Dracotrooper

By comparison, I went pretty buck-wild on my scope hollowing; ended up with two gaping holes recovered via green stuff. Very precise and impressive hollowing job Dan, good on you

Good to know Dan. I may try a few test runs on what you've prescribed until I'm brave enough to attempt this mod. - I'm still quite the newbie in doing Dremel work, let alone resin projects. Good on you for your excellent results, keep the updates coming, you're doing a heck of a job!

Wow, some really stellar upgrades going on [emoji106] - you have steady hands to run along the t-tracks as you have, most impressive!

Looking good! Nice work [emoji106]

I thought I'd share some of my research as I look to create that vertical slit piece at the front end of the folding stock. Ducati has the housing for it described as a 'Front Pivot Bushi' in his pinned build thread entitled: Ducati's Build. Interesting to compare how different builders have gone to recreate this and that vertical piece of the folding stock. For a stock that doesn't unfold, like mine, I will see to mimic as closely as possible that vertical piece as shown in the FISD E-11 Blaster Reference.

Thanks for dropping by Tino - always a pleasure Hey terrific Fred, good to know, I'll keep the show going

I'm encouraged to keep to task, thanks Brian!

Interesting find, I will see to incorporate this on my build, thanks for sharing - as others have said, your build has been a great ride, very quality build, excellent work [emoji106]

Hi everybody, Ah, the fun continues and quite happy about some results this latest go. In this latest round, I've cut out the latch on the inner rod of the folding stock and installed the latch itself. Hinge bolts also installed; folding stock now swivels and extends to the full back position. Although not pictured, it locks into place when pushed against the end cap, which was really exciting for me to see that functionality. I know I needed to be pretty picky about the screw used for making the latch piece. It was a screw with a width just over 4mm so there was minimal back and forth when placed through and against the vent hole notch. The screw was wood in type so that it will have maximum grab when screwed into the pencil. It's length was measured out carefully as well so that there's minimal gap between the folding stock and receiver tube. Here is a close-up of the latch cut-out. Haven't done much since the rough cut-out of it. I used my Dremel with Diamond Cutter to shorten the screw. Pliers were used to hold the screw during cutting; the screw gets really hot! 5mm black heat shrink tubing placed and heated with heat gun to shrink the tubing onto the bolt thread. Latch piece screwed into pencil. Seeing the latch piece installed was a moment of pride as I prepared a long way to get here. It is functional and able to slide up and down the inner rod =) I was initially pretty confused on how to use carriage bolts for this part of the installation. The folding stock hinges installed nice and flush, with a bit of tightness when swiveling the folding stock, which I like. Here are some pictures of the folding stock attached. Finally, I confirmed that my latch piece dimensions are correct as it is able to bring the folding stock fairly flush against the receiver tube with showing minimal gap. Thanks for reading!

Right right, tiny pilot hole ensures for precision and one drill bit size down for pilot hole that's counter sunk a bit with bolt diameter to allow for easier grab contact when bolt is manually screwed in. I can see, that it is here, effort can be made to make sure bolt is coming in perpendicular with the piece. As it turned out, I blundered my pilot hole and waiting for green stuff to cure to have a second go. Interesting results you've come away with in using Blu tac, glad that's working for you. Will need to explore this method for myself if I have the need. Thanks Brian for your help.

As I'm relatively new to hobby building...I have a question about screw installation. With my coach bolts measuring a width of 5 / 32 " including the thread, do I simply go one step down to 9 / 64 " to create the pilot hole? Following, in going about to manually screw the coach bolt, would I then have the thread groves for a nice snug fit? This makes sense to me but I want to know if this is common practice or perhaps there's another method.

Ah of course! Thanks for clearing that up for me Dan [emoji106]

Thanks Dan - I understand more of the mechanics involved in using this kind of screw, very helpful. As I am creating a folding stock that can lock and unlock at the latch, I am wondering if applying CA glue at this hinge part would inhibit this functionality... Interesting testimonial Chris, with the friction giving way, you need to apply CA glue anyway. If I need to apply CA glue, how to still enable swivelling of my folding stock? I am still rather confused...

Hi all, I'm unclear as to how to install the bolts that hold the folding stock fork ends to the rear-under side of the receiver tube. The bolts from the completion set are domed with a square part directly under this domed bolt head. The bolt including thread measures 5 / 32 inches. How do I turn the screw and what pilot hole size is best to ensure a snug fit? What to do with the square base directly under the domed bolt head? I did a crude attempt that was strenuous and caused loud squeak sounds!

oooh, your blaster is looking more fine as each day progresses Dan! I like your measure twice, cut once approach. It's unfortunate about the trigger guard mishap but you still have plenty of aluminum for a second go. I will also need to study Chris's documentation on how he successfully bend aluminum.

