troopermaster
-
Posts
3,638 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
12
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Articles
Media Demo
Posts posted by troopermaster
-
-
1 hour ago, TheSwede said:
Anovos do sell helmet kits.
Maybe so, but that face plate is not Anovos and the shoulder bridges are very soft. Could actually be an RS. I'd have to see more parts to have a better chance of positively identifying the maker of the kit. Either way, building it is the same no matter who made it.
-
1
-
-
3 hours ago, ForeverFanFirstTimeRecruit said:
She was told it was "Anovos" armor.
It's definitely not Anovos. It's an RS recast - most likely a TE, but there are so many recasters out there making armour that it's hard to say for sure.
-
1
-
-
All ANH helmets are held together with 4 rivets. 1 on each side behind the ear caps and 1 on each side at the base of the ear caps, as in the photo posted above.
-
2
-
-
You need 7 single cap/tubular rivets so they will have sent 1 spare. 3 for the plastic ammo belt to canvas, 2 for the thigh ammo strap and 2 for the drop boxes (1 each). No washers were used on the original armour.
-
2
-
-
I have a pair of ESB hand guards available in the same ABS Anovos uses.
-
Option 2 is the right way to go.
The parts may not line up correctly but that's just how it is. I'm not sure who made your armour but it looks like either RS or Anovos (both same moulds) and the original RS armour had identical shins made up of 2 x left outer parts and 2 x right outer parts. Rob (of RS) made some inner parts by reshaping casts from the outer parts and these are the ones you have paired together currently as the left shin with sniper knee plate attached. Your right shin is made of the correctly shaped outer parts, so swap your right inner over to your left outer and that's the way they should be paired up.
-
3
-
-
5 hours ago, chiefbonan said:
Wait do I have both of the inside ones as one leg and both of the outside ones as the other?
Yes you do.
-
1
-
-
I don't know why you FISD staff always focus on the sides of the knee plate lining up with the ridges on the sides of the shin, making the front pate stick inwards towards your knee. It's madness. The ends of the knee plate should blend into the shin top ridge as best you can - not follow the angle. More importantly is the front of the knee plate is glued flat to your shin - not angled. I know some knee armour can be tricky to fit but it's simple when you don't have to incorrectly follow the angle of the top of the shins with the knee plate.
Red line - bad. Blue line - good.
Real deal.
-
2
-
-
Either way is fine.
-
4 hours ago, ABS80 said:
Looks perfect now, the refference Glen used I think is a ROTJ TD completely different , ANH TD have less gaps and the end caps are thicker, to be safe only use ANH refference photos
WOW! If you don't know the difference between an ANH and ROTJ detonator by now, I would refrain from commenting. Both detonators Glen posted are ANH and are the same one, except one photo was taken when it had paint on and the other with paint removed, but both are 100% ANH.
This is an ROTJ for your future reference. Let me know if you need more help identifying any trooper parts
-
3
-
-
Mark's right. The heat created by drilling out the rivet will melt the plastic if not done slowly and leave a hole the size of the rivet head. I prefer to use a large drill bit and drill into the rivet head in stages, meaning drill for a short while then let the rivet cool, then repeat until the head comes off. You don't want to drill right through the rivet - just take the head off and the rivet will come out the other side.
-
1
-
-
9 minutes ago, ABS80 said:
Yes 1.5" would be a good compromise though 2" looks closer to screen accurate but personally I find 2" a bit to far off center
If you do the scaling, the rivets vary between 30mm to 40mm away from the end of the ammo belt. That's 1 3/16" to 1 37/64" in your language
-
1
-
-
7 minutes ago, ABS80 said:
Drilling out the rivet will melt the plastic so I wouldnt suggest that
Mark (AP)
Drill a bit, let it cool, Drill again, let it cool. Drill again and out it comes without melting.
-
2
-
-
Awesome!
I need some of these. Sending PM
-
These may not be the best photos but you can see the silver lines do not represent the original shape of the thigh tops. The silver lines were drawn keeping the same distance all the way around the top of the thigh, going in from all angles. The black like represents the original shape much better. The black line was drawn keeping the pen vertical from the top edge. I simply used my finger as a spacer and kept my hand parallel from my table, making sure I only took the height off the thigh - not the width.
-
3
-
-
I will take some photos and post them to show what I mean.
-
1
-
-
8 hours ago, Sly11 said:
I use a technique where you attache a 2B pencil to an eraser or small piece of wood with an elastic band. You then run the block around the outline of the top of thigh and scribe a line in the exact same shape as the original shape you simply hold the block and pencil at an angle so the tip of the pencil contact the surface and away you go.
You can use the same technique to shorten the shins from the bottom.
I'll get a photo up when I have a minute and it will make perfect sense.
You can do this but you must keep the pencil and wood/eraser/spacer vertical along the top of the thigh or you get the weird shape.
-
3 hours ago, TK20187 said:
If you cut the tops of the thighs following the blue tape, you will lose the original shape. I have seen many people do this and their thighs look bad. The best way is to mark out the tops of thighs by following the tops vertically, so you keep the original shape. This way your thighs will look the same shape they did before you trimmed them, just shorter.
-
5
-
-
I would have gone with 25mm on the front strips to give you a bit of extra room. You look like you need it. You can spread the shins apart at the top and taper down towards your ankles to give you more room.
-
2
-
-
To clarify, you have both outer parts on your right leg and both inner parts on your left leg as in this configuration below.
This is how they should look below.
-
5
-
-
You've got them paired up wrong. You have two outer parts together and two inner parts together.
-
1
-
-
4 hours ago, ImperialLoyalty342 said:
I also have confirmation that it is not e6000 as @troopermastersaid.
What you you talking about? Where did I mention E6000?
I said RS uses SUPERGLUE!
-
1 hour ago, ABS80 said:
Paul
You know which parts are fan sculpt? I might be wrong but the shoulder straps, main belt, drop boxes, belt caps, ammo thigh and hand plates look fan sculpt
Mark (AP)
Yes, the shoulder straps, knee plate, ab buttons and hand plates were supplied by me from my old set of moulds. The left bicep and forearm, main ammo belt, thigh ammo strap, drop boxes and belt rivet covers were sculpted by Rob. He did sculpt the missing inner parts to the shins but has gone back to using doubled up parts. The sculpted shin parts are why Anovos have funky shins.
-
1
-
-
The left arm is a fan sculpt.. Not many people know this but the RS is about 3/4 cast from an original and not 100% like they would have you believe.
I don;t think there is much you can do about the shape. Just make it fit as best you can as mentioned.
-
2
-
ForeverFan's ANH Anovos Stunt build
in ANH Build Threads
Posted
How do the bridges come from RS out of the box?
Remember that Anovos is a cleaned up recast of RS - that I am 100% sure of. The Anovos bridges in the photo you posted is showing the backside and they look almost the same, just sharper, which is typical of all Anovos parts.