count chocula

I've been trying for months to get a reliable wireless setup going but to be honest I'm considering going wired. I have one of the units from this thread (and have tried several other wireless setups, some pretty costly), and when it works it works well, but the attachment from my romFX to the wireless receiver in my chest is VERY touchy. I have to fiddle with it (rotating the cable input to the receiver/removing and re-inserting it) for 10 min before every troop to get it working, then try to tape it down in that position. I may just have a shoddy unit. I should probably just find a spot that works and glue them together... Also, it seems like my mouth needs to be as close as possible to the mic to get any output. Sometimes the only way I can get audio is if I actually put it partially in my mouth. This is with the mic volume all the way up. Not sure what I'm doing wrong. I may just need to try fiddling with the settings more. I really don't want to go wired, but I hate worrying about whether I will have a mic or not on troops. Oh, and for anyone getting hum from wireless interference, try wrapping the receiver in aluminum foil. It worked for me.

Nicely done!

The screws are present on the bottom right box in the diagram, they are just dark black and tough to make out. I probably should've made them stand out more... And looking at Tony's build, you are correct about the top left box, I should've included screws around the corners there as well. I can send Joseph an updated version to correct this

Looking good fellow MTK guy! Just an fyi, I think that male snap on the upper right side of your kidney piece is supposed to be on the upper right of the ab plate (for centurion). Oh, and you might want to post pictures using direct-embedding links from an external photo-storing website, e.g. photobucket or imgur. This will fix the data/size limitation you're having.

Nice! What kind of blasters are those? Must be old republic era

I have Adobe illustrator (also vector-based) and would be happy to help. PM sent

Sweet blaster and helmet, man! Now you need some armor to go with it

Thanks, Andrew!

Thanks, Markus

Thanks, Christian! We all put so much work into these builds, it's nice to finally see the finished product (although I suppose one's armor is never really finished). I can finally tidy up the garage a bit and put all those random snaps and things away lol

Awesome! Thanks Tony and Sly for taking the time to review.

I did, actually. Here's what they sent me when I asked for a 12mm hypotenuse Porro-Abbe: ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Thank you very much for your inquiry. We have Porro-Abbe prism, 14mm hypotenuse, also we can custom make Porro-Abbe prism, 12mm hypotenuse. Please let me know what qty. are you looking for? Material BK7 or Fused Silica, coating? Best Regards, Tom Zhang Manager Optocity 8900 Columbine Dr. Raleigh, NC 27613 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ I asked for a quote for the 14mm hypotenuse Porro-Abbe prisms they had in stock (I figured it would cost more to have them make 12mm prisms). They quoted $45 per prism.

I've searched extensively for these prisms. They are sometimes called Porro-Abbe prisms. They seem to be nearly impossible to find. Several websites formerly sold these (e.g. edmundoptics), but have recently discontinued them. Some Russian company still has them on their inventory, but they haven't responded to my emails... I even went so far as to design a 3-d model of the prism that is needed for this scope (a "12mm hypotenuse Porro-Abbe prism"). I had them printed in an "optically-clear" resin by a 3-d printing company for only 10 bucks, but even after lots of polishing, I'm not sure they are really clear enough to work properly. They fit very well into the scope I bought from Brian, but the image seen through them is a bit blurry. Also, the prisms used in the moisin nagant scopes must have had mirror coatings on the hypotenuse (maybe on other surfaces, too). I've not been able to find a good way to coat a single surface of a resin prism. If anyone wants a copy of the stl file you are welcome to it. Here's a picture of the 3-d printed clear resin prisms before polishing. I really wanted this to work, but this is going to take a lot more effort, I think. If anyone finds a good solution, I will take two, please.

Thanks, Joseph. I've added this pic to the original post, now: Also added in the wrist side of the forearms, which I forgot about initially. The thigh tops don't bother me. I can lower them a bit or remove the return edge though, if needed for accuracy.

