Mad Dog 20/20
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Posts posted by Mad Dog 20/20
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I will most likely go with double snap method like you did. I've seen some use industrial strength Velcro to attach armor.
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On 6/6/2013 at 4:33 PM, zebrabuse said:
OK let me clarify.... "Not trying very hard"
I had a good laff looking at those.
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On 10/30/2019 at 5:40 AM, justjoseph63 said:
Definitely.
Just not shiny and no pearl handled grips, please.
How about alligator skin holsters?
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Someone on here told me that the bracket system can crack the return edges that they are fastened to.
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On 4/5/2017 at 3:20 PM, djmatrix09 said:
Okay, so making this a two day build, I needed to hit it with automotive clear coat to protect the paint. Upside is, the paint is sealed. Downside is, it's shinier.
I really wanted a charging spring in the channel, so I went to Home Depot and got some 18ga picture frame wire. Wrapped it around a piece of pvc pipe:
Then I flattened it out:
Then, after taping the channel with Masking tape, I used two small Allen wrenches to elongate the spring in the charging channel:
So there you have it, my TWO day build.
Awesome build. I too am moding a Rubies. So on the spring, was the pvc pipe you wrapped it around approximately the same diameter as the blaster? Also the thinner wire makes it easier to snake into the slot?
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On 6/11/2014 at 10:44 AM, Stormy1992 said:
I know that TKBoots are the thing to get, but often with a wait list i wanted to go a different route, and also paint the black boots white how the costume people of starwars did!
Did you just use fabric paint?
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11 minutes ago, justjoseph63 said:
You may be out of luck there, Alan. That post is from Feb. of 2016. I know you are aiming for Centurion, but the Hasbro blasters are not permitted at Level 3, not even conversions. Unfortunately this is not an inexpensive hobby, but there are alternatives!
The Hasbro will get you to Level 2 with modifications (see below from the CRL) but what I would do is this:
1. Find files for a 3D printed one, but know that the print lines must be sanded down/filled.
2. Doopydoos makes an outstanding resin E-11 kit that if built correctly will get you to Level 3. (It's actually a fun build but takes time). Sadly, they are often out of stock. What you can do on their site is sign up for notification when they are available. When you receive that email from them, order immediately, as they sell out quick! https://www.doopydoos.com/stormtrooper-e-11-complete-anh-e-11-blaster-kit-offer-2685-p.asp
If you want to take it to the next level of accuracy, you can get one of Tino's @T-Jay E-11 finishing kits. These are the BOMB, and he is a great seller! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/28444-fs-completion-sets-for-e-11-resin-kits-with-worldwide-tracked-shipping-and-paypal/
Will a Rubies one work for level one? I'm moding it to look realistic.
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On 2/12/2016 at 2:57 AM, PlayfulWolfCub said:
I think everyone loved the resin Power Cylinders I actually sent out. The problem was that I throw lots away because they weren't good enough.
Plus I had to do more work on the ones I assembled for people than the price justified.
I need the "budget kit" to be consistent quality and not require me to do much work on it - otherwise it stops being "budget".
I hadn't thought of people using resin Cylinders on metal builds but that would be a cool benefit
Don't throw them away. Send me some. I'll gladly pay you for shipping if you are in the States.
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On 4/30/2015 at 12:40 PM, 87ninefiveone said:
I'm not sure if I should be replying to a pinned post like this or not, but what's the verdict on the wires being included from FISD staff? The CRL doesn't cover it and it appears as though movie blasters may or may not have had them included. So, would including them which seems unpopular based on EIB and Centurion applications be okay or not? Is it just left up to individual GMLs?
I like the look and frankly I've already installed them on my build, but I'd rather make changes before applying for basic rather than get turned down and have to fix it before reapplying.
New recruit here. Just now seen this thread. I'm in the process of moding a rubies E11 blaster. I'm just going to make my own power cylinders and and add some curly wires to them and I think they will look kick @*$. Since not all E-11s from ANH had them
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I got myself a cheap Rubies E-11 blaster on the way that I will be modifying to look realistic. Also my buddy found one at Goodwill for a buck that he gave me. Now I can be a two gun gunslinging Stormtrooper!! Ha ha ...just kidding
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On 2/26/2017 at 6:56 PM, pattrooper said:
welcome aboard...from another old fart
Another Old Fart to soon join the ranks here
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10 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:
Great news, now the wait begins, time to do some build research, go through the CRL (costume reference library) https://databank.501st.com/databank/Costuming:TK_anh_stunt , reference gallery https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/gallery/category/24-anh-tk-reference/ and also @justjoseph63 reference image depository https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48335-quick-crl-reference-guide-for-your-ot-build-pics-notes-tips/
Looking forward to seeing those BBB photos
I've been talking with justjoseph63 . he has been very helpful as all of you have been.
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So I've been gathering all the tools I have to start my build and not having to buy extras that I don't need. Most of my "credits" will be spent on fasteners and such.
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31 minutes ago, gmrhodes13 said:
Would be a lot of work but screen accurate to show a clear separation and would be needed for L3
Nice work with the cutting template.
