Jaltrooper

Thanks Brick!!

Thank you Cricket!!! Exciting day over here in Alabama!

BOOM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! TK 12569 Reporting for Duty!!!! Thanks to everyone for all of the help and encouragement!!!! Will be submitting for EIB immediately!

What an awesome topic! Watching with great interest! Did want to help by noting that there is no "indent" inside (for inside space / clearance) for the ear / sides. Those ear pieces are separate and come attached to the outside of the helmet, with the interior smooth / flat. Just a heads up for measuring / fitting.

Haha...the aluminum would be about the same thickness...but I prefer Mountain Dew.<br><br> Thanks Fragarock...I'll find it and have a look!

Sorry for the delay...been working on my TK armor. Spyder...here is how I did it. I got some "craft aluminum" small sheets from my local Hobby store: I made a "outline / tracing" of the area with regular notebook paper: Trimmed it till it fit (roughly...then "eyeballed" the bottom left curve): \ I then traced that onto the sheet of craft aluminum sheet: I cut it out a little larger than the pattern, then shaved it down to fit. The "groove" will cover the small gap at the left side... I then took a larger screwdriver and slowly bent a "curve" in it (that is why I made it slightly larger, once the curve is in it, it'll "seat" better in the opening) Also, do this slowly. On the thin aluminum, it bends very easily, but once it is over-bent...it is hard to re-shape. And if you get a "pinch" or crease...start over. Then I "sanded" it using a 100 grit silicone sheet, rubbing the aluminum on the sheet to avoid scratching the face. Did the same thing for the "sliding groove / ejection thing"...and here you go. I also made a small piece to put up near the handle. You can also see that I am trying to get a serviceable "spring" look in the groove...but I may just "paint" those for effect...it is hard to get the pieces to look right...but I will try everything I can! Hope that helps! Thanks for the tip triumph! I have the replacement screws and bolts and am going to get to work on those, the scope and the counter / power cylinder detail as I go. My idea is, I don't want to eliminate the durability of the Hyperfirm, but I do want to add some more realistic features too. Need to find the middle ground. This port will be solid and durable once I glue it in and weather it a bit. More on this down the road as I get to it. Thanks All! Jon

Working hard! I have my Pics in to the GML, and my official application in to the 501st. A glorious day indeed! Having said that, I did all my yapping up front, then focused on the build, and haven't put as much in for the "newbie" side as I should...so I'll do that now. What I wanted to do was add some things I noticed / saw and learned through the process, and hopefully it can save time and issues on the back end for my fellow newbies building the AM armor (or any for that matter). So, here are my top 10 "Newbie" tips. 1. In order to build a good set of armor, you have to read and research several builds. Tony (above) has 2 awesome builds (1 Anovos / one AM 1.0) that I was able to reference, along with others doing a AM 2.0 build (Bloopertrooper, Navajo Bro, Ryno Hawk...and a few more). But I did want to put this disclaimer in there...your armor fits you, and your set, even if from the same manufacturer, could be different. What I mean is, maybe it cured tighter than another set, maybe there were items that caused it to be at different angles, shapes, etc. My point is, never just go off of the measurements of others...check, re-check and double check YOUR armor and YOUR fit. Why? 57mm may be 61mm on your armor. Your belt may be thicker, longer, etc...my point is, use the other builds as a guide...but ALWAYS check with the armor and the pieces to your build and fit before doing ANY adjustments, trimming or cutting to the armor. Best advice I can give. 2. As above - Measure 3x / cut once...you see that everywhere. But I would also add, SLOW DOWN. I made more "mistakes" in the last week trying to get done than I did in the Month prior. Something to be said about that. 3. Be as prepared with equipment as you can...but don't over-do it. I bought $60 in dremel bits...and only used the sanding drum. I bought "aviation snips" and used them 2x (could have used my tin snips). My point is, double check your existing tools, and if you can substitute, do it. I would guess I have about $120 of things I really didn't need 4. Change your utility knife and Exacto blades regularly. the smoother the cut, the easier it is. 5. Fit as much as you can. Use that painter's tape and get the armor on. Nothing will substitute for a good fit than actually wearing the armor. and seeing where it lays on you. 6. Trust your instinct...and develop your own ideas also. I have a couple of spots where I am very proud of how I went ahead and did things (non-approval related) using my own idea or ingenuity. That is what is fun about the build part. It isn't just fun, but you could be helping others along the way. 7. Take the time to do a build thread. as above, people will have a look, see and help. Much easier to get advice and assistance when the folks who have been there before can get eyes-on! 8. Be sure to sand your contact areas where gluing. I re-did 2 pieces from rushing and not sanding. E-6000 (or whatever adhesive you choose) will hold 1000x better if you sand the contact areas prior to applying glue. 9. Make sure you cover the entire area with the adhesive, spread it with a craft stick. Also, let the E-6000 "pre cure" for about 2-3 minutes before adhering, you will avoid as much "mess" and it'll hold better while you clamp / magnet. 10. Finally, enjoy the time you are building. This is a LOT of fun. I never in a hundred years would have thought I would have been building models at 47 years old (neither did Mrs. Trooper! Haha). I turned on the music, got to look at a bunch of "Star Wars details"...movie pics and other great stuff. Who wouldn't enjoy this? I get it...just felt like adding a little reminder in there. Have FUN!!! Anyway, I really thought the AM 2.0 was the right choice for me and my height. Most of the adjustments I made were on width, but the height, for my tall frame, I think fit right on point. And, don;t forget the Blaster! Have fun with that too! I'll keep tweaking right up to my EIB and Centurion submissions, but am really excited about getting that TK #! I'll post my submission here for everyone to see all detail. Wish me Luck!!! Jon