Please consider the following build for Centurion status. Thanks for taking the time to review! Name: Sean Barber Forum Name: Count Chocula Garrison: Star Garrison [sTX squad] Height: 5' 9" Weight: 165lbs 501st profile: http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=21742 EIB app: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38662-tk77019-requesting-anh-stunt-eib-status-mtk-635/ Eye color: blue Hair: brownish Zodiac: Scorpio Hobbies: Long walks on the gold beaches of Corellia Armor: MTK Helmet: RT-Mod Boots: Imperial Boots Canvas Belt: TrooperBay Handguards: TrooperBay Neck Seal: Darman Holster: Darman Electronics: none Blaster: doopydoos pipe custom (thread) Front - Arms at side Back - Arms at side Left - Arm raised Right - Arm raised Ab-kidney Attachment - Left Ab-kidney Attachment - Right Ab Detail Ab Button Kidney Notch Hand Plates Shoulder Bridge Back Shoulder Bridge Front Back/Chest Connection Thigh Pack Attachment - Right Thigh Pack Attachment - Left Sniper Plate - Right Sniper Plate - Left Drop Box Back Cod-Butt Attachment Helmet: Now with hand-painted decals Helmet - Front Helmet - Left Helmet - Right Helmet - Back Hovi Tip Detail Lens Color S-trim Blaster Right Blaster Left D-ring Neck Seal TD Holster Attachment Wrist Side of Forearms Interior Strapping Boots Action Pic EIB adjustments I shaved most of the return edge from the shoulder bells and tightened the straps between the shoulders and shoulder bridge to try and bring the bells in towards the chest. I also lowered the biceps as much as I could and let the forearms out a tiny bit. My arms are unnaturally long, so there are still a few gaps here and there. I also moved the drop boxes more towards the edge of the plastic belt and glued them in place

Looking good! Tino has a great t-track tutorial in this thread. It might be tough to paint the joints (after filling) while leaving the rest of the original finish in place, as whichever paint you use may not match the original finish well. If it were me, I would just try masking off the original finish and painting the joints with wrinkle paint. Let it dry and see how it looks. if you dont like it you can always sand the whole thing down and repaint it all. Best of luck

Thanks, Jon. It looks like you're gearing up for a nice sterling parts build yourself!

Awesome. Thanks! I'll work on these things before I submit for centurion.

Added boot pics, too

I've added in the code/schematics for posterity (page 3). This thing is fun to troop with! A bit heavy though. I'm really wanting to do make some BFGs in the near future (T-21? RT-97c?) I think I may have to go sandy/HWT at some point. Cheers

Here's the D-ring. Also added to the original post. Thanks.

Thanks, Joseph. Good idea on the thigh tops.

Name: Sean Barber Forum Name: Count Chocula Garrison: Star Garrison [sTX squad] Height: 5' 9" Weight: 165lbs 501st profile: http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=21742 Armor: MTK Helmet: RT-Mod Boots: Imperial Boots Canvas Belt: TrooperBay Handguards: TrooperBay Neck Seal: Darman Holster: Darman Electronics: none Blaster: doopydoos pipe custom (thread) Front - arms at Side Back - arms at Side Left - arms raised Right - arms raised Right Side Detail - arms raised Left Side Detail - arms raised Abdomen Detail Action Shot Cod-Butt Attachment Interior Strapping Helmet - Front Helmet - Left side Helmet - Right side Helmet - Back Hovi Tip Detail Lens Color Blaster - Left Blaster - Right Blaster - D-ring Neck Seal Thermal Detonator - Front Thermal Detonator - Back Holster Attachment Boots

TK-77019 requesting 501st access, sir! http://www.501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=21742

Are those two different monoculars? The tasco at the top of your picture looks like the one I used. The side with the smaller lens should unscrew, giving you access to pull out the prism. If this doesn't work, I would just cut into the scope with a dremel wheel near the larger lens side (the prism should be far away from the large lens), and then just keep cutting towards the smaller lens side until you can see/remove the prism housing.