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QUICK CRL Reference Guide for your OT build. Pics, Notes & Tips.

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                                                                      Quick reference guide for armor used in



TVKSIVm.png?1       G31HDgX.png?1      HwmTvYF.png?3


                                                                  :tkbig:  ********   Otherwise known as the OT (Original Trilogy)   ********  :tkbig:


Whether you are aiming toward Basic 501st approval, Expert Infantry or Centurion level, the FISD Gallery section is an invaluable resource for information containing hundreds of images of screen captures and film used armor.  However, searching for the exact reference you are looking for can take a lot of time, especially for those seeking higher levels of accuracy or approval.


This thread contains edited versions of those images and is designed to be a quick reference It also contains notes and CRL (Costume Reference Library) requirements as applicable, but does not contain them all.  For complete info. you can view the various costumes here:  CRL



Please be aware when applying for higher levels that the Deployment Officers do not depend solely on the CRLs when reviewing submissions.  Screen caps and reference images are also taken into consideration.  When in doubt, always feel free to contact any member of the D.O. Staff for assistance... we are here to help!


               The costume categories are shown as ANH (A New Hope) Stunt, ANH Hero, the Empire Strikes Back (ESB) and Return of the Jedi (ROTJ).


Items for Basic 501st approval will be listed as Basic 


Items for Expert Infantry approval will be listed as Level 2


Items for Centurion approval will be listed as Level 3


Requirements from the various CRLs  will be shown like this:   bold, italicized in white, and may be paraphrased for brevity.


Comments will be listed as Notes: or Important:



                                                                      TO SEE A PARTICULAR AREA, JUST SCROLL OVER IT BELOW AND LEFT CLICK ON IT!


                                                HELMET                                             ARMOR                                                     BOOTS/HOLSTER

                                            Brow Trim                            Chest/Back Plate                                                                   Boots

                                            Ear Placement                     AB/Kidney/Posterior plates (including strapping                  Holster

                                            Ear Screws                           Belt (ABS-Canvas) and Drop Boxes  

                                            Ear Bars                               Shoulder Bells

                                            Tears/Traps                          Biceps/Forearms 

                                            Frown                                  Thighs/Lower Leg Armor 

                                            Tube Stripes                        Thermal Detonator (TD)  

                                            Hovi Tips                             Gloves/Hand Guards 



                                                       DOWNLOADABLE PDF for PRINTING:  Courtesy of Caleb (MaskedVengance)




This will be an ongoing project and more photos will be added.  I have locked the topic, but if you have any reference images you would like to see added, please feel free to PM me.  Thanks for looking, and I hope this helps!  :salute:


          SHOUT OUT to Mark (sskunky) of CFO for providing me with some great photos of his screen used ROTJ armor.  THANKS!


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                                                                             BROW TRIM


In looking at the images below, notice that the ANH-Stunt brow generally sits higher above the eye openings, while the Hero brow typically tends to sit lower.

                                                                                                      ANH Stunt


                WI2bP5F.jpg?1  Mcn1ygN.jpg?1  oZJo3tr.jpg?2


                                                                                                       ANH Hero


                       gPW67ck.jpg?1   KzPKam5.jpg?1  vCMA48e.jpg?1




      EXjCOlo.jpg?1  tJyHhPc.jpg?1   SB5Mnxs.jpg?2




    Note:  Overall the brows seem to ride even lower (especially the center) than the those seen on the  ANH Hero bucket.


        k4BxzfY.jpg?2  uX02ne6.jpg?2 ufJZVKi.jpg?2

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                                                                              EAR PLACEMENT


The "ideal" ear placement is as seen below (first photo below).  Because some armorers design their helmets differently or send them pre-assembled this is not always possible to achieve, but it is suggested that you try to get as close as you can.



1.  Top of the ear (round part) should be closely centered directly below the rear trap line and cover the cap/faceplate seam completely.

2.  Bottoms should be angled back, with the bottom screw following that angle.  In a perfect scenario the top 2 screws should line up as well.

3.  In the case of ROTJ ears, there are no screws present but note that the angles are the same as seen in ANH and ESB.

4.  Don't worry if the ears don't fit tight (flush) all the way around.  There were gaps in the originals, so some is expected.