Here's how I did the belt. I placed the belt upside down and marked the top / bottom using the plastic belt piece: With the belt being 3" and the plastic being right at 4", to angle the ends I took a 1/2" in / 1/2" out block in the corners then connected the two lines on the edge...then cut along those lines. This gave me the 45 degree angle on the corners of the belt. I drilled out the pre-drilled holes so I could mark / keep the belt in place throughout the build: Once I marked where the plastic goes...I measured the belt and taped it in place level with the bottom of the ab button plate: I also taped the "snap caps" on the second ammo box from the end. I measured and marked the snap locations onto the ab plate. I made the snaps 2mm down from the edge of the canvas belt. Then installed the belt to ab snap (females) on the belt. Was mad about my punch going missing...I found it for the holster install, but had to use my soldering iron (creates a 5/32 hole...and prevents the canvas from fraying.) downside is the ugly burn mark which gets covered by the rivet and washer anyway. Cut my drop box elastic (10" / soldering iron to the edges) checked where those need to be to have the drop boxes line up with the belt edge and installed them. I had to cut "around" where the rivets were to go, So they did not get in the way of using washers on the rivets (you always need to use washers on the back side of a rivet when possible to give it something to "grip". I use this to "score" four small lines into the male part of the snaps, it gives a nice / even lay down in the snap and makes for a great install. I also used some loctite fabric adhesive to keep my drop box elastic in position as much as I can. Riveted on the drop boxes (used my speed square and cutting mat to make sure they were perfectly aligned with the edges of the belt. after that I get this: Before I added the rivet covers I did a test fit. after that...I took the "heat gun" (Mrs. Trooper's pink blow dryer...does a great job!) and an old Stainless Pot...and I gently heated up the ends (wearing gloves) and bent each half slightly to conform a little to the ab section. This keeps the belt looking less rigid as well. After the left There you have it!

You bet brother! Looking forward to it!

Thanks Sol! Got up early this morning...finished the helmet...installed did my final coat on all rivets and clean up...installed foam and wiped out 95% of the "punch list". Submitting pics for my GML...then on to EIB submission. hopefully you will all know me henceforth as "TK....." hahaha. Will put in build pics for remaining items shortly.

