troopermaster
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Posts posted by troopermaster
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That's coming along nicley G,and always happy to help
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This is the best pic I have of a stormtrooper belt.I haven't heard any hard evidence of the material used,and it's possible that some were leather and some canvas,who really know's?Make up your own mind from this pic
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Well the tops half looks to fit you very well,way better than shorter guys
There's no real set distance between the leg parts.If you watch ANH you'll see lots of different sized actors,some with no gaps at the knees and some with lots.I would try adding a few inches to each part and see how that looks.You'll need bigger gaps at the backs anyway if you plan to walk up steps -Paul.
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I've just bought one from www.spandexman.com for $54.00 model #308 and it's great.Lots of different styles to choose from,with hoods,gloves,feet,extra zips.....Worth the money and very lightweight and stretchy
-Paul.
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I agree,extending the raised edge around the knees would be best IMO.You could rivet extra ABS strips and it would look 'better'.
I believe TKBIG parts were wider and not longer as I recall.
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The pics G has posted are of a 'tour suit' and not an ROTJ.Only the tour suit's had the holes under the eyes and the boots were very similar to the original ANH,with elastic sides and not zips.Another tour suit 'tell' is the vinyl shoulder straps that are riveted to the chest.The ROTJ's had vac formed plastic shoulder straps ane were velcro'd to the chest and back plates.I've also heard that the tour suit's were made from Kydex as opposed to the ABS(?) for the ROTJ's
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I have a similar belt under my armour.It's a leather belt with elastic straps for the thighs and velcro tabs.I use elastic for all my straps on my arms and legs,all have velcro and never come loose.Here's a drawing I made a while back showing my strapping for the arms and legs.Works very well and main body armour can be taken off without removing any of the arm and leg armour.
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You could try a canvas/webbing strap like this.
For the ab plate,TK8020 got it nailed with the ABS to fill the gap
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I'm sure you could pick up some thick HIPS or ABS at your local hobby store.I use .100 but .80 would still be strong enough for the tabs.E6000 will stick HIPS to ABS,or any other plastic for that matter
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CA glue is good for nothing IMO.E6000 all the way
If your going for the snap'n'strap system,you can make your tabs with the male snaps on and tape them in place while test fitting to make sure they are in the right place.Just wear the suit for while and try doing things in the house,you'll soon know what wants adjusting.Then just move the tabs inside and try again,once happy commit to gluing.I'll give you a tip though,if your making the plastic tabs,only glue the ends of the plastic and not the metal snap!It's been my experience that when you clip the tabs in with grips it will melt the plastic where the metal snap is if you put glue on the snap.Another thing,you will never be able to move really freely in your armour so don't try too hard making it too comfortable,it won't happen
As long as the pinching is down to a minimum,I would be happy with that!-Paul.
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I bought a cheap holster from ebay and modified it to fit my resin cast E-11(from a real sterling).I've made my own template below for anyone who wishes to have a go at making their own
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Yup,rivets are best IMO but you can get these small allen head bolts that look like rivet heads on one side but use a nut and washer on the other so it's not 'permanently' attached.
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Looks a bit big to me,but a good effort.
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Cool! Looking forward to seeing what you come up with
I might have a go at forming the box.Do you reckon it's the same thickness as the plastic belt front or slightly wider?I'm guessing 4" square,with the backing plate maybe 4" x 6".I could do with some nice screen caps or pics before I start.
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Great idea.
I don't think that the hook would need to work,just look good on the belt.I mean,it's not like it's going to be used is it,so looking nice on the belt would be fine for me.I would be up for one if they turn out nice
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Actually the chest is supposed to have a lip on the bottom and the sides.These lips are where the straps are riveted for the interior strapping on the originals.Don't worry about it though,unless your going for 100% authenticity
Most of the original arms didn't have any 'lines of illusion' either,just rough cut.I see a lot of people leaving lips on their arm parts but they dig into me so I don't bother with them. -
I made my own clips from 1" flat aluminium bar.Very simple to make,just bend a piece around you canister and leave a 3" flat spot to clip onto you belt.
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Welcome aboard Tony
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Yes I would say so.You could try drawing a tube stripe decal first with 15 stripes on and then trim it down (if neccesary) to what fits on your tubes.When I paint mine on,I think I mark the stripes at 4mm thick with a 5mm space,but you can experiment (as I do) with different sizes
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I think the average is 13,but I've seen as little as 11 and as much as 15 so far.Some have more on one side and less on the other,usually just one stripe difference
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Well if you are going for accuracy then you have to paint EVERYTHING
Just look at the originals and they are not perfect so don't worry about trying to make them look like decals.If you are half decent with a paint brush you will be fine.What I do is paint the black outlines first in the traps,tears and ear caps,then when that's dry fill in with the grey and making a neat line.I make the black line thicker than I want it so I can go over it with the grey to a nice thin line.
For the mouth and vocoder,I free hand them both and have reference pics printed out to help me.I start off with the basic shape and work outwards making the the area's wider until I'm happy with the shapes.
For the tube stripes these are more tricky.I place two strips of masking tape down each tube about 16mm apart and then mark out the stripes on each piece of tape.It's a fiddley,time consuming job but the end results are worth it.Once marked all 13 (or however many you intend) I use a 2 pence piece and draw around it making a nice curve.Then I free hand the blue paint into these lines/stripes.Once dry remove the tape and you have a nice set of hand painted stripes.None of the original stripes are even spaced or even thickness,so don't worry about them being perfect!
Take you time and let the paint fully dry or you'll ruin it.Use Humbrol paints or equivelent.
-Paul.
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0.060=1.5mm
0.080=2.0mm
0.100=2.5mm
0.120=3.0mm
That is the guage in inches to millimeters.
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I would suggest that you do a lot of test fitting before you commit to gluing.With the biceps,make sure there's enough room to be able to flex your muscles,and with the forearms,you can get your hand through the wrist end comfortably.Sounds obvious I know,but it's an easy mistake to overlook if you rush things.I use gaffa tape to stick the parts together and test fit,then trim off half what you think and try again until it's a good fit.Don't have the armour figure hugging,it should be loose and not restrictive,well that's how I prefer mine anyway.Just take your time,do lot's of test fitting and you'll be fine.It doesn't matter if it take you a few weeks to get it right,it will be worth the exyra effort in the long run
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Good to see you over here Phil
Doesn't matter one bit whether you prefer to be a TK or TD.We are all troopers under the armour,just different detachments that's all.We all love stormtrooper armour and if you want to be clean or dirty,that's your choice.The main thing is we all love wearing white plastic armour and to have fun!
-Paul.
I found a modified ethylene vinyl acetate copolymer resin
in Assembly, Mods, and Painting
Posted
Very interesting
So how do you make the stuff?Is it a case of mixing it up and laying it into a mould?Do you need any special equipment to use this stuff?
I've been searching/testing different plastics too but for vacuum forming.If this resin can be made to different hardness' then I think you might be onto a winner!
Now,where do I get it from
-Paul.