SlyFox740

Resurrecting the subject of the Crystal Patrol Duty pack, I still feel strongly that it should be an optional accessory for the R1 TK CRL. I realize MEPD is getting this pack too as it is mainly featured on Jedha which is a sandy planet, But in fact the first trooper seen wearing the pack in the movie is actually at The Ring of Kafrene which is not a sandy place at all! It is a trading outpost so it would make perfect sense that stromtroopers deployed there would be issued these packs to confiscate any crystals attempted to be illegally traded or sold on the market. More importantly the only trooper in this scene can actually be heard saying "TK-62" Identifying himself using the standard stormtrooper designation TK prefix ON SCREEN and as you can see when you turn on the subtitles this character's official name in the script is "Stormtrooper 1", the first stormtrooper in the movie which also happens to take place prior to A New Hope. We are the First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment. On top of all this MEPD is already getting the "Sandtrooper Type 4 Fieldpack" from Rogue One to add their other Sandtrooper, & HWT Packs. FISD should also get at least one pack that's actually seen on screen in a movie and not based from a video game! After all the real leg work and research for the pack was done here on whitearmor to begin with. This is the 501st legion, and WE are the First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment, we pride ourselves on being one of the biggest and most accurate detachments, so this needs to be corrected in my mind. Sure the "Sandtroopers" on Jedha were issued them, but clearly so are standard Stormtroopers in other places too. That's how it is in the movie, and this is supported in the official visual guide as well as other official media too, the evidence is all there . Disney/Lucasfilm is clearly presenting this character to the public as a Standard Stormtrooper and so far the 501st is not doing a very good job maintaining that continuity by calling it a Sandtrooper.

Yes the Pauldron is Orange on the Tatooine Map in Battlefront II, also the helmet details are painted like ANH Sandtrooper such as No Black Lines inside the Tears or Trapezoids, and ANH Grey Frown unlike the rest of the helmets in the game with ROTJ Black Frowns. Also on Tatooine the HWT has a Sandtrooper diamond knee plate, and Sandtrooper Ab details as well. Other than that the Battlefront II Heavy Weapons Trooper appears to be a very close copy of the ANH SE Sandtrooper with the addition of an MP40 pouch. The packs are also slightly different as well but basically the same thing, the ANH SE Sandtrooper pack has a small "top box" with a secondary hose attached to it where as the Battlefront II Heavy Weapons Trooper pack does not. With these two costumes basically being the same, it might be worth considering combining them into one CRL With the Tatooine version of the Battlefront II HWT being a hybrid of ANH Sandtrooper / ANH SE Sandtrooper / ROTJ Stormtrooper I think it would be quite acceptable to allow any ANH derived armor for basic approval.

I have finally collected all the correct found parts required to begin building my Rogue One E-11 Blaster. The S&T Sterling was actually the last part I acquired for this build because I wanted to buy it during a Boxing Day sale and save some money just like I did for my ANH Airsoft Conversion with Real Parts. Each found part pictured below is the correct variation with accurate details as seen on the E-11 Blasters in Rogue One. - S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. - 1943 Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co. M38 Telescope with correct wide front foot. - Hengstler Counter with correct Small Eagle logo variant complete with accurate plastic socket cover to replace the vintage metal one. - Power Cylinders are a direct recast from a Shepperton Design Studios E-11 blaster exactly like the prop makers used in Rogue One. - The T-Track I decided to go with is actually made of real rubber and has an accurate profile shape with the correct thickness. - Element M300A Mini Scout Light with correct button guard variant. - Flashlight Rail is the correct found part with accurate details such as sharp corners and a curved bottom surface in order to sit flush against the airsoft gun. Here's a photo of an actual screen used prop from the Rogue One Visual Guide. And here's a screen shot from the other side of the Rogue One E-11. Stay Tuned, the Build process will begin soon...

I honestly don't think we have enough definitive evidence to determine the exact shape of the baton for certain, either way square or round. We just don't have a clear closeup, maybe the CRL actually needs to be more vague on the baton as we don't really know that much about it other than what we can make out.