5.  For Level 3, all ear screws must be the countersunk (V-shaped) flat head slotted type as seen below.

6.  For Level 3, bottoms must be angled back, cap/faceplate seam covered and top closely centered below rear trap line




                                                                     ANH Stunt (3 screws)                                                                 ANH Hero (2 screws)

   aqL1Zj9.jpg?2  oYDEzWK.jpg?1  uD2z8pJ.jpg?1        ayfj1Tt.jpg?1 


                                                   ESB (3 screws)                                                                                  ROTJ  (NO screws)

       lDbz7zN.jpg?2   asrfRfa.jpg?1          zaxtnQx.jpg?1  hnspg7l.jpg?1

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                                                                                 EAR SCREWS


                                                                                                  ANH Stunt, Hero and ESB


                                               For Level 3, all ear screws must be "..slotted, flat-topped, countersunk and painted white".  


                                             Although not listed in the CRL specifically, for Level 3 the head must be a V-shape as seen below.




Note:   The recommended screw head size is #6/32 (7mm), with a length between 3/4" to 1" (17 to 25mm).


                             fgrKPT4.jpg?1   ayl1VHO.jpg?1   VtBLiIO.jpg?2


                                                                                                               ANH Hero


                          For Level 2 and above, Ears shall be attached with 2 screws, one above the ear bump and one at the base of the helmet. 


                                                                    2rsGIFA.jpg?1   mg2hsRy.jpg?1   




                                                                            For Level 2 and above, the ears have no visible screws


                                         cJYzn7Z.jpg?1   0NNB4a0.jpg?1   Ob2S8sX.jpg?2   uuWm5JR.jpg?1  

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                                                                           EAR BARS


                                                                     ANH Stunt / ESB / ROTJ


For Level 2 and above, ear bars must have 4 bumps.  Ideally the outline is fairly thin as seen in the reference photos below.  The black "rank stripe" is optional at Basic and Level 2, but is required at Level 3 and may only have one***  


***ROTJ and ESB  may have 2-3 bumps painted black


                                 ZxLFLba.jpg?1   qF0VEpz.jpg?1   goYxik5.jpg?1


                                                                               ANH Hero


                                   For Level 2 and above ear bar must have 3 bumps, not 4, and have no more than one painted black.


                                                      7T1e1J0.jpg?1   aX7FDJu.jpg?1

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                                                                                                       ANH Stunt/Hero


                         For Level 3 Tears/traps (trapezoids) shall be hand painted or use decals that emulate hand painted (with correct ANH details).


Note Lines inside tears as well as borders should ideally be on the thin side as seen below.




                                edT1WjB.jpg?1  pHM1ejB.jpg?1  2kEtqPS.jpg?2 


                                                                                                          Side Traps 


              cdQh0Oa.jpg?2  qsArnTf.jpg?1  z2qWgDL.jpg?1


          2hTGbQy.jpg?1  eHvOe3J.jpg?1  

                                                                                                       Rear traps


                      cfkUW9S.jpg?3    JqauRv1.jpg?3   0SQyzcY.jpg?1




                                                                                                  ESB / ROTJ


                       For Level 2 and above, tears and traps must be "...decals, not hand painted or decals that replicate hand painted".


                                                                  ----      Images below enlarged to show texture  ----



                      XuOCdl4.jpg?1   I02dG7E.jpg?1   Glt0PCN.jpg?1  


                                                                                                     Side traps

                                 o4lkgLy.jpg?1   yJdaXiS.jpg?1



                              K1BuLvq.jpg?1   gFVFFUT.jpg?1

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                                                                                                          ANH Stunt


                 For Basic approval and above, Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area.  Eight total teeth on the frown are cut out.

                                                                                 Please also note the extended taper on the ends of the frown.



                                                                                                   Image by Rogue Trooper


                                                                                                                  ANH Hero


For Basic approval and above, Frown is painted gray and does not leave the teeth area.  Six total teeth are cut out and frown is tapered at both ends.

NoteTaper at ends is shorter as compared to ANH Stunt.


                        I6eK3rJ.jpg?1    vzn4Vb2.jpg?2




                                                                                                      Image by Rogue Trooper   





                          For Basic approval and above, Frown shall be painted black and does not leave the teeth area.  6 or 8 total teeth are cut out.  


