TKSnake

I've never used an Aker but swear by my Pyle Pro. Sent from my SM-T530NU using Tapatalk

Sorry I haven't had time to put up a wiring diagram. Been busy this weekend doing contract work, and I have to fly out on a business trip tomorrow. I'll see what I can do while I'm on the road :-)

The Cliff's Notes version is as follows: I'm using a Pyle Pro instead of Hovi mcs, so in my bucket I only have two sets of fans (a pair of small fans behind the hovi tips and a pair of blowers in my forehead), the MK136 hearing assist, and a wireless mic. The former two both run from a single Antec LifeBar 3 USB power bank which has two 5v outputs at 1A and 2A. I use the former for the MK136 and the latter for the fans. On initial install of the MK136, I got a lot of EM noise from the fans through the MK136. After thinking about how to create a low-pass filter, I used off-the-shelf tech and grabbed a US VDSL filter, just to experiment with, since I know that these simple devices filter noise out above a certain frequency in order to keep analog phone conversations and VDSL DMTs from interfering with each other. Sure enough, it worked. So I unboxed the filter, shrink wrapped it, and installed it in-line between the LifeBar and the MK136. Of course, then I ended up also having to deal with all the RF noise on the MK136 from the wireless mic, which involved a lot of copper tape

Edit: reread your post. Apologies that you can't find a DSL filter in the UK since Europe mostly uses Annex B. I'm not sure if ADSL filters would do the trick as ADSL uses a slightly different frequency spectrum, and a related filter might not filter all the EM noise made by the fans. Really, my discovery was purely experimental serendipity. I've done it on my system referred to in the OP, but I did have the advantage of the DSL filter. But the MK136 and both sets of fans run off the same 5V USB back in my bucket.

I completely understand both sides of he argument and take no umbrage

This topic recently came up (again) on the Anovos Kit Building Group on FB. My take on the pauldron has always been this: Personally, I feel that CRLs are needed so that costumes don't turn into a hodge podge of thrown-together accessories (of which I may be slightly guilty of sometimes, with things like a pauldron or comlink on my non-Hero non-sandy TK). That being said, CRLs are based on static movie references that get retconned constantly, even with new canon. I'll go without a pauldron for LFL or canon troops, but otherwise I'm fine with making my own decisions within the boundaries of my garrison.

I never had an issue with the headphone cables themselves, but I did have a terrible issue with the leads from the HA mics picking up a ton of RF noise from the wireless mic, hence the copper tape on the bracket that goes between those cables and the wireless mic.

Have you tried a low-pass filter? It worked for me between my fans and hearing assist module. https://obsidiustk.blogspot.com/2016/11/upgrade-bring-noise-hearing-assist-fan.html

Excellent.

Just finished my initial build. So far, so good I had two thoughts: Use one of the analogue pins for a dial to dynamically adjust mic or line in gain, in case the mic is picking up too much echo or background noise. This can be a problem with the iComm. Use one of the digital pins to start or stop the background loop. Maybe something that can be put into the next sketch? Just elect new pins like what the config has for the PTT pin.

The only way I was able to eliminate the RF interference from the wireless mic was to use a lot of copper tape. https://obsidiustk.blogspot.com/2017/01/upgrade-coppertop-em-noise-shielding-vs.html

It could be worse. A lot worse :-P I did the same to both thighs and patched. It took a while but the results were good. https://obsidiustk.blogspot.com/2016/05/the-thigh-re-re-master-ctrl-z-ctrl-z.html Mind you, I got basic approval with short this although the GML recommended a bring the thighs up.

I was redoing my ab/ kidney attachment to get ready for EIB & Centurion approval, and I was wondering: is there anything against fastening the split rivets without strapping, and just gluing a swath of elastic to both plates using E6000 to hold them together on the left side? I'd really not like to redo the split rivets any time I might need to replace the linkage, but at the same time it's going to be semi-permanent and I don't need snap plates or Velcro either. In addition, the elastic could also help to protect my ribs and undersuit from the split rivets. I'm getting my armor ready for a lot of end-of-month trooping and could really use expert advice.

DoopyDoos does sell a full E-11 resin kit, not just conversion kits. Edit: Pyrates beat me to the punch :-)

Late to the party as well, although I've known for a while you're now EIB, but wanted to congratulate you here all the same Also, I'm taking notes Now with a Kittell belt and soon with the latex hand guards!

TK-76253 reporting for duty and requesting 501st access: http://501st.com/members/displaymemberdetails.php?userID=21150

Hmmm... looking at his profile, he hasn't been active on the forums since Sep 02 2015. Not optimistic about the prospects of getting updates or files

Noticed that the scaled magazine wasn't available on Shapeways. Another user was telling me that the files were available for download. Is this true, so that I could perhaps have somebody local print the parts for me on the cheap? Thanks.

Ha, exactly I wasn't even expecting my armor until the end of this month, and I got it two weeks ago. Of course, only having nights to work on it, putting it together is another matter entirely; needless to say my soft goods will arrive in more than enough time either way