DocDan

I tackled the ear squares. They had not been painted yet with the black outlines...

@gmrhodes13 OK-got it. I can try to scrape some of the gum overlap off. I'm planning on applying the correct cheek decals and tube decals as well. Is there a certain way to apply the side tube decals or just put them on like the ANH ones that are currently on there?

While the shins are clamped and curing, I decided to get to the detail work of the MTK helmet. Whoever had it before me tried to clean the black frown off and the vocoder, plus it has the ANH cheek decals that will have to be replaced. I started by paining in the vocoder area with the proper Humbrol paint: You can see how the paint was removed on the frown and vocoder. I traced out the vocoder as to where I should paint: The finished frown and vocoder: I'll work on the cheek decals and the ear squares next.

@gmrhodes13 Isn't it a thing of beauty?! 😆

Found time to glue the cover strips to the front of the shins! Right: Left:

Worked on trimming the shins today. I measured 10mm in from each ridge enough for the 20mm cover strip... Fine tuned them to fit tight... Also tried them on with the boots and wrapped the backs and made a pencil line for where it will overlap. Divided that measurement and trimmed...

Thanks guys! I will look again at the contours. I am following Tony’s build thread @gmrhodes13. These were pre-trimmed when I got this kit and there were no Anovos number stickers on them so that is why I want to make sure I have these correct.

I am going to start the shins next. However, I am finding it difficult to match them up. I thought I had them correct but now not sure. This is what I have..

Strips all glued to the forearms!

I was able to get some work done on the biceps and forearms. I finished glueing cover strips on the biceps: I made the inside strap hooks according to Tony's build: ...and used CA glue to attach them:

Great @gmrhodes13 thanks! I wanted to check before I applied e6000. That will be next. How does this bicep look?

Got some work done on the forearm seams. How do these look, Especially the outward visible ones with the ridges? How do the cover strips look as well?

Thanks @JBar John. I appreciate that and am actually doing the same thing on my forearms. (side note: I do a fair amount of troops with Garrison Excelsior!)

Starting to mark the return edges for fine trimming. Let me know if these lines look correct please? Forearms Bicep

Replaced the TD screws. ?

Thanks for pointing that out! Easy fix for me as I have some slotted screws hanging around. I will go ahead and glue the top abs part to the tube as well.

I worked on the TD yesterday. I made sure the overall length is 7.25” and the screw heads were painted black. I have not glued the top plate on yet but if it looks good as it is, I will do so.

Thanks Glen! I see they have these decals on Trooper Bay. I’m assuming these are the ones?

Hi team! Well, I kind of fell into this helping another in our garrison finish his ANH kit. He had originally purchased this one then found another that was built a bit to a taller frame…so this one was just laying around. I had been tinkering with an OT kit and thought ESB would be different plus I was always drawn to that film ? Most everything seems to be trimmed and the MTK bucket is put together(that needs some touch up to the teeth and vocoder black paint areas. It also needs the ear boxes outlined in black. Please let me know if you see something out of the ordinary.

Welcome @0megaRed! We hope to see you in our neck of the woods!

I used e6000 to glue my straps to the inside of the thighs-still holding! @JmTrooper

Nice work so far Jim! My helmet hits my yoke if I turn to far to the right or left. I adjusted my padding in the helmet and it made it a bit better.

Nice! This is build I started with as well for my first armor in the 501st. I learned a lot. I'm sure I will build another one of these down the road.

Nice work so far! Glad you tested the yolk with magnets first for fitment-I did the same thing so I could get a feel for it. I think that overlap on the yolk will be fine. I had a butt joint on mine however, it was a 3 piece set-up from WTF. I used Devcon and then Proflex to blend the joint.

@daryldoak The yoke looks pretty good with the overlap in your photo-you want a couple inches for strength AND for the side wings to be able to velcro to the back part of the yoke.