MaskedVengeance

It’s called refueling for the next round. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Congratulations, Kevin! Excellent work!

Sorta. The fuzzy Velcro on the outside of the clips is to protect your kidney armor plate, since it will be in direct contact. However, if you look closely you’ll notice I also put some scratchy/hook Velcro on the INSIDE of the clips, which is to add friction to the canvas belt when installed, which is a retention measure. You should definitely do the fuzz Velcro to protect your armor, but test out the tightness of your fitment on the belt before doing the inner hook velcro. You may not need it, and your clip opening may be too tight to fit it anyway. Keep in mind that your canvas belt will be doubled over where your detonator is installed. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As you can see, Rob, we have a great many troopers at the ready waiting to help you on your quest to become a STORMTROOPER! Don't ever feel afraid to ask questions; there are never too many, and the only dumb ones are those unspoken.

Congrats on receiving your armor! You're about to embark on the journey of your life, and we will be here to support you along the way! Ask many questions and post photos on your own build thread once you're ready!

So if you're shaping your own TD clips then you don't need to worry about the dilemma I had about the raised or lowered option because you can size/trim the clips to your needs. "Raised" vs "lowered" was relevant to me at the time because I had prefabricated clips that were designed for the larger diameter tubes. Basically you should aim for what is technically the "lower" posture of the tube as it related to how the panel is pointing back (you don't want to knob aimed too high), but the "raised" placement of the tube relative to your canvas belt. For those of you reading, here is the image for context: And by the way, my final thermal detonator is a larger 68mm diameter one from AM, versus the smaller 2" diameter ATA one from my build thread.

I’m so glad you hadn’t drilled those holes on the left thigh! Phew! For higher levels of approval, be sure the ends of the thigh ammo pack are equidistant from the rear ridge of the thigh. You might also consider asking your GML if they differentiate between the ammo pack being placed lower (like the photos Glen posted) or raised like many of us do (because it’s also screen accurate). Ask me how I know. [emoji23] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Trim away at the tops, James! Many do that simply for comfort, especially on the inner halves of the thighs. I've kinda kept a hybrid where the returns are gone on the inner thigh area, and then tapered them out to thin return edges on the outer thighs. That being said, before too long I may take the returns completely off. I'll let the DOs give the final word though. Also here are two of my fav return edge and reference threads by our new DL! https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48166-return-edges-101-ottk/ https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48335-quick-crl-reference-guide-for-your-ot-build-pics-notes-tips/#comment-673658

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Yeah the base of the image is Anovos' armor diagram, and then Tony (ukswrath) added in the measurements for this AWESOME thread HERE. I also slightly modified them to remove the round numbers to make the images less busy when I used them on my thread.

Yup yup yup. As Joseph said. 15mm arms (front, and back if possible). 20mm thighs (front, and back if possible) 20mm shins (front) 25mm thighs (back, if possible) Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I can attest to my gmail account only receiving some nomination notifications, while others were not delivered. I also know of at least one other trooper using gmail who has experienced the same. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

The arc length of the control panel isn't as important or visible as other dimensions of the TD. In my experience, I've almost always trimmed the control panels to tax size in respect to the measurement shown as 95mm in the photo that Mario posted. Different makers have slight variances in the designs of the molds. WTF is one of the "brands" of TDs that I haven't yet acquired, so I don't know what the raw measurement would be. One thing to note about the width of the control panel is that I trim mine to ensure that the two black clip screws are perfectly in alignment with the edges of the control panel. So here's my order of operations: Trim end caps to 20mm wide Fit end caps onto the tube then trim tube so the total width is 7.25-7.5" wide Place metal clips against end caps then measure distance between the screws to determine panel width. By the way, all these TD details are because I'm OBSESSED with TDs. The average trooper won't spend the time it takes to read all these responses on their TD. So don't worry about spending too much time on the tiny details. I'm the outlier with my technique.

