LTM

I attended an armor party last weekend and a few TK's commented to remove all or risk tearing up your boots. Consensus with that group (none had built a WTF) was to have the longer part on the outside

Ok, got confirmation that I don't need to worry about the ridges, so my cover strips will be ok. Thanks for the responses, they do help! Here are the side profile shots, waiting to hear back from Rocky on larger pieces.

Pro -tip of the day! Give yourself one extra adult beverage on me!

Can I ask how big a pot of water you are using for shaping? I can't get my head around how big a pot I will need for mine (two burner size pot)?

So I can get this to fit, the lines are where the hard lines are molded into the bicep. In the front I made those 20mm (10mm per side), in the back I need more room. But the cover strip would still be in the middle, will this cost me centurion level (back of bicep). In a perfect world I would not have the hard lines molded in and it would just be a smooth area to the butt joint. If I had to I could try to "iron" out the hard lines and make them smooth. Or I can cut the ridge off and add plastic and smooth it with ABS paste.

When I ordered I let Rocky know my height, is there a way to know if I got the larger version? BTW, I did ask Rocky if they had a larger bicep (I understand they also have smaller versions) and the answer sadly was no.

Can I ignore the raised ridges on the back of the bicep and just place the cover strip between?

Ok, can someone talk me off the ledge when it comes to biceps. This is a WTF kit so it has the ridges where the cover strips go, if there were no ridges I would not have the fitting issue. I would not say I have large biceps by any means, but I can't figure out how others are getting this to fit. I did go to an armor party this weekend and got great advice on other areas, but the guys there were stumped on how to get the biceps to fit (they have built other kits). Also learned that you will "swell" a little so if it is tight at first, good luck getting it off later. Maybe I can reshape the plastic and remove the ridges on the back of the bicep (or will I screw up the plastic trying to remove a ridge?). I have the front cut and can fit a 20mm strip. Here is the back (of left bicep) and you can see the ridges and how far apart... Interior shape At this point I am ready to sell (cause if I am having fitment issues at bicep, good luck on the rest of this fitting) and get a bigger TK kit (I am 6 foot 194 pounds) Does anyone sell larger biceps (I guess if I went this route I will have to paint the entire suit). Any advice/help?

Nice eye! The whole thing is a miss-mash of parts and vendors I thought "why not". One day the t-tracks will come in and I can post completion pictures.

Look what shapeways sent...

You are going to be putting some force behind squeezing the trigger (gloves and excitement at trooping) so you want it to be robust. Not to mention letting a child play with it for a "sec" and them really pulling on the trigger. Figure out the max throw you want (in mine it is 1/4 inch) and set your forward spring to bottom out on something solid. You could even simplify and use a piece of bent metal (like the bottom of the tube retainer at the rear). Over time whatever you use will need to be replaced so keep that in mind as well. More I think about it why not use the top part of a clicker ball point pen? Once you have the maximum throw, hot glue the switch in place where the contact is just made. This way you wont put any significant pressure on the switch. In mine the two small posts broke off, but the hot glue is more than strong enough to hold it.

understatement but that sucks! I would immediately contact Rocky at WTF and ask if they have any replacements (at your cost) or other solutions as well. See if Walt can help first.

For anyone else needing the manual (if just to get some ideas), here is the link from Master Blaster https://www.dropbox.com/s/snajmo4wxtklq9w/UBER%20BLASTER%20KIT%20INSTRUCTIONS.pdf?dl=0

Question to make sure I am doing this correctly. This is a picture of the right biceps that are uncut (whoops, the picture is reversed). This seam needs to be reduced to 15mm for the cover strip as it is facing forward. This is where I cut the left bicep at 15mm (from what I have read the front needs to be cannon and the adjustments are made in the back?)

Glad that I can help, just paying it forward as I am building my armor at the same time. For the rumble motor, I am placing it high so that you feel it in between your thumb and finger. Just drilled a slightly larger hole, and placed the motor in it loose. This way it moves around a little bit in the hole and increases the affect (IMHO). If you need other shots on how to mount the trigger and switch, let me know.

Hollowed out the front opening in order to install the light board. Thought about installing it in the breech, but for this build will be easier to run the wires down the tube.

Speaker is in place

Drilled a hole in the handle for the rumble motor

Paint is on, not weathered yet

Here is a listing for electronics using a rotary switch: https://www.ebay.com/itm/LIGHTS-SOUND-DIY-KIT-for-Blaster-Master-Uber-E-11-Blaster-Rifle-Model-/232102221992 This is a three part series where he shows you how to build it: Not affiliated with him, but I have the kit and watched the videos. I also stayed at a holiday inn express (too old a reference?)

Lots of sanding and using a high build primer, first coat of silver paint is on. The end cap was a test of the black hammered paint. Can't find it in satin, so I will have to put a final coat over to tone down the semi-gloss.

I have both plus his blaster. I think you could do it, but I would suggest getting the shapeways parts from Lee. Personally I am building the 3D kit Lee's parts: https://www.shapeways.com/shops/shadow-defense-systems?li=pb

Credits sent, new guy paying it forward. 3VD43987KF859125T

Additional screws added Gun selector screw added Bottom grip screw

The counter is missing the screws Looks better already.