                         wpb4ZJb.jpg?1  KjXBXL3.jpg?1  


                     tdxDMqL.jpg?1   jPXq2AS.jpg?1




For Basic approval and above Frown shall be painted black, overlap the teeth area with 8 teeth cut out. For Level 2 , they are rounded and not tapered to points or squared.

NOTE:  Unlike ANH/ESB, the paint on the ROTJ frown had more of a matte/flat finish.


           nhS2d1t.jpg?2   zFIllVr.jpg?1  brwxZYN.jpg?1

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                                                                                                      TUBE STRIPES


                                                                                                     ANH Stunt/Hero


Ideally at Level 2 tube stripes are approximately 1 cm (5/16ths) away from the cheek, and should lean toward the front.  The thickness may vary, but the number of stripes must be between 9 and 16.  These may be hand painted or decals for all levels, but should not extend under the ear.


               4Abat2D.jpg?1   9yhWt9s.jpg?1   2OMODpz.jpg?1  

  qiOHq7R.jpg?1  eDuN7Cj.jpg?1  R1HlWlC.jpg?1





                                                                                                        ROTJ / ESB


For Level 2 and above tube stripes must be "...decals, not hand painted or decals that represent hand painted" Ideally there should be 13 stripes, but any number between 9 and 16 are acceptable.  Tube stripes should not extend under the ear.


                           gG4Kzyf.jpg?2    qJNXmjV.jpg?1     



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                                                                                  HOVI MIX TIPS


                                                                                                           ANH Stunt, ESB 


                                                                      For Level 2 and above correct Hovi Mix tips are required.

                "Correct" is defined as:

1. Hovi tip rims and insides must be white or painted white on the insides.

2.  Screen must be a wide mesh.

3.  Screen should be attached toward the tip and not recessed.


Note:  These are also known as Hovi-mic tips.  That name derives from the originals, which had HOVI MIX PA2 embossed on them.  The interior also contained a plastic "nipple" on the bottom of the inside.




       biQW7GE.jpg?2   yjHcKIA.jpg?1  


           rmMCj1s.jpg?1   WYFQFmd.jpg?2


                                                                                                         ANH Hero


Although the same type of tips were used on the Hero helmets, the sides of the interiors were black, not white as seen on the Stunt version.  The "nipple" in the rear was white, though, and in most cases the screen was painted black.  Having the interior sides painted black is optional for Basic and Level 2, for Level 3 this is a requirement.


              FicULTz.jpg?1  m19Hiby.jpg?1    1uy48Hm.jpg?1




Although very similar to the ANH/ESB type, the tips for ROTJ were not the HOVI MIX type and not made of plastic.  They were made of aluminum with no embossing of any sort.  Also note the lack of ridges on the side, the more tapered front and no holes in the recessed part.  Unlike ANH/ESB, they were attached to the helmet using wooden plugs that were painted white, with the interior sides being black.


NOTE:  Screens may be painted black, and due to limited suppliers of the correct type ones made from resin/plastic are 100% acceptable at all levels and do NOT require the wooden plug.

                                                                                                  Screen-used tip images

                                              32NmXeC.jpg  IIvCXwx.jpg  P5UT5nx.jpg




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                                                                                                ANH STUNT, HERO, ESB


Vocoder should ideally be painted black using a gloss or satin finish.  Lines should be crisp, clean, not extend beyond the ridges and be symmetrical on both sides.


For Level 3, lines MUST be clean, crisp and symmetrical.


                        KKZqeB8.jpg?2   9ZBQOLM.jpg?3  mdbUcOv.jpg?1




                                     Unlike ANH Stunt, Hero and ESB, the paint on the vocoders (and frowns) had more of a matte/flat finish.


                                                        xgSQ2RO.jpg?1    6qGMTNL.jpg?1   vBAybmz.jpg?1


For Level 3, the vocoder must be integrated (molded) into the helmet.  Some helmets such as SDS Battle Spec MK3 come with a separate vocoder (shown below), which is not acceptable for Centurion level approval.


                                                                               0aJL8Ua.jpg?1    ahGPOlU.jpg?1

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                                                                                                      CHEST/BACK PLATE

                                                                   (Including shoulder connections)


                                                                                                       ANH Stunt/Hero   ESB


Note:  While some troopers like to keep a significant amount of the return edges on the arm opening areas of the back and chest plates, as seen in the reference images below they were actually minimal for the most part, but leaving them on will not affect approval at levels 2 or 3.


