tkrestonva[TK] Posted August 11, 2012 Report Share Posted August 11, 2012 Yes, make the cover strip wider so it matches the width of the raised portion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vader Rocks Posted August 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 12, 2012 Made some pretty good progress this weekend I think. Arms and legs should be done aside from adding cover strips (though they did get measured out and cut today). Having a bit of what I'd consider an issue with the snap plates. I made the plates approx. 1" by 1 1/2", my issue seems to be that the thickness of the snaps are not allowing plate to make contact with the armor (i've added pics to hopefully help explain my situation). I've added the small piece of tape to the backside of the snaps as i've seen mentioned in another thread to keep from damaging the armor. Not sure if that is necessary or not. I'm using Line 24 Snaps from Tandy Leather, ABS armor and E6000 for my adhesive. Would this combination cause the armor melting issue?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkrestonva[TK] Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 Instead of using plastic snap plates, a great alternative is to make your snap plates out of nylon webbing or some other non-stretch fabric. That way, it conforms to the shape of the armor part and remains in contact with no problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vader Rocks Posted August 13, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 Thanks Brian. Didn't know if the webbing would be the correct way to go or not. I thought I had read that the webbing wasn't as durable as the plastic, like the webbing stretching out to much and causing fit issues. Do you think the snap melting armor thing is a concern with the materials i'm using for my build? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkrestonva[TK] Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 Some say that metal snaps, E6000, and plastic are a bad combination. Personally, I haven't seen any issues with it. Still, since putting a piece of tape on the backside of the snap is an easy thing to do, might as well do it. After all, an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of (potential) cure. As for durability, as long as it's densely woven, non-elastic webbing (and nylon webbing is typically by default non-stretchable), you shouldn't have any problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-bone[501st] Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 I have glued snaps directly to AM armor before without a tab and it didn't melt it at all. I since changed it, but it worked fine for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
t-bone[501st] Posted August 13, 2012 Report Share Posted August 13, 2012 With e6000 oh and maybe try some stronger clamps... They will bend the plastic enough so they make contact while they dry. I haven't had any pop off (yet) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theisaac Posted August 14, 2012 Report Share Posted August 14, 2012 I had that issue with snap plates as well. What I did was stopped using the little circle thing that comes with the snap kits. I just put the bottom rivet part through the plastic.. placed the snap part over the plastic and lined them up. Used the cement floor instead of the circle thing and hammered the metal pin/rod thing on the snap. Not a technical way to describe it I know... I noticed the circle/round part that comes with snap kits leaves a gap and doesn't make the snap come flush with the plastic. If you use a flat bottom like cement then the metal pin that you hammer down and makes the bottom fold back over the snap and holds it in place will also pull the bottom of the snap up flush with plastic every time. If this doesn't make sense then I can post pics of what Im talking about. Either way the e6000 doesn't cause the same heat that ABS cement does so you don't need to worry about warping. Or just go the other route and use webbing like Brian suggested. He's the AM expert and knows what hes talking about. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GnrlGrievous Posted August 14, 2012 Report Share Posted August 14, 2012 I made snap plates using plastic, glued them on with E6000, and did not experience any warping. But, I do like the idea of using webbing to conform to the shape of the ABS. As for getting the snaps flat, I also ditched the circular pounding thing and used a flat piece of thick metal to pound on to get the back flat. Brian has a thread somewhere that has a lot of helpful pictures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theisaac Posted August 20, 2012 Report Share Posted August 20, 2012 any updates on your build buddy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vader Rocks Posted August 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 22, 2012 Hey Isaac. I did get back to my build tonight, no real new pictures to post though. I've been working on the webbing and getting everything attached. Pretty happy with the progress tonight and this past Sunday. I have to thank Brian for his suggestion, I had problems with the plastic snap plates not sitting flat on the armor, like the pic above so i used the webbing as my snap plates and it's worked awesome so far. All my limbs are done except for cover strips (which two biceps and a forearm are setup to dry this evening), kidney and butt plate are attached. I feel like i'm getting pretty close but I know there's gonna be those little things here and there that still need done. I need to make up shims for my ab to kidney plate caue i'm a little on the bigger side and i've got to figure out if i'm gonna trim the shins or not. After wearing them i'm wondering if they're too tall for me. I had to cut the top off of my thighs because they were too long for me so i'm thinking i've got the same thing going on with the shins. Anyone else have to do this??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theisaac Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 Wait to trim the shins until you are all suited up with your boots on. I can tell you what I did for my shims for my gut.... Took the extra ABS that was for the belt in my AM kit and cut them for the shims. Glued them to the kidney on each side and boom.. done. Left side has the snap rivets to be screen accurate and the right side is open and clam shells together with a row of three snaps and webbing. The fitting process feels like it took as long as the build in terms of time. Don't hesitate to take a ton of pics and put them up here for help. If the FISD can get me fitted right, they can help anyone. good luck and keep going, almost there! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vader Rocks Posted August 23, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 Thanks Isaac. Ill wait to cut the shins, but have a little issue with using the abs strips for the side gap, I used them for the cover strips on my limbs. I picked up some abs pieces from a local hobby store and was going to try using those. Not so sure how close the colors will be but I don't think i'll have to use too much of it so i'll probably try it out and see. After I finished the legs and had strapping done to hold thighs up. Yesterday after I got the bells and biceps situated. And these just arrived this afternoon Still need to round up my neck seal, belt and holster, but i'm getting closer Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theisaac Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 Darman's wife makes really good neck seals and he makes holsters too. one shop.. two parts down. Check him out. For the belt, you can make it with a sewing machine. There are a few threads on here of people doing it. I went down to walmart and got some off white canvas for 5 bucks. Then just cut a piece of plastic and slide that inside the belt on the left side to help support the holster and weight of the blaster. You'll see what I mean when you see the belt thread. Almost there buddy! