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Painting the whole armor?


TheKido

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Hi!

 

I have a few questions regarding painting the whole armor. As it is today my pieces really don't match each other color wise. I've replaced many parts and some of my original parts have started yellowing so this has become very noticeable. I've read older posts where people are both for and against the painting process and my questions are, why shouldn't I paint? what paint should I use? Will it stay in place? Will it affect the possibility to turn it sandy later? and how will the color age? If it makes any different it is ABS.

 

Thanks for help  :)

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There is no problem with painting other than the process is long, tedious and takes a lot of patience!!!!  This process CANNOT be rushed in ANY way.  The main paint that is most commonly used is Rustolium Professional Gloss White. It is in a tall, silver can available at any home center. The primer most commonly used is anything designed for plastic in white. The material are only half the concern. IT'S THE PREP AND THE PATIENCE!!! Many guys who have painted their armor, have washed and scrubbed each piece with a green, kitchen scrubby pad and a mild detergent or with a non greasy degreaser like goof off. This will both knock the gloss off the ABS and de-grease the surface to ensure adhesion. Then comes the primer. One or two coats is fine. NO DRIPS!!!!! If you use two coats, APPLY IT RIGHT AWAY!!!!!! DO NOT WAIT! Then comes the wait. This is critical!!!! Paint dries from the outside in. You NEED TO ALLOW IT TO CURE FULLY AND ADHERE TO THE PARTS. If you rush it or, God forbid, follow the can directions and coat in 24 hours, you will have disastrous results. The paint will lift and crinkle forcing you to strip all parts and start over. I have always allowed AT LEAST 7-10 days before top coating with the gloss white. When this day comes, make sure you have enough paint. Depending on how many coats you apply, 3 cans will safely get you two coats. Painting the top coats needs to be done all at once. Make sure you are prepared with all your parts spread out and supported where they can dry without being touched or touching any surface. DO NOT PAINT ON A WINDY DAY!!!! DO NOT PAINT AT NIGHT WITH A LIGHT. your white armor becomes an attractant for EVERY bug in your area to land on. Ideally, you should paint in temps of about 65-80. If you are painting your armor prior to assembly, You will have in the neighborhood of 30 parts to paint. In higher temps, the paint will dry quickly so you want to break up your parts into three separate groups so you can get all coats applied before the starting coats dry too much. Two to three coats minimum on all parts. I hate to sound "Debbie Downer" repetitive, but I have made these mistakes already!!! ALL COATS MUST BE APPLIED AT ONE TIME. Don't even think that you can come back and re-coat it "later" or after 48 hours. It will lift and crinkle!!!!

After your paint is applied, now you wait. at least another 7 days for proper curing. Don't worry if you don't have a mirror gloss on all your parts. If your armor is destined to be a sandy....you're already golden. If you want "Death Star" ready, you can polish out the dull spots with an automotive compound and a damp cloth. Auto paint compounds are like sandpaper for paint just at a microscopic level.  You WILL remove some paint in doing this ergo your need for several coats and the proper drying time. Don't rub too hard especially on the high spots and edges!! A mirror finish can be achieved here!!! Finish with an auto polish for protection.

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I would say that if you want to do a great job, then doing numerous layers over a period of weeks is the way to go. Mike Appling painted 2 suits for me and the paint was very thick and was incredibly solid. You could even gouge it. Then again, he put down many thin layers and allowed ample curing/drying time.

 

I had another suit that wasn't quite painted as well. The downside is that it needed frequent touch-ups, the upside was that I just took a rattle can and did fast/ghetto painting. Was it perfect & lasted? Nope, but it was sure easy to touch up and go!

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Gaz pretty much said it all. I would suggest using white primer if you can find it, but using grey you can tell if the main gloss is even all around. Just depends on your painting experience. I've done full size cars to plastic model kits for years. 2 different worlds those are.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Make sure you use a proper plastic primer so that it can flex whilst your trooping in it. I've started to do mine in 2-pack paint but it's only going to be for a static display and not for costuming. I've done armour in automotive acrylic which is a bit of mucking around but the end results are great. The beauty of acrylic is that it's very forgiving and if you mark or scratch your armour you can always touch it up and feather the paint in. I'd also suggest clear coating the helmet so that the decals/stickers are protected. Goodluck with your armour mate :)

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I would say that if you want to do a great job, then doing numerous layers over a period of weeks is the way to go. Mike Appling painted 2 suits for me and the paint was very thick and was incredibly solid. You could even gouge it. Then again, he put down many thin layers and allowed ample curing/drying time.

 

I had another suit that wasn't quite painted as well. The downside is that it needed frequent touch-ups, the upside was that I just took a rattle can and did fast/ghetto painting. Was it perfect & lasted? Nope, but it was sure easy to touch up and go!

 

What year did I sell you that suit out of interest?

 

Having seen and held an original suit used for filming now, I have since come to realise how accurate that build was now back in the day. And that was way before most people took me seriously!! I was far ahead of the game even if I do day so myself ;-)

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