             Sq6eUcM.jpg?1  JhOqd1R.jpg?1  UrnD3dz.jpg?2


Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders.  As seen in the images from screen used armor below, this ideally must be approximately 2 inches (48 mm) wide.


                                         e7nuWKG.jpg?1  83VZq1e.jpg?1


                                                                                                    Shoulder bridges 


For Level 2, no visible rivets are present.  For Level 3, they shall free float in the back, be glued in the front and need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric/elastic chest/back connection.  Ideally this strap should be 1/4 inch (5 mm) wide, and connect over the tab at the top of the back armor.  The bridge should also lay flush against the back.


AK9w0mr.jpg?1     lbfFArU.jpg?1     FAKhPZ2.jpg?1




NOTE As seen in the photos below, there are no large tabs on the rear of the shoulder bridges.  This is not specifically mentioned in the CRL, but removing them is highly recommended if possible.


                            qb4YVKO.jpg?1   B3vL4VO.jpg?1




         CRLs will be changing soon, but for the time being we will using screen captures/screen used armor as references for submissions for Level 3.  Please be aware of the following:

1.  Shoulder bridges have no flat tabs on the front or rear.  Ridges extend from back to front.


2.  Shoulder bridges are affixed to the chest tabs using one single "pop" style rivet on each side, painted white and set back approximately 3-4 ridges from the front. 


3.  Rear of bridge is held down with Velcro mounted to the rear tabs, and not by elastic as seen in ANH/ESB.


                                                                    ekPGHLX.jpg?1  uzkYcKr.jpg?1



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                                                                                      AB/KIDNEY/POSTERIOR PLATES


                                                                                                     ANH Stunt/Hero  ESB


                                                                                                          Ab buttons/plates:


Although not specifically listed in the CRL, the following item (underlined below) is often overlooked by during the build/painting process, and while not required at any level it is highly recommended to improve the overall look of the armor. 

AB button plates should ideally be squared (not rounded) at the corners and be trimmed to where the actual plate is inside the ridge area it is mounted to as seen below. 


                                                                                                            Reference images

                               LSuei4K.jpg?1   JViLwBX.jpg?1


Level 3 Requirements:

The paint does not extend to the bottom of the actual raised button.




The large ab plate is a separate piece that is attached to the raised area below it.

Plate does not overlap the edges of this area and shows a straight cut line on all sides.


                                       Incorrect                          Correct

                            EDMcPL4.jpg    x5BYKZy.jpg?1


Level 3 ab buttons are integrated and painted directly on the armor.  No separate buttons are allowed.


Note: As seen in the photos below, the ab plate buttons on SDS armor do not meet this requirement as sent from the mfr. and the plates must be replaced for L3 approval. 


               nXajqrv.jpg?1   PTw6yZN.jpg?1




For Level 3, ideally there is no gap between the abdomen and kidney armor Be aware that although not specifically listed in the CRL, this is a requirement for Centurion and may require shimming.  Please also note how the tops of the ab/kidney connection are level.  


    6m3BAqh.jpg?1  lA0qpzp.jpg?1  K0dBed7.jpg?1  0y5NexF.jpg?1


For Level 3, three domed head bifurcated (split) rivets approximately 5/16" (8mm) in diameter are present on the left side of the abdomen and kidney and are equally spaced along the depth of the armor and are painted white.  Note that the measurements are from the center of the rivet.  Rivets on both kidney and ab should line up horizontally.


                                                   ILNmZFM.jpg?1                 lmE2x8G.jpg?2

                                                                                Diagram by Billhag


                                                Split (bifurcated) rivet                                  Interior pic showing the rear side of the split (bifurcated) rivets

                                                Slrsvxi.jpg?1              OmSxpKQ.jpg?1


Sometimes referred to as the "Han" snap, for Level 3 a single male snap on the top right corner of the ab plate is present Note in the photos that it is the bottom of the snap that faces outward and is not painted.  


     K473Osx.jpg?1  aSMKgHu.jpg?1  ZInYdvj.jpg?1  v1NV32n.jpg?1


For Level 3, a single split rivet is present on the lower tab of the abdomen armor (cod)  This can have a brass or chrome finish, but cannot be painted.