Hi all, I recently acquired a very interesting piece for my E-11 Blaster and excited to share! I have a replica Hengstler 400 Counter created by Tino himself. I just so happen to inquire about his counters after placing my completion set order as he had a limited run back on 2015 for conversion counters. I was delighted to hear he was about to do a limited run of complete counters and that I was first in line for one of these. As it turns out, he is not offering a run of these any longer so I have the one and only unique piece! I'm feeling pretty special about now. This replica Hengstler 400 Counter is a complete piece, fitted with an original Hengstler socket, and maintains the exact dimensions of the original counters. Tino masterfully shortens the metal housing and plastic cover to correct Hengstler size. Sorry Eagle enthusiasts, no big or small logo on this type of counter =) Without the two screws and boarder as well. Furthermore, this type of counter came with a D-shaped window for the plastic case side of the counter. The curvature is nice and I appreciate this detail. I agree with Tino that this stylized window exceeds the flat window on the original counters. The reset button for the number rolls is operational and numbers can be reset to zero with a push of this button. Number rolls are set manually by finger. Number rolls are each in black with all lettering in white, which is screen accurate. A really interesting feature that adds to the realism of the piece is the preservation of the coil; it can be seen inside the black plastic socket through the slots. The coil also adds believable weight to the counter. Adding further to the realism is Tino's added touch of including soldering and a short wire to the connector pins. I also asked Tino to age the counter and he's done a stand-up job. Tino with his fine craftsmanship, impressive indeed - I am fortunate to own this unique piece.

Ahh dude that's exactly my approach as well - so funny our approaches are similar: pursue excellence with component pieces. I think I have similar blood to your part of the world as I align myself with Tino's build approach as well lol

Nice work Dan - your blaster is really taking shape now. Not sure what stage these photos are on your build but applying CA glue to go along with the bolts may go along way to ensure the grip piece remains attached to the receiver tube. I remember Tino saying somewhere that the glue provided in his completion set is good for resin to resin contact. =), my two cents, hope you're having as much fun as we the audience!

Funny you should relay this - I too have this spare aluminum part as I opted for the upcharge to get the finished scope rail with Tino's Completion set. Good to know it measures 2mm in thickness. Warning! Aluminum gets really hot, really fast! I found out the hard way when I initially attempted to cut to various sizes, the 5mm aluminum rod provided in the kit. The trigger guard is a much larger piece of aluminum and you want straight edges too, let alone a curved surface! I am thinking commissioning a fabricator to get it done for a few bucks is the safest way to go, and it also ensures for a quality piece. Yeah, I'm without the proper tools. Perhaps a solution can be suggested here...

Let's get some traction on this together shall we? I've come across a posting by Lucas (ZeroRoom) back in 2011 with topic 'The Best Sterling Templates EVER!' I downloaded the PDF on the trigger group: The length of the trigger guard, laid out and flat is 105mm long and discussions say the width is between 11 and 13mm. Perhaps we can gauge a workable width by measuring the width of our Doopydoos 'ports' (for lack of a better word), that take in the trigger guard ends? Discussions say dimensions are not off of a British Sterling, but I gather the measurements are still suitable.

Tino, you're the man

Cool, very cool - I'm going for my personal best with aim for a screen accurate, battle worn, and realistic E-11. If I get mine confiscated, I'll be sure to let you know for kicks lol I see that the reference has multiple mod choices as well - lends to the builders skills, supplies, and tools available, making for a very versatile guide book. Will keep it close! Thanks again [emoji6]

Ah, so I made the love of the build contagious Joseph - exactly my plan! [emoji2]Thanks for the bump about the reference photos [emoji106]

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Hi all, I've made significant progress on the folding stock over the weekend. Happy to say I am well on my way to making the latch for the folding stock fully operational. I've borrowed much of the know-how from T-jay's 2nd E-11 Build on FISD. Having already hollowed out the folding stock; I proceeded to hollow out, let's call it the front end retainer, which is that part that holds the inner rod at the front end. Discovered 6" is sufficient and purchased the correct bit extender size. Used a 3/8" spade bit to make the hole. The hollow aluminum rod was drilled at the end, width wise to make way for support pins. The other end was trimmed to length to match support pins through the stock cube. Pins were cut to recommended lengths (30mm for the front and 20mm for the back) from the solid 5mm diameter aluminum rod. Front end of folding stock drilled through with 3mm drill bit then a 5mm drill bit to prepare for pin installation. There are quite a few components sourced and revised to make the latch mechanism work. A hollow styrene plastic tube at 5mm diameter was used to link the pencil to the spring coil. 30mm piece of styrene used to support spring against plastic tube. Length of components revised according to the recommended lengths and further confirmed by test fitting. Here's is a close-up of how the individual components worked together to form a functional latch. Here's the fully installed folding stock rod with functional latch components installed and pins in place. Here are some more details to come. The latch opening needs to be created and the latch itself needs to be created and installed. The 'washers' at the front end also need to be revised and installed along with the support piece that runs down the front. I had quite the ride putting this part together! Felt like I was doing open heart surgery for a bit lol I have to give a shout out to Tino for his detailed build; thank you thank you for your contributions to the forum; I would not even have dreamed of such a mod let alone do it, with out your enthusiasm and technical documentation. Three cheers for Tino! Jesse