We need to try again with a general open or staff audio chat! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

E-6000 all the way for as much of your armor build as you can! It's slow setup time allows you to make fine adjustments, and it can also be removed after-the-fact for corrections. So yes, I used E-6000 under the control panels, and as you can see, sanded the tubes to maximize adhesion. When you tape off the area though, just be sure the footprint is smaller than the actual panel so you don't accidentally leave and unpainted tube exposed. As for clear coat, I don't with the enamel spray, but you could do it with primer if you want. Just be sure to get a non-glossy clear.

Jeff @StrmTRPR85 - Can you confirm your transfer to Starkiller Garrison for me so I can update the Attaché list? We've actually been in need to an Attache in that unit, so it will be perfect! You may also want to change your unit here on the FISD profile as you still have Ohio listed. Josh - Now that it's February you're going to attend that armor party this month, right?! Exciting times! And we're all Star Wars-aholics, aren't we?

Awesome! You'll have to start a troop log so we can see any photos you capture of the milestone!

The primers that Joseph and Andrew mention will be perfect, but I've also had great results with the Testors 1238 spray, linked below at Hobby Lobby. Notice the adjacent number patterns as they are all related (1138 regular paint, 1237 spray primer, 1238 spray paint). https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Paint-Brushes/Gray-Testors-Spray-Enamel/p/1043 I'm not gonna share here how many cans of 1238 I've purchased, but I will just drop these: @revlimiter is now in possession of one of these.

As Glen mentioned, the tube MUST be grey, but you may or may not have to paint it depending on the color of the raw tube. Some plumbing tube is produced grey, though you may need to sand off some black lettering. As for the specific shade of grey, the general goal is to match the grey paint color used on your helmet. This means using something close to, or exactly the following: Humbrol 5 enamel Testors 1138 enamel Testors 1238 spray enamel (matches the brush-painted 1138 listed above) Notice that I've recommended all enamel paints since once they are cured they are quite durable. If you're looking at my own build thread, the first grey (gunmetal I think) that I used was too dark. Man, I really need to finish my build thread!!

Umm yeah, that's an excellent profile name! You just need to find a counterpart who can take up the OpenTheBlastDoor name! So welcome to FISD! You're certainly in the right place for assistance in building your WTF armor! As a thermal detonator enthusiast, I love that you're tackling that part first. In fact, I have two posts on my build thread dedicated to thermal dets (a third and likely fourth post will come in the future since my thread is still incomplete). https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/48337-mvs-anh-tk-stunt-ata-1st-build-thread-for-centurion/page/4/#comment-700649 You're already on the right track by starting a build thread on here, and I'm sure many other troopers will be around to provide you with guidance on your journey. If I may, you might consider this order of assembly after your thermal det. Biceps (they're largely hidden by shoulder bells) Shoulder bells (simple, with no assembly) Forearms (next smallest pieces) Left shin (with sniper knee to help hide misalignment) Right shin Right thigh (with ammo pack to help hide misalignment) Left thigh Torso parts Helmet (generally considered the most difficult) I look forward to following along on your build!

Greetings fellow members, It is my pleasure to announce the two newest recipients of our Imperial Attaché Outstanding Achievement Award. This honor is bestowed on Attachés who go above and beyond the call of duty in their role as an Imperial Attaché, and both of these troopers have consistently exemplified the qualities warranting recognition. Arthur @giskard8 - TK39093, Hong Kong Garrison A seasoned veteran of the Detachment, when Arthur is not trooping he can be found welcoming new members to the forum and congratulating our new and higher level approvals. His actions contribute to the long tradition of FISD being the friendliest forum in the Legion, and no doubt Arthur will continue to consistently be at his Attaché post! Today we salute your unquestioned loyalty, Arthur! Gerald @Doggydoc - TK96004, Canadian Garrison It's nearly impossible to sneak in a new member introduction or special approval post without Gerald jumping in and welcoming the aspiring builder or joining the celebration of the new approval. He is also known to provide valuable input and helpful feedback throughout the forum. Today we salute your unquestioned loyalty, Gerald! Please join me in congratulating these two troopers!

Welcome, Mandy! You're in the right place for all things Stormtrooper related! What version are you hoping to build! You'll find a great many of troopers here on the forum ready to assist you on your build journey!