Really up to the DO's you could reach out to them for confirmation, you can see a separation in you chest plate but it is a little soft so wouldn't hurt to check. Depending how thick the ABS is you may be able to run a file (or sandpaper) down the recess to make it a little sharper, but I wouldn't attempt it unless it's really thick.
If you do decide to cut and add backing to join back together just note there is no separations on the return edges
These TKs are growing on me =')
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3 hours ago, ImperialLoyalty342 said:
Welcome! There are plenty of reputable vendors that you can buy kits from that are listed on here as said before. I would stick to those or even go to the pre-approval area and check out those that have bought from all kind of different vendors that will make it to approval.
Personally I wonder which part of Wisconsin are you from? I am a soon to be TX for Bloodmoon Squad!
https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/193-request-tk-pre-approval/
Bloodmoon Squad!! That's a double Bad name. :-) way kooler than the name of garrison I'm joining . I ordered my armor from Dave's Darkside Depot. He's one of the vetted armorers. Very helpful with all my questions.
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1 hour ago, Coastertk said:
I use 1.5” black elastic for my strapping. After folding the ends over (double thickness) it is still thin enough to set snaps. They also allow for a bit of stretch should you ever attempt sitting. Less likely to “pop” a snap off during a troop.
Use a garter system to hold your thighs up. A belt with two elastic straps hanging down with snaps connecting to your thighs.
Kool. Thanks
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33 minutes ago, justjoseph63 said:
Dye will rub off onto your armor and discolor it without a doubt, and removing it is next to impossible. Cotton belts are probably too thick to effectively get the snaps through to properly set them, and the ends (unless sewn) will fray over time. Nylon is the way to go. Thin, strong, and the ends can be sealed with a Bic lighter or soldering iron.
Thank you sir. I can use my belt to hold up my thigh armor.
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54 minutes ago, justjoseph63 said:
The bucket will come with all the correct hardware from Dave, so all you should need are the split rivets for the ab/kidney. I don't sell the snaps, but if you like I can send you a set of the correct rivets (including washers) and TD (Thermal Detonator) screws for $3.00 plus $4.00 postage (They have to be sent as a package, but it includes tracking). Just PM me if interested.
AAwesome thank you
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4 minutes ago, justjoseph63 said:
To be honest, although it takes a bit of time and effort making your own is really not that difficult. The various sizes/lengths of nylon webbing, elastic and snaps can be purchased either online (like ebay) or at a craft store like Joanne Fabrics or Michael's.
I have the list of materials you will need in my Supplies thread and a tutorial here.
I know at one time Sarah @Alay was selling a whole pre-made kit, but you may want to contact here to make sure those are still available.
I guess I meant by fasteners is all the snaps and rivets and screws. I'm going with the strap method to fasten my armor together. Do you still sell all of the hardware?
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Do the straps have to be nylon? What about heavy cotton, as long as they are black. I have some old heavy cotton belts I thot about using but I will have to dye them black.
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1 hour ago, justjoseph63 said:
I would steer well clear of the one from Hytech Toyz, Alan. I bought on years ago (I doubt they have changed much, if any), used it one time and tossed it. Many troopers do well with a 10 watt Aker amp and a headset (or throat style) microphone. It doesn't change your voice too much, but is solid and reliable.
AAwesome. Thank you for the good advice. I will look into it. I can't wait for my BBB day =') where is the best place to get all of the snaps and fasteners at. I've seen some places to get all of them from one source.
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On 7/15/2014 at 7:29 PM, gamesforbreakfast said:
A few people have asked for some more details regarding my voice setup.
I bought a set of LXT600VP3 Midland Walkie Talkies open box from Amazon, they were around $30. Midland makes a bunch of these at various price ranges, I went with the LXT600VP3 because it has a low power mode for short ranges (like 2 inches in my case), and it comes with rechargeable batteries. These are velcro'ed into my chest plate, with the speaker facing my body. With the ab plate on, it lifts the torso up high enough to prevent the walkie's speaker from being muffled by my chest. My ATA bucket is really cramped, but you could potentially shove the broadcasting walkie in there if you wanted the audio coming from your helmet.
One of the walkies is plugged into a Midland Throat Mic, this is your broadcaster, keep the volume turned down/off. You could use a traditional mic, but a throat mic won't have any problems with feedback, or fan noise, and you're free to take your bucket on and off without wires getting in the way. The second walkie is your receiver, crank up the volume, and make sure both are set to the right channel. You can turn on VOX mode on the broadcasting walkie, or use push to talk (PTT) button that is built into the throat mic. The cord is a bit short but can reach your belt or anywhere on your torso or ab plate. PTT sounds a little better, as VOX can clip your first syllable, but being hands free is pretty damn convenient (just remember to switch off your walkie before complaining about the child you almost tripped over).
My neck seal actually makes the mic sound better as it holds closer to my larynx, it's no more uncomfortable than normal.
Im going to check our this set up. Awesome
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1 hour ago, MaskedVengeance said:
The TrooperTalk iOS app seems to be pretty popular, but still requires an amp, as does the iComm system, which is more costly. There are several threads discussing these options.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkI will have to look for them
Centurion builds
in Off Topic
Posted
That is why I'm glad for your help good sir