TheSwede

Yes it is and up to Expert Infantry (CRL below) if you choose to go for Centurion they need to float in the back so I say wait before you glue it, you might not need to. The chest and back is connected using an elastic or fabric (canvas is popular) strap and by using the latter in combination with the Centurion required white elastic it should hold those bridges in place Shoulder Straps These shall be securely mounted in front and may free float in back. They may be affixed with rivets, Velcro, or adhesive. The rear tab of the shoulder strap is optional and may or may not be present. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): No visible rivets are allowed. OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): These shall free float in back. These shall be glued in front. The plastic shoulder straps need to be held down in the back via a white elastic band to the white fabric that connects/bridges the chest and back piece. Chest Armor Chest plate overlaps the abdominal plate. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): OPTIONAL Level three certification (if applicable): Chest and back shall be connected with a white fabric or preferably elastic strap at the shoulders.

Looking good so far, nice blaster

Looking forward seeing your build

Easy approval - EIB and Centurion next

No that is a dome head Here`s a pan head The bend isn`t required, just wanted to let you know how the ones in the Movie was and....adding velcro isn`t really necessary, sure there will be some scratches but unless you put it on with a stabbing motion there`s no need but that`s just me wanting screen accuracy and not minding a few scuffs - totally up to you

Looking good The CRL is updated so the TD screws need to be pan head if they are not. OPTIONAL Level two certification (if applicable): Clips shall be attached with slotted, pan head style screws, and be black (two per clip). And one other thing, it apperas as you have the bends the "wrong way", they should be outwards but that is only for screen accuracy

On a sidenote: my team won 2-0 woop woop Anyways.....finished the shins and here is were I deviate from RS as I´m not a fan of the two "outer" pairs (2 outer right and 2 outer left) one gets with the kit, so I bought some TM Shins. Sniperplate is RS though so one can safely say the plastics match

Looking good Dan

Todays mission was shoulder bells...used my TM:s as a guide and well not much to it, draw a line, cut, sand and glue som elastic and you’re done And that’s it, time to shower and head home to watch football or soccer as some of you call it - it’s a derby - veeeeery important game

As little as possible of the raised/flat edges, try not to rush though and look at other builds here and I can recommend TM:s Hero build on FB and of course asking questions

Hey Craig - we’re happy to have you here

Fiddling away and try to saver the moment of building Painted the screws and side rivets Cut some coverstrips for the legs, already know how wide they need to be and in my case they are around 21-22 depending on how accurate I measure And by having them I could start cutting the front of the thighs as I´m using the strips as a guide on how much to trim and I marked them so I know which goes were...here they are and that`s a wrap for today

Well that`s no fun....if you don`t mind the wait I can send you some, I have plenty

Gotcha perhaps a little longer elastic for the crotch and stronger elastic (double up) in the center will keep that butt in place

We all know that feeling so...is the cod and butt as high up as you possible can? How would the fit feel if you closed the back/kidney gap a half inch? And is the buttplate secured in the center? It looks a bit loose. Almost there and I think we should have a shout to Tony @ukswrath and Andrew @Sly11 to hear their thoughts as well, they might say that gap is perfectly fine for Centurion

Just unscrew one that you have and take it with you to the store for a match

Looking good Andrew

One other thing....regarding the belt, if I´m not mistaking on that first post you have an RS cloth belt, why not use that one? With the strapping pack the poppers should be installed or is something a miss? I got the strapping pack and the belt was all good with poppers already installed but I was missing the poppers on the ab plate....someone must have been in a hurry to ship Contacted RS and they said they would sort it out, hopefully I´ll have it during next week.

Just noticed: change the screws on the butt plate to match the others (bracket screws)

Hmmm...the pics I included seem to be missing, I’ll fix that for you later, it’s my bedtime now Edit:fixed

Troopers helping Troopers

Fold the belt in half to find the center and then lat it on the ab plate, making sure it’s at the right hight so that when the plastic portion of the belt is added it look something like this: To locate were to put the snaps on the belt use a marker on the snaps on the ab plate and it will rub of showing were to make the holes or push down to make an indention. While on the ab plate, if you used E6000 I would suggest removing the button plates and making the corners straight for that screen accurate look Great work on the helmet the vocoder could however benefit some TLC making the lines a bit sharper Just long enough to connect the chest and back, I recommend looking at some Centurion applications to see strapping options And on a sidenote: I’m also working on an RS kit at the moment, coulden’t resist the temptation and...look at the RS reference in the gallery section here alot of great info there

Could you try it with your undersuit on and lift the cod and butt plate up as high as possible?

You should be good to go for basic approval so I say send your application to your GML and see what happens To improve the overall look I suggest try and shorten the shoulder elastic and see if those shoulder bells kan come in closer to chest/back plate and by removing some of the return edge (a little at a time) on the thighs they might come up a bit, starting with the inner halves

Happy BBB-day - can’t go wrong with a TM