                                                                                                  Posterior (butt) armor


For Level 3, two male snaps are present on the lower center tab of the posterior armorNote in the photos that snaps are not painted. Paint is accepted for Basic approval, but can not be present for Level 2 and above and the finish must be chrome or nickel in color.  The back (rear/flat) part of the snap must face outward.


                                                                     5QkSTLJ.jpg?1   VJmcz5z.jpg?1


Ideally, the posterior and kidney plates should be flush at the connection, but in many cases there is a misalignment where the posterior plate sticks out (often referred to as"trooper butt").  Most of the time this is a strapping issue, and depending on the severity you may be asked to minimize it at Level 3.


zEWQjCO.jpg?1    ojrInVg.jpg?2    NBX8NuU.jpg?1    tH6Jz08.jpg?1




                                                                                                      Ab button plates


Note how large plate is inverted as compared to ANH/ESB.                      For the purposes of this post I have taken the liberty of adding the colors in on this                                                                                                                                          screen used set to clarify the CRL.  Black may be substituted for Charcoal gray.


    T2O3Rzo.jpg?1                                              s72KnY7.jpg


Note:  There are no split rivets on the ab/kidney connection and no rivet on the cod as seen in ANH/ESB.

                                  However, for Level 3 "there shall be one visible snap on the crotch tab of the posterior plate, painted white".





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                                                      BELT (Canvas - ABS) and DROP BOXES


                                                                                         ANH STUNT, Hero,  ESB


                                                                                                       Canvas belt

For Basic approval- Belt must be made of canvas or material with a canvas covering.  Must be 2.75" (70mm) to 3.25" (83mm) wide, and not wider than the plastic portion of the belt.  Must be white/off white, (not beige).




For level 3 approval:


                   1.   In order to fully support the holster/E-11 the canvas belt must be firm/sturdy in appearance (no wrinkling or sagging).


                   2.  Canvas belts can not contain patches of any sort.


                      SKYsomw.png?1   8Iasmg3.jpg?1   4eW2R4K.jpg?1


  Notes:  The bottom of the canvas belt should ideally sit above the bottom of the kidney plate and not overlap the kidney/posterior plate connection.


     lcfQkaA.jpg?1   m3Wtd5G.jpg?1    HzlkkCC.jpg?1   sREHj84.jpg?1                                                                                 

                                 A little fraying is to be expected, but excessive fraying is not (as seen below) and needs to be trimmed. 

NOTE:  This is not a screen used belt. 






Soft belt is not made of canvas like ANH/ESB, but is instead tightly woven cordura like/style or a material with a tightly woven nylon/cordure style covering and is 2.25" (57mm) to 2.5" (64mm) wideNarrower than ANH/ESB.




                                                                                                         ABS Belt 


                                                                                             ANH Stunt, Hero,  ESB


For Level 3, the corners of the plastic ammo belt shall be trimmed at a 45 degree angle that meets the outer edge of the cloth belt.



                                 yp9XgX5.jpg?1  GjSdCiW.jpg?1       KhSaDw2.png


  For Level 3, the top of the ABS belt shall sit at or just above the bottom of the central and vertical ab button panels.  A slight overlap is suggested, but not required


8XAwYOf.jpg?1  Nvimd6R.jpg?1  N8trEfM.jpg?1


Note Comlinks are worn only with Hero armor.  Although not a requirement at any level, if worn they should ideally be placed behind the rear ammo box on the wearer's left.


                                                      zGaKXpP.jpg?3    gBHl7YZ.jpg?2




For Level 2:


1.  There are 2 rivets, one on each side of the ammo belt, connecting it to the soft belt underneath.

2.  There are no square buttons covering the belt rivets.

3.  Corners of ABS ammo belt are cut at right angles (Not 45 degrees as in ANH/ESB)



                                                       MvlDfpW.jpg?1   4lDUviW.jpg?2


                                                                                                    DROP BOXES


                                                                                       ANH Stunt/Hero, ESB, ROTJ


                                                 For Level 3**, Drop boxes must have full inner drop boxes to close the back.