Thank you for the compliment Chris! Yes I agree the ejection port/muzzle flash guards are off too, like pretty much everything else on the airsoft gun. The bayonet lug is of as well which I will also be correcting. I guess it's all part of the fun/challenge of converting one of these airsoft guns to an ANH E-11. They would make a much easier base for a Rogue One E-11 blaster build considering that's what was used on screen, and that's exactly what I'm doing with the other Airsoft Sterling that I bought; SlyFox's R1 Airsoft Conversion with Real Parts

Episode III - Revenge of the Sights, & Stock Sorry for the delay in this build thread, but after finally repairing all the broken Photobucket links in my posts I can now finally continue where I left off. The next inaccuracies I will correct will be the front sight, rear sight, and folding stock. As you can see a real Sterling (Top) has knurling on the front sight guard, where the Airsoft replica(Bottom) does not. I removed the 4 tack welds holding the front sight guard with a precision dremel tool, then I used a punch to recreate the staggered knurling pattern. After knurling the front sight guard I tack welded it back onto the airsoft gun. Here are some Before & After comparison photos of the airsoft modification. Before (Top), After (Bottom). Notice I also filed the round opening on the front sight guard to be a little bit deeper like the real thing. Here are some comparison photos of a real Sterling (Top) and my Airsoft modification (Bottom). I also filed the front sight pin a little bit to make it more accurate to the real thing. A real Sterling rear sight guard has knurling as well, where the Airsoft replica does not. The pivot pin on the Airsoft is also different than a real Sterling. Using this needle file set I was able to add the serrations on the rear sight guard. Here are some Before & After comparison photos of the Rear Sight Guard modification. I also changed out the pivot pin for something that looks a bit more like the real thing. Here you can see the Airsoft rear sight guard has a mushroom head shape, this is inaccurate. I used a file to round it off like the real thing as well as adding the serrations. Here is a comparison photo of a real Sterling (Left) and my Airsoft modification (Right). A real Sterling folding stock is different than the Airsoft folding stock in a number of ways. First of all the shape of the bends arch outwards on a real Sterling, and they arch inwards on the Airsoft gun. There is a also a steel block present at the base of the "Y" on a real Sterling, but it is absent on the Airsoft gun. There are some other small differences which I will discuss and correct as well. Here are some comparison photos of a real Sterling folding stock and the Airsoft folding stock. I started with a 1/2" block of steel with a 7/16" diameter hole in it, I used a center punch to mark the center of two opposite sides. Then I drilled a center hole through both sides. I also had to shape the end of the support bar on the folding stock to match the tip of the 7/16" drill bit I used. I did this for two reasons; 1. To keep as much steel around the pivot pin as possible for strength, 2. To allow me to chamfer the edges and corners of the block without penetrating through the thin walls of the steel block. I chamfered the edges and corners of the block using a lathe, and then used sandpaper to smooth it out after. I also drilled a small dimple in the top of the steel block to make it look more accurate. The Airsoft folding stock is made of thinner steel than a real Sterling so it's rather easy to work with. I used a rubber mallet and the rounded edge of an anvil to correct the shape of the Airsoft folding stock. The bends now arch outwards correctly like a real Sterling, not inwards. Here are some Before & After comparison photos of my modified Airsoft folding stock. Here are some comparison photos of a real Sterling folding stock with my modified Airsoft folding stock. A real Sterling buttstock is slightly different than the Airsoft replica in a few ways. The pins have dimples on the ends and the corners of the folded steel buttstock are rounded, the Airsoft gun does not have dimples on the ends of the pin and the corners of the buttstock are pointed. As you can see here I drilled out dimples in the center of the pin on both sides and filed down the corners of the buttstock so that it's rounded off instead of pointed. Here's a Before & After comparison photo. Before (Top), After (Bottom) And here's a comparison photo of a real Sterling (Top) with my Airsoft modification (Bottom) A real Sterling folding stock also has dimples on the ends of the support bar pivot pin where as the Airsoft gun does not. Here is a Before & After comparison photo of the Airsoft modification. Before (Top), After (Bottom) Here is a comparison photo of a real Sterling (Top) with my Airsoft modification (Bottom). A real Sterling folding stock (Top) is mounted with carriage bolts, where the Airsoft folding stock (Bottom) is mounted with slotted dome head screws. Here's what the folding stock mounting bolt looks like when removed from the airsoft gun. To replace the slotted dome head screws I used a custom combination of Chicago screws, Small washers, and a threaded rod. This screw also holds the grip in place as you know from my earlier grip modification chapter. For this reason I needed a fairly tough small threaded rod so I modified a steel machine screw by cutting the head off and filing it down smooth. Here are the other parts I used to create the custom mounting bolt for the folding stock. Chicago Screws, Washers, Modified screw for threaded rod. Here they are assembled in the same way it would be when they're on the blaster. As you can see, the Chicago Screw dome heads fit perfectly inside the recesses on the Airsoft Folding Stock. Here are some Before & After photos of the Folding Stock Mounting Bolt modification. Before (Top), After (Bottom). Here are some comparison photos of a real Sterling (Top) with my Airsoft modification (Bottom). A real Sterling folding stock has square locking studs where the Airsoft gun has round locking studs. Using a scriber I was able to carve the correct shape into the folding stock and fill in the incorrect one with bondo. Here is a Before & After photo. Before modification (Top) After modification (Bottom) Here is a comparison photo of a real Sterling and my Airsoft modification. I hope you enjoyed this chapter of my blaster build, please don't hesitate to leave any comments or critiques. Stay Tuned for the next episode, To Be Continued...