Here is my "punch list" for the items I plan on doing: 1. Slight "hot bath" adjustment at shoulders to straighten / center straps to keep them centered. 2. Install Thigh ammo belt (done) 3. Install holster (done) 4. Lower thigh / garter system by 1 1/2 inches for proper gap / fit (done) 5. Install right side kidney-to-ab "hold snap plate" to eliminate overlap and keep it properly located.(will post build to show / explain) 6. Install foam in shoulder bells and shins to eliminate need to "adjust" 7. Remove / reinstall snap on ab-to-belt with "popper" snaps for better hold 8. re-do shin closures with magnets using cricket's idea (thanks Cricket!!) And to finish the helmet: Custom lens install (own design) Plasti-dip interior (done) install frown mesh (done / trooperbay mesh) Review / complete electronics upgrades & fans I don't see anything that will keep me from my basic / troopable approval and will submit to my GML this evening when I get the holster on and the lenses in. At least I'll have time to get the builds in now! Haha.

They are lined up right on the edge. Used a framing square with my cutting mat measurements. I either moved it with my thigh or my belt came un-snapped from the ab (one of my fixes that needs to happen).<br><br> I'll show that when I post my belt build.

Thanks Tony and Chris!<br><br> I had some great help...very much appreciated!<br><br> 100%...this was a EIB to Centurion build...so once I am an official TK, there will be submissions on the way showing the details.<br><br> I just need to do the cleaning up on the fit and it'll be done.

Hi All! Well, I did the fitting this evening...still have some detail work to do...but, man...is it fun to suit up!!! Full disclaimer...I still have a lot of things to do...and the helmet isn't my AM...still finishing the details on that. Got my new thigh ammo belt from AM today, so I am getting that on this evening. Mounting the holster this evening as well. But I am pretty happy with the fit so far. I just need to lower the thighs (easily done with the Pencap510 garter system)...and do some other comfort and convenience adjustments. But, I am pretty happy with how this build is really coming together...so...here it is so far. Action Shot: My ugly mug (kid on Christmas morning look!!!!!) White MOOOOON!!! You can see that lowering the thighs about 2 inches...boom...perfect fit! Gotta get those gloves tucked in! Haha. Anyway, I have my build pics on the belt, the thighs and straps, etc...I'll get those in for everyone to complete the build thread. Thanks again to everyone who has helped me! This is a great amount of fun, and I am truly looking forward to getting out there and trooping with my Garrison soon! Have a few ideas about how to improve the fit and finish without much major work...need to sand a few places and bend / hot bath others...but overall I am really pleased with how the AM armor fit my 6'2" frame from the height perspective. being skinny, I did have to trim a bit...but it was worth it! Enjoy!

Haha! Thanks Chris. Yes, I actually have one one the way from AM...I had a shipping confirmation # about 1 hour after sending the Pay Pal. Was pretty quick. Been working out of town this week, but will get some more pics and build info in. Frankly, I am all but done once I get some helmet details completed, glue / attach my shoulder straps to the back plate, then do some minor fitting adjustments...then I'll be posting some suited up pics...and it's on to approval!