                                                                      ** For ROTJ this is a requirement at Level 2


                                              oDtxiNm.jpg?2            s1YTaG4.jpg?1


                      For Level 3, Drop boxes are vertically aligned with the end of the ammo belt with minimal gap between belt and box.


      JuwSduC.jpg?1  vo0s2dK.png?1  qwMnIyo.jpg?1  cYrWLyH.jpg?1

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                                                                                                      SHOULDER BELLS


                                                                                                            ANH Stunt/Hero 


NOTE:  Although not specifically listed in the CRL, in order to remain true to the "spirit" of screen accuracy and a better overall look we have historically insisted that the following issue be required for Level 3 approval:

The top of the shoulder bell should touch (or be very close to) the edge of the shoulder bridge



For Level 3, there should be a minimal gap between the shoulder armor and the chest/back plates.


k85ELoM.jpg?1  5GKZpcy.jpg?1


                                               JFwe2HM.jpg?2  xliWw92.jpg?2 




                                                                                  For Level 3, no bicep hooks are permitted.


             5tbZCZ0.jpg?1   WF3h8cz.jpg?1   YLHa1Pn.jpg?1



Shoulder bells are interchangeable.  However, note that many (but not all of) the originals contained a "swoop" (slight curvature on one side) at the bottoms, which should ideally face the front.  Some armor makers have incorporated this detail into their molds, but some have not and many times troopers get them backward.  This is not a requirement at any level.


                                                                                  <--- Front

                                                                  jfsrcMw.jpg?1   k9NHiix.jpg?1  





                                           For Level 2 and above, shoulder bells are rounded at (lower) corners and are interchangeable.


                 1IUB9IX.jpg?4   HfVxXtW.jpg?2   H9eP7Az.jpg?2   JRjEWvA.jpg?2


                                   For Level 3, bells have foam inside, are slightly pinched and worn slightly higher**, compared to ANH/ESB

                                                                                   ** Not as flush against the biceps.


                                      swuPlz1.jpg?2   YJCedo4.jpg?1


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                                                                                                 ANH Stunt/Hero  ESB  ROTJ



In the original films, many of the biceps had an indentation, or "thumbprint" (normally worn only on the left) on the inside.  As the biceps are interchangeable, this is not a requirement for any level.




Biceps should be strapped/worn in a way that does not allow them to ride too low or high.  Due to variations in trooper height, they can be adjusted up or down as needed for a better appearance as long as the gaps between the bicep and forearm/forearm and hand guards are even and symmetrical.


                    2vzDzKl.jpg?2   Adx81Xc.jpg?2




For Level 3, no return edge on the inside of the front of the forearm is allowed.   Return edge must be completely removed, especially in the "hump" area as seen in the reference images below.


46QS6rq.jpg?1  qLdE09B.jpg?1  qLQeJku.jpg?1  fhmsrv4.jpg?1


NOTE:  For an "ideal look" the forearm and bicep cover strips should line up, especially when standing still (arms at side).  This is suggested, but not required.



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                                                                                                 GLOVES-HAND GUARDS


                                                                                                            ANH Stunt/Hero





                                                       For Level 2, gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves and be black.

                                                                                      Fingers may be textured or non textured.

                                                           xIF87bF.jpg?1    cGt94Ya.jpg?1


                                                                                                        HAND GUARDS


For Level 3, hand guards shall be latex or latex-like (flexible), solid white or painted white, and affixed to gloves with no visible strapping or stitching.


                             zj1U6T0.jpg?1   18uluFD.jpg?1   S1s5oSP.jpg?1


NOTE:  For Hero costumes, a different shape of hand guards is acceptable.  Often called "alternative" or "Hero" style, (the bottom ridge is straight instead of curved and the overall shape/design on top is slightly different), these were worn by Han Solo in several scenes, although in some scenes he is wearing one of each style.

There are several Stunt TKs seen wearing these as well, but these are only acceptable for Hero costumes.








For Level 2, gloves shall be rubber or rubber-like chemical gloves in black, but may also be be black silk, satin or silk-like material All Are acceptable.


                                                                                                        HAND GUARDS:


For Level 2,  these shall be clam shell (snowtrooper) style, and not the trapezoidal design (ANH) . 


                                                 A:  If rubber gloves are used, the hand guards are affixed via an elastic strap over the palm.


