Helotech

Ah... my go to trusted Joseph helping again I totally agree about the Hero. LOL I only managed a cursory look at the parts last night. I will be laying it all out tonight and taking detailed photos and doing the post. This is my first time working with anything 3D printed, so it will be a learning curve. I actually thought the ridges would be worse, but they look very manageable. Eelco definitely does good work. To top it all off I ordered Blast FX systems separately for the DLT and my E-11. I could have had Eelco install them when I ordered the DLT, but it was pricey enough as is. So I will have to contend with all that as well. I've mentioned before that I build models for a hobby and am used to parts clean up before assembly. I always have to take my time doing it, so this won't be any different, just on a Much larger scale. Leaving work now!

Jake I just received my 3d0Prop DLT yesterday and will be starting a thread soon. Did you receive any sort of instructions on how to put the sucker together? I have a ziplock baggie filed with what seems like 30 or 40 small parts, and I have no clue on where they go. Thanks,

Thanks. I'm actually updating the helmet interior as well. Standby for TK Helmet Mk II AHHHHH so many projects!!!!

Thanks for the good words Andrew. Appreciate it. I guess it's my RCAF SAR Flight Engineer training. Problem solve and don't give up. Keep the chopper flying and complete the rescue Once I start my DLT thread in the weapon forums I'll post a link here. Cheers!

Ya. The DLT will be allot of work, but worth it. I'm going for the Han on the Death Star escorting Chewie to the detention block build. I have a couple "issues" I will talk about concerning the ordering of the gun, but I'll save that for my post.

Winner winner, roasted Kowakian monkey dinner!!!!! WIll post pics soon. May bump any further info to the weapons / DLT-19 build pages. I will have a TON of questions there, because I also have the Blast-FX sound / lighting packages to install in the DLT and my E-11. Ohhh, boy. Another project!

Well, a long time since I posted here. I haven't made any changes to the armour, but a MBB (Medium brown box) arrived today. It's been something I've been waiting on for about 7 months. Hazard any guesses?

Hey Jonas. Phew!!! Glad the package arrived safe and sound. Hope the stuff I sent is good enough to update the holster and the TD. Both are fairly easy to do, but if you need help don't hesitate to ask. Awesome build progression! You are doing a fantastic job. There is no harm in pausing on the build now and then to relax and refocus. You've inspired me to get back into my armour mods. I have been holding off fixing my bells so that I can get approved for Centurion. They are the ONLY things that are holding me back as they are very tricky to make cover the openings back and front. I'm dreading the fact that they may not entirely cover the opening as per the CRL, and then I will have to source new pieces. I'm not sure why SDS (or other companies I've read about) make the bells so small. Anyways. I'm glad you like the coin. It shows all the Garrisons of Canada and was passed to me by a fantastic guy I troop with.

Hey. I have the bill at my house. Dealing with some health issues with my parents. I'll let you know ASAP. By the way, your bells fit better than mine for some reason. They are the only thing holding me back from centurion.

Hey Jonas. I haven’t checked in with your build for a while. You are doing great! Did you get my package yet? WOnder if it was delayed over Christmas mail rush?

Great work! SOmetimes it’s good to take a break (too bad you were sick though). It helps you to refocus. If you are afraid of the ammo belt tracking, then a hot bath for it would be okay. I don’t think I did mine. Good work on filling the holes with ABS paste. I used a larger file to sand mine down, then switched to sand paper for the final finish work and polishing. Your left front cover strip looks too long. Did you trim it back eventually?

Hey Jonas. Awesome work so far!! Sorry I've been silent. Dealing with a few family medical issues. Everything is looking great on your armor. I would recommend you remove as much of the sniper knee return edge as you need. It will make it easier to bend and conform to the calf. Don't cut into the bumps though. The thigh ammo belt is fairly easy to trim. I think there are final measurements on my build if you want to use it for a reference. Check 1/2 way down page 4. I trimmed the excess plastic just around the bottom of the flat edge. Just where it starts curving down toward your table, if that makes sense. Try and be as straight as possibly along those long edges. You will then have minimal clean up and sanding. BTW : I did finally ship off your package last week. Not sure when it will get to you Keep up the great work.

