LTM

Blue locktight, don't use the red! Don't ask me how I know this...

Cut off the front of the scope for drilling out the lens area. Went ahead and removed the molded on screws (drilled a pilot hole first) after drilling out the lens area. Will paint inside black.

Found a template for making your own power cell, after reading on making everything will just go with the following from shapeways https://www.shapeways.com/product/PCZQF8EBL/power-cell-assembly-2-with-4-resistors?optionId=59450143

As to the barrel t-tracks, just not happy with how it is turning out. So I ordered a set from: http://wannawanga.com/products/t-track/

Adding the modified scope from Lee that will hold the BlastFX radar Cut off the end cap from the Doopy and removed some of the internal plastic. Will remove more later, this is just to rough in everything at this point.

Not a fan of high high the T-track sits on the barrel, so time to modify. Cut in two and use plastic card stock. Now after painting I can glue it to the barrel.

Looking at the capacitors and the build threads (so many lost images, thanks again PhotoB). I have the Doopy and Master Blaster, leaning towards the Doopy to be rebuilt with Tino's kit.

Just putting the chassis together before I do sanding and electronics. Will have one of the ultra cool displays from Paul in the scope.

Thank you sir for that! I have been staring at so many pictures I could not see the tree through the forest.

Hey Guys, need help on the placement of the counter. I see that it should be at the centerline of the scope in height, but where does it line up fore and aft of the scope (IE How far forward does it go)? Placement of the bracket, the rear leg of the scope is in line with the pivit point of the stock. The black bracket is what the counter would mount on (I just assume you drill through it when you have it placed like you want). This is my guess on counter placement

Rail has been fitted, so far so good.

Replaced the ring with the brass one from the kit. Still need to sand, just test fitting as much I can before I start adding filler where needed.

Very impressed with Master Blaster, the folding stock fits perfectly with the end cap. The front catch is a little loose, will have to make it a little more robust.

Using the screws from Master Blaster for now, I will probably use the rivets from Tino's kit

Cut off the old tube support and drilled out the rivets. Now to attach back to the body.

3D would be fine, I just wanted something that would not break when be handled by kids. Blaster Master makes a great kit.

Look what the brown truck just dropped off

Building an E-11 with a Master-Blaster 3d, Doopy parts, Tino's upgrade kit, Lee's parts for BlastFx, and real SMG parts. Electronics from Master-Blaster and BlastFx.

Second round of filler, first had a few air pockets. Sanded up to 320, will let it dry some more and then sand 400- 800 followed by polishing.

Congratulations! Glad you got the armor finished before the baby.

rear of left forearm

return cut How much to take off the back at the rough cut stage (before initial fitting)?

Might still need to cut more from the top (totally flush?)

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