be a visual issue once the armor will be complete.

Posted (edited)

Is that a deal breaker for Centurian?   Should I move it?  If I move it I have to move the middle one too to get the spacing right. 

 

This is what i would need to do to fix it?

moves.jpg

Edited by SpikedGoat
Posted

Is this a Centurion stopper? I don't know.

I mean, the CRL states there shall be 6 rivets spaced evenly along the left side of the armor which is the case here... We need the DO's opinion here!

 

But i would say, if you can, yes it would be better to fix it, like you did on your picture above.

Posted

med_gallery_12157_16_598.jpgThe CRL does mention 6 split rivets on the wearers left side. The rivet locations as you have them, Chase, are too far apart stemming from the lowest rivet location. We have so many photo resources here and so many build threads that rivet locations should be accurate with general research. The armor you have is going to need to be painted and a couple small rivet holes are an easy fix. Glue a piece of scrap styrene to the back and fill the hole with body filler or abs paste and sand smooth.

Posted

Before I make the same mistake twice...  

 

How do these holes look?  

tkbuild-january-10-2014-2630.jpg

 

 

I still have alot more painting/sanding/filler work left.

Posted

that's more like it. Make sure you are not too close to the seam. The rivets should sit 10 MM from the seam.

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