troopermaster
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Posts posted by troopermaster
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The teeth look to be the same, with just the 4th and 5th holes filled in. The join were the tubes meet the respirator look to be filled in too slightly, probably to ease mould removal.
Don't forget the eyes too. They are trimmed right out and not deep like background helmets.
I reckon all the deep parts, or anywhere where the plastic could lock down on the moulds was filled or modified so the ABS would be easier to remove. The HDPE was more flexible so deeper undercuts wasn't much of a problem, where the ABS was less forgiving.
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Congratulations on a job well done John
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I made this pic to compare to a real helmet.
I think you are refering to the bump on the right eye. The tears are parts under the eyes that are painted grey.
On the real helmets, the bump is only part of the flashing on the inside. It looks more pronounced the more the face plate is squished and not as noticable on some helmets. The assembly will play a big part on how much the HDPE flexes.
The AP helmets have this area over exaggerated IMO.
I handled an AP helmet for the first time last weekend at the 'Spaceport' exhibition, and these helmets are over modified and smaller than I thought.
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Joe's still active on the MEPD and RPF.
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I used to have really long hair too. I had it cut short before I got into armour, but I would have put it in a pony and tucked it into my neck seal. I think that should do the trick
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The new pic looks better
I've no idea why they are shaped differently. None of the parts are mirrored pieces for each side like you would imagine they are. Just look at the forearms, one is slightly longer than the other and has more indents.
I used to think that several people must have sculpted the armour for it to be so assymetrical, but one person sculpted the whole suit.....Brian Muir. I'll ask him about it next time we meet
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I like what you've done in the pic and think it does look good. Unfortunately though, the left thigh is not right and does have a peak unlike the right hand side.
Not the best pic, but you can see on the short guy in the middle how the left thigh 'peaks'. I have better pics on a disc somewhere that I will dig out.
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I see what you mean now mate.
Looks like I will be doing some more tweaking. I've actually been doing some retooling of my most of my moulds since I received some HD screen caps from RoCKo. Only very slight changes but that is what it's all about for me. That's the fun part, researching and finding new things, and ways to improve.
Like I said, any constructive comments most welcome
BTW, that first pic, the thighs are different shapes from left to right so you cannot compare the tops as they are different from each side if you look closely.
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the "pinch" on the top of tighs
What do you mean by "pinch"?
Please explain how you think they differ from the original ANH thighs and not comparing them to other replicas. I am always open to suggestions and constructive criticism
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Look HERE ....no screws.
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Pics of the detonator can be found HERE
Ear were glued onto the helmets and the forearms are replicas, because these were missing from the original suit along with the hand plates.
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Why rubber over metal washers?
Well, a rubber washer would give you some amount of 'play' if the mic tips were knocked and not crack the thin area.
The mic tip area is notorious for being thin due to the shape when the plastic is pulled into the cavitiy. You could try heating up a piece of scrap ABS and applying it over the crack on the inside. This should at least give you a bit more strength when glued in place.
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Better still, use a rubber washer
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I leave a small lip at the back, about 1/4".
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Airsoft forums would be your best bet mate.
I have a CA M4A1 w/M203 which I bough on ArniesAirsoft, but I think you have to be a member to browse the forum.
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Yes there are two seperate shoulder bells, one with the swoop and the other without. Mike is right about the inconsistancy of the suits too. From what I have read, the troopers had to grab what they could before filming and the results were troopers wearing stuff on the wrong arms, legs or both. From looking at both bells side by side, the strips both seem to slope backwards (opposite from each other) so it looks as though the swoop is designed for the left arm while the non-swoop is for the right. That of course is purely speculation on my part, but there is definately two different bells.
Mike, the sandtroopers did have the swoop. I'll see if I can find a decent pic.
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I built my canister as close to the originals. From what I can see, they used flat aluminium bar that was bent to shape and riveted in place. TE said that the clips are 1 1/4" wide. I used 1" originally, then changed to 1 1/4" but I think the bar I use is slightly thicker than the originals, but is all I can get (so far).
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Thanks for sharing this with us Matt
Now, any chance of one of those DVD's from the archives
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Very nice display Michael
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I really wanted to build the brian r helmet, but nobody has any good pics that I could find.
There are pics floating around somewhere like the in the comparisons between Gino and Dave.M, but with Brian.R and Dave.M from the same angles. I did have them but they were lost when my computer got wiped.
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The sharpness/softness wouldn't make any difference to the overall size of the dome. Here is the pic I was sent a while back showing where the 29" measurement was taken from. As you can see, it is at the very lowest point of the dome without going onto the back plate or over the brow trim.
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TE2: base 30" (measured just above brown trim)
That's interesting. The measurements I was given of the TE without the brow trim on and measured at the lowest point of the dome was 29". How come the TE2 is bigger?
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Some troops had white soles while others had black in ROTJ. I think they even had beige soles outdoors on Endor. I believe they used a different type of chelsea boots with grips on the soles for outdoors, rather than the smooth soles which would have sent the actors flying in the woods
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IIRC (and again maybe wrong) but werent the AP helmets shipped from the same physical address?
Same address as what Jez....the armour? I am not sure what you meant by that comment
ANH ear cap paint question
in Assembly, Mods, and Painting
Posted
My technique for the ear caps is to paint the black out line first and then the grey. I use a fine tip brush and make the black line thicker than I want it, and work outwards, making sure I get it as straight as I can. Then when that's dried, I fill in with the grey. Again, working outwards carefully and going over some of the black until you have a nice, even black border.
It's actually pretty easy to do and no masking is needed (if you have a steady hand). Try making the black border smaller at first if you want to test your hand. You can always paint over it to the proper size and it will cover easily.
I use Humbrol #21 black gloss and #5 Admiralty Grey.