Ok, so, again...the best laid plans of mice and men... Tried my best to get done...but made a small mistake. In reading one of the tutorials / how to's...I made a critical mistake. I saw where the "measurement of the Thigh ammo pack should be..." not taking into account this was for an Anovos TK...I cut it to that measurement...it does not fit the AM Thigh. Note to newbies...not all measurements are the same...best to do your own fitting and use tutorial #'s a a "guide"...not the law. Anyway. sorry for being absent recently, I was feverishly working to try to make our Garrison's troop for the Autism Society of Alabama at the "World of Wheels" convention...but alas. I went down and helped all I could Saturday, but was delayed for personal reasons yesterday. Still go to hang out with some of the great folks of the AG...and hopefully helped quite a bit. Back to the build: Attached the biceps to the forearms with 2" black elastic. Left a 1/4" - 1/2" gap and fitted first. I started with the Bicep, putting the elastic parallel to the "inner strip" (covering the strip)...then did a fitment on the forearm, traced the forearm mounting location with a pencil and then applied that last. Clamped the ends and used magnets inside for the cure. Time for the Ab-to-Kidney connection install: I wanted to insure I had a good / solid fit. so I used a piece of 2" x 5 1/2" long Nylon Webbing, and made a 1 piece attachment. Prior to doing this, I had added a support (to both sides) for the ab and Kidney armor, Cutting a piece to glue inside at this install area. I then took the measurements I made for the rivets, and essentially marked the middle of the webbing @ 1" (2" webbing) and them repeated the marks from the Ab & Kidney rivet holes onto the webbing, using the center as the "edge" and marking which side was the top. Funny story...I went to the Tandy store locally, and bought a $14.00 leather punch which had several sizes, including the 5/32" I needed. I removed it from the box, put the right size (again, 5/32) on, and set it down.I got it for this application, and the belt & holster. Time to use it...it grew legs and walked off...I have NO idea where it went. So, I just used my soldering iron. Turns out, the holes were the perfect 5/32" size, and I had the extra-added benefit of having the holes "sealed" with the heat to avoid future fraying. Not that I recommend over the punch, but heck...2 birds with one stone! Did a check-fit, then proceeded to install. Thanks to Joseph (justjoseph63) on the forums, I had the accurate rivets needed. Relatively easy to install, I put the rivet in, then taped the back of it with painter's tape to hold it in place, used the "flat side" of my snap anvil, then added the washer. To install, I used a thinner screwdriver, lined it up where it transitioned from the screwhead to the round part...slightly thicker than the rivet's gap, then gave it a "starter hit" (about 1/2 the pressure), then moved it to the thicker part of the screwdriver's shaft, hit again to spread it out more, then flattened all the way to the washer with the hammer. I did have a Micro-fiber towel under the back to avoid scratches on the armor (over the anvil). I would suggest doing this part of the install prior to installing the chest piece...lookee here...tight gap! Haha. One side done...repeated on the other side - installed. Will post a pic of the minimal gap...think I'll be good for Centurion...it is about 1/8' to under 1/8" using this install. Another thing about Joseph's rivets...before I go the install right...I messed one up...he had some spares (2) in the pack...so, grateful for his insight to include a couple of "whoops" rivets. Highly recommend the rivet set from him. d Anyway... So I have completed the thighs, the belt, the shoulder straps...I plasti-dipped my helmet, just need to do some touch up and lens / frown mesh install and I am, basically done, short the Thigh Ammo belt (VERY mad over that)...I'll get one asap. Sorry for the delay posting. I have several more pictures and will show all the remaining build soon as I get the time. I was working to get the armor done, so I have neglected my thread a little... Happy Monday everyone!

That's a great idea.<br><br> Just a "warning"...be sure on the thigh ammo pack not to trim anything no matter what you see on any tutorials...I saw what it was "supposed to be" length wise...trimmed it...now it is too short. Stinks. Have to order another one...and that is going to delay my finishing.

P.S. I don;t know if you noticed or not, but the Mic tips area is VERY thin. So I used 2 small "discs" in the back to put the nut / washer on. Mine is actually so thin, I don't know if I can use the "Hovi Mic tip speakers" I wanted to get.

Looking great!!! On the Mic tips, I trimmed a little off the "thimble" length, leaving about 1/8" (to hold it in), then I put a small amount of e-6000 on 4 sides, slid it in, let the glue cure, then plucked off the excess with a pair of tweezers. Easy Peazy.

You can consider that DONE!!! Love it! Thanks Cricket!

P.S. I am thinking the velcro is the way to go on the shins...while I know the elastic / hooks are accurate, it is a challenge getting them off, and I don;t want to be flexing the shins more than needed.

Hahaha...working hard to get there Chris. I will have to pack up my mid-section and straps and tools and will work on it in my Hotel Thursday Night...then should have it done Friday Night / Saturday a.m. Talk about cutting it close! Haha!

