wook1138

Just the one hole at the bottom. I did some minor trimming and sanding on the ears. I did trim the brow, but only to straighten it (it was lower on one side). I haven’t checked with the brow trim on yet to see how it fits. I really need to finish that helmet. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No worries! All trooper talk is welcome here. Any Star Wars talk. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ha ha. No worries. I find that easy to do with Tapatalk. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have no return edges on any of my arm parts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pretty much. I have extra stencils. I would just remove 2 or 3 and then try to place the correct stripe stencils on the correct sides. They won’t line up perfectly so I will angle the stencils and do a little hand painting to adjust.

Thanks Paul. Yeah, that is the consensus here too. I'm now trying to figure out if I have to redo the whole thing or just alter the front few stripes to make it look better.

I guess hate is a strong word. I like wear and tear and weathering. I would like to weather the whole thing, but from what I understand that is not approved at higher levels. I just find it weird that we can weather this one part - and possibly the canvas belt, but that is it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Painted the hobo mics. Yeah, auto correct used hobo instead of hovi. Anyway, too much white or ok? Before After Personally, I hate the way they look with the white. Isn’t this prop wear and tear? Oh well, I’m sure it will be a Centurion requirement soon enough if it isn’t already. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks Dan! Yeah, they look very similar for sure. Well, I might leave it for now and if it gets mentioned during approval I will alter the first one or two stripes, to get rid of the 'lean'. Ah f..., who am I kidding? I'm not going to leave it.

Actually, I believe you have tube-stripe eagle eyes, Dan. I think I did mess it up - but I think it is just the front stripe that I would have to redo. Good catch. Thanks!

Well, I've actually been sitting at work this whole time, so I should get back to doing something, you know, work-related. Employee of the month!

The fixing part, that is.

Yes! Exactly.

here are the stencils. You can see how the strip at the bottom (closest to the hovi mics) has a pronounced shape to it. The uncut stencil is how is arrives from Trooperbay. For reason's of stupidity, I thought they were reversed. so I switched them (cut stencil). Here is a comparison. I would have used the upper stencil for this side. Based on whatever reference pic I had at the time, this looked more right.

Oh, I hope your are right, Daniel. It is hard to tell. Some reference pics don't seem so different, and then some look very different than mine. Anyway, I'm not going to touch them... for now

Yep, they are wrong. In my haste, I misread something in this post:

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Here are more pics Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I painted... and I flip-flopped on what looked better. I used stencils from trooperbay - and to me it looked like the stencils were flipped around the wrong way on the template. But it does look off when compared to the pic you posted. Now, if you will excuse me, I have to go throw up.

So, just puttered for a few minutes tonight. Got the front cover strips on the shins and test fitted the ammo pack to the right thigh. I know there are standard measurements for where to drill the hole on the thigh. But I test fitted it and mine will be a bit different. Question is, do I centre the ammo pack to the cover strip or try to have the rivets equally spaced from the back return edge? Clamped on after quick hot bath. I think both side are about 12-15 mm from back return edge Shins Before I’ve managed to lose some magnets. I’m tapped out! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I found some pics I don’t think I posted. They are of the vocoder. I have done one coat. It is hard to tell what should actually get painted. Pencil in the outline First coat still wet How is the shape? Again, hard to tell where the black should stop. Oh yeah. The left side tube striped after the toothpick treatment. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

To follow up on QuartZ's post: I used both nylon and ABS plates. The nylon did not give me a lot of problems aside from minor discoloration immediately below the snap plate - I used magnets with no (or rare) clamps. The bigger issue came when I tried to use the ABS snap plates... Armor - AP Glue - E6000 ("Made in USA" but purchased in Canada) Snap Brand - Tandy (Nickle plated line 24) Snap Plate Material - ABS (as provided by AP) Clamping Method - Spring clamps and magnets In my worst-case example (see image in first post), I used a lot of E6000 (compared to what I had been using) and applied spring clamps. The clamps were on for at least a day (I can't 100% recall). There was a very slight convex shape to the bottom of the snap itself (the metal base part) - which could have pushed against the armor a bit. The plate was flat - which actually allowed a little room for the metal part when placed on the very slightly curved armor. I hope this helps

Once Anovos actually issues the refund then their estimated timing gets better. It was 4 or 5 days for mine, so here’s hoping. Get the money and forward it to AP before your wife gets any the wiser.

Lookin' awesome Sean! I was just wondering when we would see you here. By the way, how the eff did you get that sniper knee looking so good

He actually 3D printed his ABS snap plates (no nylon, just one piece of plastic). But yes, tape went on the back of the actual snap part and was glued right to the armor. Did the video help? The snap plate is usually just one piece of ABS or nylon webbing with a snap. I haven't tried adding a piece of ABS (or nylon) below the plate for protection. Not sure how this would affect the overall adherence of the snap base.