                                               k0eyr1d.jpg?1    aEYd0bO.jpg?1   4zw52jP.jpg?2


B:  If silk or satin gloves are used, the hand guards shall have the correct visible stitching pattern using black thread, with a 5 point/star pattern equally spread out with 2 on each side and 1 in the middle front, double stitched at each point.


                                                      EAhiROm.jpg?1   1tVcp3M.jpg?2

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                                                                                  THIGHS/LOWER LEG ARMOR


                                                                                               ANH Stunt/Hero ESB




For Basic approval, cover strip must end at the top of the lower ridge in front and back.

For Level 2  it is suggested that any gaps between the lower ridges be filled or white ABS placed behind them.

For Level 3 any gaps must be filled or white ABS strips placed behind them.

                                                                                                        Front views

                                  mG49Nzc.jpg?1  E5L7eXO.jpg?1


                                                                                                         Back views

                      BEY3WIy.jpg?1  RlW6Q3x.jpg?1


For Level 2 The thigh ammo belt is attached with one solid head rivet on each side, painted white, and located in the upper corner fastened to the lower thigh ridge.  Rivets shall be cap or split style rivets.  No pop rivets are allowed. 


                                            2pvrAr5.jpg?1   DWl9VRD.jpg?2


                                                          Rivets should be approximately 5/16ths (8mm) in diameter (exterior).





Although not specifically listed in the CRL, in order to remain true to the "spirit" of screen accuracy and a better overall look we have historically insisted that the following issue be required for Level 3 approval:


                                        Back edges of ammo pack need to be an equal distance from the "corners" of the ridge at the rear. 


                nlwDx7l.jpg?1      SyTzqxd.jpg?1   J7iZwBU.jpg?1   



Other Notes

1.  Please note that while the ammo packs of most most TKs were raised in the front and covered the front ridge, this is not a requirement for any level but 

     is suggested.


                      EMkXKnB.jpg?1   swZy2dt.jpg?1   wcVMgtt.jpg?1


                                                                                                 LOWER LEG ARMOR 


For Level 2, the outside cover strip edge shall be facing the inside of the leg.  Note cover strip placement in photos 3-4


                                                                                                                                  Left                                        Right

 Nv8rNpu.jpg?2   moGPDd3.jpg?1     JcZR9SB.jpg?1  A6gr4vO.jpg?1  cfd32dS.jpg?2



                   For Level 2 the sniper knee plate must not have visible rivets or fasteners, and must be aligned with the ridges of the shin.


                                 yyGw3AZ.jpg?1  8uobqA6.jpg?1  ZduitQ1.jpg?1


NOTE:  For a more screen accurate look, it is suggested that the top of the rear ridge of the sniper plate be aligned with the top ridge of the calf. Also note that 

            the sides of the top of the plate are angled rather than curved.


                                 Q5LXorf.png?1   SPKijxH.png?2   TQSUjK8.jpg?1  YSGgsvY.png?1


                                                                                                       MOBILITY CUTS


Although the vast majority of Troopers did not have them, a few had "Mobility" cuts in the bottom the rear thigh ridge and top of the rear calves to allow for better movement.  If present, for Level 3 these must not extend beyond the raised edge of the rear thigh ridge or the bottom of the rear calf ridge.


                             ypz2U25.jpg?1    8d5xESW.jpg?1   M8hwhLW.jpg?1




IMPORTANT:  As per the the CRL for this costume, for Level 3 cover strips are not permitted.  Bicep, forearm, thigh and calf connections must use the overlap construction method.


                                                                                                   Sniper knee plate


                                           For Level 2, knee plate shall have one rivet on both sides, painted white and located below the ridge.


           CJVOIbp.jpg?1  48kvJYc.jpg?2   dDj3tlZ.jpg?1


                     Note: that while the above examples show the placement of the rivet, for Level 2 approval they must be painted white.


                                                                                               Thigh ammo pack


For Level 2, the thigh ammo pack is attached with pop rivets, (not split or cap rivets) painted white, in the upper corner and fastened to the lower thigh ridge.


It may have an extra rivet in the front, located at the top between the second and third boxes on the wearer's right.


