troopermaster
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Posts posted by troopermaster
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Paypal is fine. I'll get some made up first and let you see them before we go any further.
Cheers,
-Paul.
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Hi Paul,
I'm going to making a couple this weekend if your interested? 3mm black leather with black and tan straps, just like the real holsters. I wll get some pics up asap. £25.00 posted.
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Hi Del,
The plastic shoulder straps are purely cosmetic. The original armour had them glued to the chest plate only, and were free at the back plate. A thin white elastic strap was sewn to the real shoulder strap which is actually under the armour, and kept the plastic strap 'in place'.. White webbing or canvas approx 40mm-50mm wide that was glued to the back plate and had a snaps along it to attach to a snap on the chest plate. You could put a snap at each end to make it easier. Take a look at my suit to give you an idea.
Cheers,
-Paul.
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Hi Guns
There is another JB over at the RPF who was showing off his cast from an original ESB E-11 stunt blaster. He did a run of these and there might be one or two still available? Check it out HERE
Hey I got my t-shirt today, thanks mate
-Paul.
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john danter said:I got bored so did this to see if it fits ok
Right, I'm off to clean my mirrow now
Looks very good John!
Zit juice gets everywhere...dunnit
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1. I have used those kind of studs in the past and I do not recommend them. They need to be hammered together and can split the plastic as I found out
I use pop rivets made by Draper but any brand should do.
2.
You can see the different sizes in these pics. The strip on the shins at the backs are only glued to the outer parts and just close the gap at the back. Usually they have no black showing but if they do you can add a black elastic strap so it isn't visable. I prefer not to use velcro. I have recently noticed some kind of clips/hooks/fasteners on the originals to keep them closed. I'll get a pic sorted out later.
3. Any haberdashery should have the snaps, or check out ebay
4. ESB helmets had decals. The mouth and vocoder look stain black and I think the ear caps the same as ANH. I have several tins of grey Humbrol that I can check with the decals I have from trooperdecals.com for a decent match.
-Paul.
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I just did a search and found the old website. It links to the new one and I have found the part.
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Alright Simon
I got the brass bar from my local hobby shop. I really wanted small washers but couldn't find any so that was the next best thing. The place used to be called hobbicraft but it has changed name now and can't remember what it is called now. Are you looking to buy some?
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Okay let's see.....
1. Front of thigh and shin strips the same width,20mm as well as the back of the thigh. The back of the shin is 25mm. This is purely what I do and no means 100% correct. (95%
)2. The AP is an ROTJ suit with ANH features and I think if you chopped the joining overlap strips off they would be too short/narrow to fit. I would just simply put the joining strip over the top once they are butted up together.
3. Yes way too many snaps but the first few I put in wasn't right (suit didn't feel right) so I put in a couple more and everything was fine.
4. The original suit's had two snaps under the butt plate. Check out Han in the detention block control centre.
5. The real suit's were 'hinged' from one side and the actors had to slip into them. The opening side has one strap that is riveted in place and a snap on the kidney plate. There could very well be another strap hidden behind the belt but it is not really needed. Once the suit is closed with the side strap, the belt is closed and it feels fine.
6. The snaps for the belt are different and the same shape as the original ones. I did plan to use them for all other parts but they are very small compared to the other ones I use. I suppoes it depends on how accurate you want your suit?
7. The tiny holes are rivets, yes. They are the smallest I could find and had to use brass flat bar to attach them to as I couldn't for the life of me find washers small enough. No worries though, the bar actually hold the elastic better and is much harder to come off. Washers would have been nice though.
Next question
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I 'did' have a nice suprice for you all and was waiting until CE to show off my 3 year old sons mini stormtrooper suit, but he managed to break his arm badly on sunday evening and now we are not going to be able to make it unfortunately
Here is what you could have seen (90% finished in pic)
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Hi Ben,
The arms and legs had joining strips both front and back. The two parts of each peice was butted together and the joining strip was glued on top holding them together...no overlapping! The actual sizes of the strips is anyones guess but I use 15mm for the arms and 20mm for the legs, with the exception of 25mm for the back of the shins.
As for the strapping, they used elastic that was riveted in place and some areas had webbing and snaps. Below is a pic of my armour just to give you an idea. Is it just like the originals?.....I think it's close but no one knows for sure and we have seen no hard evidence as yet of the originals.
Hope that helps!
-Paul.
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Welcome aboard Justin!
Lovin' the blasters mate. Is the top one a real deact? Looks awesome.
-Paul
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I think you can get carbon fibre print/embossed plastic that will vacuum form but I have never heard of the actual carbon fibre been formed. It is moulded just like fibreglass with resin AFAIK. Only thermoset and thermoplastic can be heat formed.
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I am pretty sure that the neck seals on the heros were custom made but the stunt suits look to be rubber/latex neck seals from wet suits. I've been trying to source one of these for a while now but no luck. Plenty of latex seals, but none like what they used for ANH.
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I would love to know who did the original sculpts for ANH. I would also like to know what other sculpts he/she has done since.
You will be able to meet the main man himself at CE and ask him any questions you like. Brian Muir sculpt the stormtrooper armour and Darth Vader helmet too. I met him earlier this year and he's a very nice man and answered all my questions.
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That's tough luck mate, sorry
Blood, sweat and tears are nothing new in the mould making game, at least for me anyway. PM me and I will try and help with your moulds.
Don't give up buddy!
-Paul.
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Hi Chef,
What are you using for the heating elements? Have you taken a pull of any of your moulds yet?
The reason I ask is that you need a very even heat source to cover the entire sheet of plastic otherwise you won't get very good results.
What vacuum source are you using too?
-Paul.
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John that's terrible. What a kick in the teeth huh?
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Did anyone see TE's book and what did they think?
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So, who's going to CE?
I have booked my hotel for the night and will be there on the 13th and 14th (Friday and Saturday). Would be cool to meet up with some of you guys to say 'hi' and have a chat. I would hate to go and miss out on the chance of meeting some of you just because I didn't know you were going to there too. Anyone going?
-Paul.
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I think they used lycra gloves as well as rubber. You could use something like --------------- or similar. I got my suit #308 from the same place and might just order some of these gloves as well as the hood.
I believe the lycra gloves had the hand plates sewn on while the rubber gloves had the hand plates attached like the ROTJ suit's with an elastic band.
-Paul.
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Here you go matey ---------
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I got my full one piece unitard from WWW.SPANDEXMAN.COM model #308 and it's great. You can choose from many different styles and have extras like hoods, gloves, extra zips etc..
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TD=Thermal Detonator or 02 Canister as it's also known. You know, the bit that clips onto the back of the belt
What AB is this
in Build Threads Requireing Maintenance
Posted
Looks like a Marco recast to me.