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vader Rocks Posted August 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2012 Thanks for the words of encouragement Isaac. Was considering getting the belt and neck seal from trooperbay, I've read some pretty good things about his stuff, but not sure on where to get holster yet. I'll have to look into and send some PM's on those you suggeted. Figured i'll use some abs sheets to fill in side gap, but unfortunately only had enough to add to one side this evening. I'll have to make trip to hobby store tomorrow and snag some more. I was thinking side rivets were only required for Centurioun, is this incorrect?? My boots showed up the other day so hopefully I can get the accurate sizing for my shins now. I don't want to add cover strips, sniper plate and ammo belt without fitting them right first. Other forearm has cover strips drying and handplate experiment drying as well. Kidney and ab not attached yet to that's why it's sitting a little low (didn't know it was sitting low when pic was taken) Other than that, I think it's coming along quite well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChantalChaos Posted August 27, 2012 Report Share Posted August 27, 2012 Thanks for the words of encouragement Isaac. Was considering getting the belt and neck seal from trooperbay, I've read some pretty good things about his stuff, but not sure on where to get holster yet. I'll have to look into and send some PM's on those you suggeted. Figured i'll use some abs sheets to fill in side gap, but unfortunately only had enough to add to one side this evening. I'll have to make trip to hobby store tomorrow and snag some more. I was thinking side rivets were only required for Centurioun, is this incorrect?? My boots showed up the other day so hopefully I can get the accurate sizing for my shins now. I don't want to add cover strips, sniper plate and ammo belt without fitting them right first. Other forearm has cover strips drying and handplate experiment drying as well. Kidney and ab not attached yet to that's why it's sitting a little low (didn't know it was sitting low when pic was taken) Other than that, I think it's coming along quite well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChantalChaos Posted August 27, 2012 Report Share Posted August 27, 2012 Whoops! My two year old was admiring your armor (he's obsessed!) and managed to copy all that sorry haha Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theisaac Posted August 28, 2012 Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 Trooperbay is legit. Mike has great customer service and has it all. I know a lot of people use his belts and neckseals so don't hesitate to check them out. I've ordered twice from trooperbay and felt they went above and beyond what I expected. I have Darman's so I can tell you I'm happy with them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vader Rocks Posted August 28, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2012 Cool. I've got a PM sent to Darman last night. No response yet do well see what he says. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vader Rocks Posted September 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2012 Getting closer. Got a few more little things done this weekend. With Isaac's suggestion and encouragment, I decided to go ahead and get the materials and build my own canvas belt (well, kinda. I was able to enlist mom's help with the sewing and assembly. This build has officially become a family affair). Hear are a few pics of the custom belt and the first armor pics out of the house and in public. It gets quite a few looks that's for sure. Even got my first real armor bites today. Rite of passage?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vader Rocks Posted September 4, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2012 Ok, so i've got the canvas belt made, now i'm wondering what the best choice is to secure the plastic part of the belt to the canvas. Do I rivet or can I use snaps to hold them together?? If I can use snaps, what precautions need to be taken to prevent cracking the plastic belt when assembling the snap?? I've used the soldering iron method to make holes in webbing and elastic so far, didn't know if this works for the canvas too or if I need to make the holes with something else?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gmrhodes13[Staff] Posted September 4, 2012 Report Share Posted September 4, 2012 Going well good job, can't wait for my first armor bites Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TrooperTim Posted September 5, 2012 Report Share Posted September 5, 2012 Ok, so i've got the canvas belt made, now i'm wondering what the best choice is to secure the plastic part of the belt to the canvas. Do I rivet or can I use snaps to hold them together?? If I can use snaps, what precautions need to be taken to prevent cracking the plastic belt when assembling the snap?? I've used the soldering iron method to make holes in webbing and elastic so far, didn't know if this works for the canvas too or if I need to make the holes with something else?? Here's what I did: I glued 3 snaps to the inside of the plastic ammo belt - 1 on each side and 1 in the middle. I didn't put the snap through the plastic. The plastic squares on the front are just decorative on my TK. I made 3 holes in the canvas belt and installed the snaps - they line up with the plastic ammo belt. I then glued 2 snaps to the middle of the ab plate, and placed 2 snaps in the middle on the canvas belt (facing the opposite way). The canvas belt and belt box are completely detachable. I usually wash my canvas belt once every year. I've never had my belt crack. If you're installing the snap on your belt, you'll probably use the hammer and anvil method (I don't think snap pliers will reach but give it a shot). Find a wood block or something hard to fill that belt space; doesn't have to completely fit. As long as you have something on the other side of that snap as you hammer, you don't need to worry about cracking. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnnfr72[TK] Posted September 6, 2012 Report Share Posted September 6, 2012 Hi Jim! You're making great progress. I'll be trooping with you in no time! Looks like Tim has you all squared away. Oh, I still get armor bites at my inner elbows! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vader Rocks Posted September 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2012 Ok, I've got my ab buttons painted and going to install them on the ab plate, but i'm confused as to how they attach to the ab. I don't like the way it sits up on the ridges of the ab cause I don't think it'll hold very well. I've seen some posts about cutting/sanding down approx 1/8" but i'm not sure what and where the trim is taking place. Anyone done this trim or have any other suggestions on how to correctly install the ab plate??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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