FN1313

General rule of thumb is what you see before painting is what you’ll see after. I’d recommend a couple rounds of filler then sand and repeat until you can’t see the outline. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

As a note on my build I took one thigh down about half an inch at a time. Then that gave me an idea for the other about how much, the second thigh I did about an inch first then half the rest of the way to make sure that if I am oddly shaped I didn’t just guess based on the first. The kidney I did trim half an inch back from each side because it was a little too long for my body and it now sits more accurately. Also I used some tabs on the inside to help keep the sides of kidney and abdomen aligned. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn’t do snaps for some parts of my armor really only the thighs and clamshell. The arms I just glued the elastic to them with e6000 and the shins I did the glued elastic with hooks method. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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About how tall are you? I’m 5’10” and didn’t need to do any trimming on kidney/abdomen so wanted to compare. That being said I’d hold on trimming them and heating them for now. From what I could see in your picture of the abdomen and kidney alone it could be they could come up a little higher (not sure, but rather than heating the back I’d say trimming the kidney/abdomen is more likely the case. You’d trim them from the top of you need to. The thighs I did have to trim from the top myself I basically didn’t do any specific height above my knee, just went to the point it wasn’t preventing movement. I think I did about an inch from the top of where I felt my knee bone when standing. The shins do have separate side and you’ll be able to tell by the curvature in the pieces. I have a picture I can attach later but I’m in a poor service zone right now. And of course I’m sure you know but just figured I’d say it, measure twice and even three times before trimming. And when trimming things like thighs and kidney abdomen if needed best to trim small amounts at a time and test so you don’t over trim. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah two for belt and one for thigh. I think he sends the paper out of over abundance of caution because it’s a piece some can easily damage or break if they don’t handle it properly. I do appreciate his effort to provide extra parts for some of those regular damaged parts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I personally didn’t need to heat the pieces to bend them. I just was very careful about the process to make sure it wasn’t too much stress. After I got the thigh piece set with the single cap rivets I did lightly use a heat gun to sort of warm it up enough in its bent state so it would take on that shape a little more, but I didn’t do much so to avoid damage. The belt I didn’t need to heat and bend at all. I just let it naturally bend when I snap it on and Velcro it up in back. I think though that may vary based on if you are skinnier or so. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi there, great info provided above, looking forward to your progress! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Awesome, that helps confirm it for me. I built my armor I think before more references were there so it wasn’t a noticed or at least CRL requirement I don’t think. It’s been long enough I can’t recall though. I completely understand the computer installs. I usually have to manage multiple installs with configuration management tools and it’s always a lesson in patience and brain anxiety even when you have used the same code before and it’s worked. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Wasn’t expecting to finish my armor before the helmet arrived, but looks like that will be the case. At least I know that once the helmet does arrive all I need to do is put it on and I’ll be ready to submit.

Maybe I was confused, I thought he was referring to the inner thigh and not the outer thigh. Outer yes, definitely there are greeblies in those slots. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

So it’s going to depend on kit more likely, but even the AM kit as you can see with my shins above has one part that has lest of a curve (outer) and one that has more of a curve (inner) that would be how you want to assemble them. Upon first glance myself I didn’t know which went where because it wasn’t as easily distinguished but if you hold the pieces up against each other you’ll be able to notice how they curve. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

So the armor picture you posted above is for First Order (Sequel Trilogy) Stormtrooper, the picture of the helmet is an Original Trilogy Stormtrooper. Considering the armor is First Order that’s why the correction to First Order Trilogy was recommended. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Good progress! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

That’s a great topic for manual snap work. I’ve got a couple sets of snap pliers I’ve been using from making other costumes. One I use on male snaps does essentially the same as the Phillips head screwdriver, the other for the female snaps is solid and super heavy duty. The only challenge I’ve had is some of the male snaps don’t have the split openings sitting flat, so the hex bolt is a good way to help with that. Otherwise what I did today with the using the mallet to tap things into connecting is also pushing that down too. But yeah thanks for sharing that too, I’ll use the hex nut strategy on future snaps to flatten things and make it easier to snap them later. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

They can definitely be a pain. I have a heavy duty snap clamp that helps make it a little better to deal with. But even these I had to carefully take a mallet to to get them to connect together. Thankfully these ones aren’t intended to come apart. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Got the posterior rigging to the kidney setup today And now working on the back to the kidney rigging. Got the back armor elastic done and connected to the kidneys I then setup the male snaps for the shoulder straps made and clamped to cure. As well as the beginning abdomen male snaps for the rigging of the chest. I marked the location of the opposite snaps on the chest piece to rig the chest to the abdomen and glued in place. Once those set I was able to build the elastic rigging inside. I then set the nylon male snaps to the back plate for the shoulder bridge elastic. I then set the elastic strap for the cod to posterior using 3/4 inch elastic

Abdomen Button Paint I picked up a nut and bolt sizer at Lowe’s in the nuts and bolts aisle for about $5 Seems the button sizes fit the M10 circle best so I used that for marking the tape to cut I place the tape on a scrap of abs plastic and then marked the m10 holes. After marking I used a precision razor blade to cut on the outside of the mark (inside was too narrow for the button paint) Then I would cut out squares and place them over the buttons to mask off the unpaintable areas From here I used Testors enamel paints I read the instructions beforehand as in my time making and painting costumes I know every paint is different and requires special care to instructions. Being as I was brush painting and not air painting I didn’t need thinner and just needed to apply two base coats for initial coverage. And then a thicker final coat for a solid smooth gloss finish. The recommendation was wait 5 minutes between coats. Coat 1 Coat 2 Coat 3 Finally you don’t want to leave masking tape on too long, but you don’t want to remove it while paint is still wet. I got a few mixed answers of 1 hour to 6 hours of wait until removing. I went with 2 hours and then carefully pulled the tape up and away from the paint to remove it. Lighting isn’t the best for color as I am inside and don’t have natural light right now, but looks like it turned out well. Now to let it sit for 48-72 hours to cure and harden. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So the shins will line up with the natural curve of the shins and calves of the body. The more curvy part on the inside. Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

I don’t believe it should be filled, I think it existed. I’m not 100% certain, but I believe it was there, just with no greeblies Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Today’s updates Belt is done. Posterior male snaps are ready to go. Male snaps installed to the back plate. Used a long strip of nylon as more surface are should give stronger adhesion Got my storage container and of course have to rep those who got me here. Getting to painting the ab buttons M10 looks to be the right size. Just exacto cut outside the pencils circle. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[mention]Dblcross [/mention] I know you previously mentioned a surgical reason with your arm, I think gmrhodes13’s information is probably a solid way to adjust that considering the difference you have for your arms. The other arm overall looks like spacing is a little better. Overall I think your armor is looking really solid and you’ve done great work on your arms as well. I haven’t really had the opportunity to see how mine sit with the shoulders and such yet, so I can’t tell but depending may have to do similar. Great work thus far man! Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

Yeah I’m going to do that and a towel around things from there too. Good info! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I saw a member do this once and opted to do so as well to protect my armor. Got some white pillowcases from Amazon and stuff shin in one and then that in thigh and thigh in another. I’ll get some for my arms later the rest of the armor I’ll use the padding in the container to protect, but this way I limit how much each piece rubs on another. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hello there and welcome, When getting started here’s a few good resources to go through first. Info on Vetted Vendors https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/11538-the-various-types-of-armor-and-where-to-find-them/ Good all in one list of resources https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/49412-all-in-one-tk-anh-stunt-index-of-resources-by-maskedvengeance/?do=findComment&comment=690980 Hopefully you’ll be able to get some idea of where to start and soon be on path!