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TK armor question, please help....I need info


TK_Duke

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Mate to clean it up and get a nice shine use this:

http://www.ebay.com....49#ht_500wt_922

 

My mate has a FX kit and he uses that to polish/clean it and it slowly makes it whiter the more you use it. :)

I'd recommend getting rid of the yellowing before trooping in it. ;) You might need a couple of bottles by the end, but see how it goes.

 

Put up some pics of the blaster and holster for us to check out too. :P

 

T cut is for CAR clear coat finishes. it ADDS COLOR?

 

DONT" USE T CUT.

 

use NOVUS polish on uncoated plastics. if you use T Cut on coated plastic it will remove the UV layer.

 

novus will also remove yellowing and it will keep the original color intact.

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392
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T cut is for CAR clear coat finishes. it ADDS COLOR?

 

DONT" USE T CUT.

 

use NOVUS polish on uncoated plastics. if you use T Cut on coated plastic it will remove the UV layer.

 

novus will also remove yellowing and it will keep the original color intact.

 

As will Novus or ANY abrasive polish over time.

 

But as Vern says, steer clear of T cut as its way to harsh.

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retrobright? are you going to immerse your old FX armor in peroxide?

how many gallons of retrobright would it take to immerse armor?

 

way more than a computer case.

 

and I quote from the retrobright website

 

The “Retr0bright†Project

 

By Merlin, of AmiBay, English Amiga Board and Vintage Computer Forums (among others)

 

How to deal with the “not-so-mellow yellow†of old computers and consoles

 

Anyone who has dug their old computer or console out of the cupboard or loft for some retro gaming will probably have noticed that it maybe hasn’t worn too well with the test of time. The plastics these machines were made of is called ABS and to make it flame retardant (just in case it catches fire after a marathon session) the plastics manufacturers added chemicals that caused the plastic turn yellow or, even worse, brown over a long period of time.

 

It was originally thought that the yellowing was permanent and that the only solution to this was to paint the plastic in its original colour and cover the problem up. However, a chance discovery was made in March 2008, by The CBM Museum at Wuppertal in Germany (http://www.forum64.de), that immersing parts in a solution of Hydrogen Peroxide for a few days could partially reverse the process. This was initially taken up by the Amiga community in Germany (http://www.a1k.org) and the idea eventually found its way to the English Amiga Board (http://eab.abime.net), where a madcap collection of chemists, plastics engineers and retro hackers managed to perfect this concept and put it on steroids, with help from other forums.

 

page below with info on how to make retrobright.

 

Edited by TK Bondservnt 2392
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Mate to clean it up and get a nice shine use this:

http://www.ebay.com....49#ht_500wt_922

 

My mate has a FX kit and he uses that to polish/clean it and it slowly makes it whiter the more you use it. :)

I'd recommend getting rid of the yellowing before trooping in it. ;) You might need a couple of bottles by the end, but see how it goes.

 

Put up some pics of the blaster and holster for us to check out too. :P

Ill give it a shot thank you John, I was told I could make it look weathered also or do a sand trooper.

The blaster im sure is just something he got from a toy shop and painted it black.

Edited by TK_Duke
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Ill give it a shot thank you John, I was told I could make it look weathered also or do a sand trooper.

The blaster im sure is just something he got from a toy shop and painted it black.

 

Nah mate I've been advised that it's bad for the plastic, so I'd avoid T-cut.

Better of going with Novus ABS polish. :) If it is a Hasbro blaster it will have to modified to be 501st acceptable too. :)

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