                                                          CB0gYha.jpg?4    dSqahlR.png?2

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                                                                                            THERMAL DETONATOR 


                                                                                                ANH Stunt/Hero ESB


For Basic level:

1.   Total length is approximately 7.5 inches (190 mm).


2.  The raised ribbed section faces the rear, with the round washer detail closest to the right end cap.    3STtHa4.jpg?1


3.  Vertical (straight) sections of the clips do not extend below the bottom of the canvas belt.   ZpZEOPt.jpg?2


4.  End caps shall be approximately 20 mm in width.     7QbDnOq.jpg?1


For Level 2:

1.  Clips shall be attached with slotted type flat or dome-head screws, and be black (two per clip).   V-head or Philips screws are not permitted.

2.  Clips are positioned with little or no gap between the clips and end caps.


IMPORTANT:  Please observe that the screws closest to the face plate are positioned toward the top of the clip, and that the ends are square and not rounded.


                      QKiTB7a.jpg?2    Dm9h0p5.jpg?2    4VGe0vG.jpg?1



Notes:  The top of the TD should should sit level (or slightly) higher than the top of the canvas belt. 


                                            66W22Oe.jpg?1   ENBGgGW.jpg?1  eXtIssr.jpg?2   


                        If worn in lieu of the TD (Hero only) the grappling hook box is located at the rear and positioned on the wearer's right.







              For Basic and Level 2 approval, the TD can have ANH details on the face plate, but for Level 3 the TD must have the correct ROTJ details.  Although not a requirement, for those aiming for screen accuracy please note that the TD clips are more narrow than those seen in ANH/ESB, being closer to 5/8" (15 mm) wide rather than 1 inch (25 mm).


                                     QG2eQlb.jpg?1   M60vth9.jpg?1

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                                                                                                               ANH Stunt/Hero   ESB


              For Level 2, there is no seam present on the front of the boots and they have black soles.  Please see CRL for more info on Basic approval.


                         S6KyY69.jpg?1  4BiHzlt.jpg?1


                                               5ypXVtY.jpg?1  uxUZLoL.jpg?1




For Level 2, there is no seam present on the front of the boots.

For Level 3, boot soles shall be white, off white or have the sides painted** white.


**not the bottoms of course, just the sides.  ;)


      seNN2bC.jpg?1      IqrhxLF.jpg?2      gv1gWPL.jpg?2                                  

                                                           Special shout-out to Glen (gmrhodes13) for the above ROTJ images!


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                                                                                                                 ANH Stunt, Hero


For Basic approval and above, straps are affixed to the rear of the canvas belt using two fasteners, (rivets, snaps or Chicago screws).  One on each side located toward the bottomHolster is worn on the left side.


Note:   Although not specifically mentioned in the CRL, for Level 3 the straps must be natural leather (tan) in color


                                                                         7O5RFxM.jpg?2    pHCGUGs.jpg?2



For Basic approval and above, straps are affixed to the rear of the canvas belt using four fasteners, (rivets, snaps or Chicago screws) .  Two on each side spaced equally apart.  Holster is worn on the left side.

                                   5PargXK.jpg?2   tFLp5jl.jpg?1 



Note:   Although not specifically mentioned in the CRL, for Level 3 the straps must be natural leather (tan) in color.    


                                                      Han                                                                       Luke

                               z5FqHQZ.jpg     Xawd84i.jpg  slwyrVq.jpg




For Basic approval, Holster is affixed via two black loops over the belt (no fasteners) and is worn on the right side.


 Note:   Although not specifically mentioned in the CRL, for Level 3 the straps must be black in color.


                                                                       GxPObnG.jpg?1      RzOYwA9.jpg?1    




For Basic approval, holster is attached via straps behind the belt using rivets, snaps or Chicago screws, one on each strap located in the center.

Note:  Although not specifically mentioned in the CRL, for Level 3 the straps must be black in color.


                                                   qovEg5n.jpg?2      OobFjBS.jpg?2  gKPGAhg.jpg?1


Note:  It will not affect approval at any level, but be aware that the straps for the ROTJ holster are a little longer that those seen in ANH and ESB.


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  • justjoseph63 changed the title to QUICK CRL Reference Guide for your OT build. Pics, Notes & Tips.
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UPDATE:  Thanks to Caleb (MaskedVengeance) I now have the quick links to individual posts working in the main thread.  No more having to scroll down to find a particular item!

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