troopermaster

Here you go

Just so you know, the helmet has 4 teeth cut out both sides. The left hand side 4th tooth is barely cut out but it is. I will dig out a close up of the helmet and show you. Good luck with the build

I have bubble lenses and hard flat lenses available. PM me for a price.

It's a TM hero helmet that I built, so it exceeds all 501st requirements. The original mic tips have been replaced though. Some people just like a really low brow.

Original ANH knee plate for comparison.

1 large front tab, 11 thin strips and 1 medium end tab.

It's there, just a bit hard to see as it's not much wider than the rest of the strips.

The original shoulder straps have a large tab at the front of them and a smaller one at the back. Most replicas have large tabs on both sides that is not accurate and looks better if removed. You will see on all the ANH suits that the straps have about a 5mm border on the sides but none on the front.

Congratulations Great job on the assembly

I wouldn't worry about the sides. There isn't a gap at the top that will be shown so no problem. Put your belt on and there will be no visible gap.

What do the sides look like when you're not wearing the armour? Hang the armour on a coat hanger and the sides should just meet, same with the rest of the parts. The elastic just keeps it all together - there shouldn't really be any tension on the straps.

Definitely not a TM.

Your strapping is too tight which is causing the overlap on your waist. The back section is butted up too tightly as well. The parts want to be loose so the armour can move as you move. I like to leave a small gap between the parts. Regarding the shoulder bridges, glue 3 or 4 of the thin strips onto your chest plate to allow more coverage onto the back plate. I have built armour for people 6' 6" before so it can be done

When you come to glue the inner parts of the forearms to the outer parts, I suggest starting with the back joints first. Depending on how you have trimmed them, the joints can sometimes come to a slight V shape which makes getting a good bond hard, so start with the back first and once dry you can move onto the front joint that has a nice, flat joining surface.

Just saying

Who made the kit? I haven't see this one before.

****

****

Here is a full kit I made for someone recently. I will get some work done on my parts soon and post detailed photos.

****

****

I formed some more parts the other day. Looks like I will have to reload the photos again.

It sounds like you have trimmed them too much.

None of the parts are 'supposed' to be circular. Where did you get that idea from?