So, after test-fitting (with some help from my pal Benton), I decided I need to trim the sides of my mid-section / posterior. I evenly distributed the trim making sure I did the exact trim on both sides to insure I had a level / even fit when attaching the abs. It should be noted that I did all my trimming from the Kidney / Posterior, rather than doing any trimming on the front. Used my little "seam marker" to insure the exact trim on both sides (that thing has been worth every penny!! Highly suggest you get one!!!). Then I used my tin snips and cut right to the outside of the line, cleaned / leveled the edges. After cutting the kidney, I did a last inute test fit before cutting the posterior to insure it looked how I wanted it... liked how everything looks...so finished the posterior trim. Then, Double checked my alignment . centering of both pieces...then installed the 3 brackets top and bottom. Installed the kidney with the elastic, then a little trick I did, installed all 3 posterior brackets, with the left screw only lightly tightened, turned them up, then simply "rotated" the posterior brackets (right to left) and they went right in. I carefully installed the 3 remaining screws then tightened the left side to the lock nut catch(do NOT over-tighten). Installed (have to re-do with the support brackets...) So, I did my marks for all the holes. I trimmed off about 2.5 - 3 cm and rounded off the cod. Then found the center, and measured up 2 cm (20 mm) and marked it for the 5/32" hole to be drilled. Then, found the center of the posterior...and measured up 15mm from the edge, then 35 mm...and made my marks. Again for 2 5/32" holes. I made certain it was centered...this pic looks off... LEFT SIDE OF AB / if in armor... Then, measured the Ab & kidney...10mm from the "seam" and from the top, down 20mm - 80mm - 140mm (this gave me an "even spacing" on the Kidney...then duplicated the measurements on the other side. Before I drill these, I will use a level to insure the are exact. RIGHT SIDE OF THE AB / if in the ARMOR On the right side at the top, I measured in 20mm from the Kidney Side, the down 20mm from the top.I drilled the 5/32" hole, then "counter sunk" the outside of the hole a bit. I then installed a male Tandy Line 24 snap in this hole, with the male part facing the body / interior of the armor... I'll post more pics of this later, forgot to take a couple. Anyway, I'll be drilling / installing mid-section sides to kidney, installing posterior snaps and cod rivet / male snap...installing ab to chest and finishing snap on right side. Gluing Ab plates to the ab...some trim work, shoulders and final attaching/ fitting of completed arm pieces. Then have to install my hard - hat liner, lenses, and do some helmet clean up...and...then...Final Thigh fit and assembly. Then this thing is done!!! Almost at the finish line! Have a commitment to my fellow Garrison Members, and I aims to keeps it!!!!!!!! Thanks all! Jon

Also...have done some work since last post...time to get some of it in here. I did my final test fit on the shins. Then I assembled the front with an inner strip, then the cover strip on the front. I won;t bore everyone with "glue and clamp" pics. Paying attention to the fact that the "overlap / cover strip" piece of the back of the shins faces inward (cover strip goes on the "outer" side, I found my center, then trimmed it first. Then, like the biceps, I just used that cut line to mark the other side's cut line. I then applied the cover strip, making sure to sand both gluing points, spreading the E-6000 with a craft stick, the clamp / magnet / let cure for 24 hours. As an fyi, I did the entire shins with E-6000. Again, I figured there are enough pictures of clamps and magnets...but...I clamped and magneted everything accordingly. Always sand these parts to insure a good adhesion: Once the cover strip was cured, I grabbed my "elastic / bra hook connectors" that I made in an earlier post, I measured the inside length, then placed them at 1 1/2" from the ends, then the middle one right on the center. I made sure the "folded part" (see pic) with the bra hook was not glued (need this to stretch / give some". to be sure, I put some craft sticks under that part to keep it away from any glue. I sanded the area where these are glued, then used magnets to secure while curing. When cured, I'll carefully "push in" the side the needs the holes drilled, mark where the holes need to be drilled, then drill a 1/8" hole at the mark, and boom, shins will be done! I am also going to carefully glue a 1/8 washer over the hole, to support the armor at these "attaching holes". A recurring theme, I intend to troop and help my Garrison a lot...so I am not only building for accuracy, but for comfort and durability as well. On to the Mid-section posts...