Okey dokey

Awesome job. I also forgot that I added Velcro to the tops of the boots, front and back, where the little pull tabs are. I then added Velcro to the inside of the calves, front and back. This prevents the calves from riding up. Mine never move So far in the package I have: Leather strip for holster Aluminum strip for TD Rivets, various sizes. I have lots of these left over Helmet fans, two types. These are just the fans. You will need to do some wiring for a power source, but at least you have these. I won't need them I checked you shopping list and didn't see any of the following. Question: Do you need any of this stuff?: Sticky Velcro in black and white. (can you find industrial strength near you?) Line 20 or 24 snaps Chicago screws 2" White elastic strapping for shoulders. Thin white elastic string to tie down the shoulder strap.

You’re doing great! Just make sure your cover strips are trimmed evenly (long edges are parallel) and glued so they cover the joint, and everything will look good. When it comes time to do the legs, let me know. You don’t need to completely tear apart the calves. I actually trimmed the overlap at the back with a pair of good scissors.

Looking great so far! As long as you can wiggle your hand through the forearm, you are good. If you can’t do it with the gloves then don’t worry. I put my forearm arm through, then put on my gloves and tuck them in. Good work on the armour clean up and snap removal. Youre doing great.

I know Ive said it a couple times, but I’m still packing up the stuff to send to you. Life and such, as it goes... I’ll check your posts and our PM’s again to see what else you need.

Exactly how I did it Joseph. Make sure you follow the old carpenter adage: Measure twice, cut once. Instead of using a knife, I actually used a plastic scribing tool. Google “plexiglass glass scribe tool” and you will see what looks like a knife with a hooked blade. You can find these in hardware stores and they are used to scribe and snap clear acrylic sheets. I found that the knives have a tendency to wander off the ruler. The scribe tools are easy to use. Start with a light pass, then a couple heavier ones, and then you snap. Jonas, make sure you glue the proper side down. The ABS has a very shiny “outside” and a duller inside. Once I cut the ABS, I just ran a sanding sponge up and down the snapped edge. This cleaned things up really well. You may want to take a file or some sand paper and sand all the corners to a 45 degree angle. I’m not sure if this is required by the CRL, but it makes it look good.

No worries. My Spanish is horrible, so you're way ahead of me

Baby steps are looking good My elastic straps are simply tied in a loop, and are free to slide front to back. They aren't attached to the armor in any way. I did this so that when I was dressing, I could slide the elastic strap towards my back, push down on the shoulder strip, then slide the elastic over the shoulder and settle it into one of the grooves. I was afraid that if the elastic was attached I would have to bend the shoulder bit underneath and risk the chance of the strap snapping.

Cricket's info is correct. If you look at the CRL's for a TK, the chest plate covers the ab armour more than you first ref picture. Everyone's bodyare different, but the ab buttons may only be about 2 or 3 inches from the bottom of your chest armour. Yours seem like more than that. Maybe 4"? Although, now that I look at the screen grab in Crciket's post, there seems to be allot of Ab armour showing.... I basically hiked my cod piece up as far as it would go. Easiest thing would be to start with hiking up the cod before attempting any trimming. Good luck!

I think you are definitely getting close. I don't think any knee and leg armor placement will line up perfectly at the top edge. It is hard to do. My answer would be to get as close as possible, but make sure that the front of the knee is parallel with the floor, and not angled. This really stands out and is noticed by people.

If you continue to have huge issues and aren't happy with the SDS, I would suggest ordering a new Knee Plate. I ordered the right thigh ammo pack from ATA, and the plastic was basically an exact match for SDS. Prices are reasonable. Fast service and excellent product! Just another option for you.

It's better, but they still may pick you up on the angle of the knee from the front view. Maybe someone else can chime in? You may need to tilt up the left side of the snipe plate (as you are wearing the armor) Once you do that, you may have to trim the upper 1/4" edge of the sniper knee on the left hand side: The left and right top edges of the knee may not match, but at least from looking straight on or either side it would look good. Your knee has a vastly different top side profile than mine. I have a much higher top edge to my knee. Not sure why? Did you trim yours? I do like the thinner profile of yours rather than my "ski jump" looking knee, but I didn't want to trim mine as it is the only way it would work with the calf armor. Mine: Keep going. You're doing great!

I'll just type it out... www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/47323-helotech-sds-hero-build/page/3/