Sorry to bother, I will stop posting so much, I didn't mean to test your patience. Just confirming he is correct about the copy, always my pleasure to help where I can. Peace. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes and if you read the CRL requirements level 3 says "Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M38" Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Oh you're very welcome. It's my pleasure! I still feel the Crystal Patrol Duty TK Pack should be included as an optional accessory in this CRL and kept as part of our detachment as all the research and leg work was done here at the FISD; https://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/39073-celebration-europe-2016-rogue-one-stormtrooper-back-pack-build/. I'd much rather see the backpack as an optional accessory in this CRL than a required costume component on a "Jedha Trooper" CRL which is a non-existent character title only coined on the packaging of one action figure! First of all the backpack is seen at the Kafrene Trading Outpost in one of the opening scenes of the movie before we even see the planet Jedha! This makes sense as the Empire would be looking to confiscate any kyber crystals being illegally sold on the market at the nearby trading outpost in order to be sent to Edau and refined into fuel for their super weapon. All of this coincides with the official Rogue One Visual Guide from Disney/Lucasfilm as well which I believe is much more of an "official" reference than a single action figure that says "Jedha Trooper" on the packaging. And as I stated before the visual guide clearly states in black and white that the backpack is issued to "standard stormtroopers" assigned to "crystal patrol duty" and that the Pauldron "denotes rank or mission specialization". But I digress, if the backpack must be part of another detachment, then MEPD is due for a major name change somehow related to "Mission Specialists" as all the new costumes they will be getting are never seen anywhere near Tatooine let alone Mos Eisley! Plus I highly doubt that the Empire would permanently dedicate an entire detachment of the 501st legion to one single remote location such as the Mos Eisley space port, would they really want to establish an actual police dept. in such a "wretched hive of scum and villainy"? It's possible I guess but I think a "Mission Specialists" type name would be much more fitting for Sandtroopers ready for deployment onto any possible sand planet they may be assigned to, like the battle of Jakku or Jedha. Not JUST Tatooine! This type of name would make more sense when adding HWT and other costumes to the detachment. Something like S.E.S.D.(Sand Environment Specialist Detachment) might work well too as it could be argued all of their costumes will be "weathered" to some degree, though as far as the Crystal Patrol Backpack goes it has been clearly seen on clean troopers too so there is still my argument that it belongs here. As it's clearly NOT a Sandtrooper pack meant for sand environments, it is however a pack designed for a "specific mission" so it would fit into a detachment of that description but not one designated for Sandtroopers specifically. Same goes for the HWT, it could fit into a "Mission Specialist" type detachment but not a "Sand Environment" type detachment. At the end of the day, we know all Backpacks are designed for a specific type of mission or environment. And according to Lucasfim/Disney the Shoulder Pauldron "denotes rank or mission specialization". So I think something to do with "Mission Specialist" would be the most appropriate in this situation.

Can you take a higher quality image of this DLT-19 Blaster? This one is not very high resolution. Ok, so I have photoshopped the Baton onto a white background. As you can see from what we can tell in the movie the baton holster appears to have a simple flap design making the holster slightly wider at the top, so that's what I have shown in the CRL image. It shall be on the wearer's left side, and I believe it should be made of either black canvas or black leather similar to the Death Trooper accessory pouches, but that's just my opinion. Ok Paul here's the CRL images for the Baton and the DLT-19 Heavy Blaster Rifle, let me know if this is okay with the holster on the TK belt included in the image like this. Also the DLT-19 image is not very high resolution at all but I did the best I could with what I have, If I could get a higher resolution version photo of the blaster that would be great! https://imgur.com/IfI4rpz https://imgur.com/u6Yf8Lw

Okay give me a bit and I will work on that for you.

Okay Paul I think this should be okay for the Rogue One E-11 CRL image, let me know if there's anything else you'd like me to fix. I can email you the fullsize image or you can download it in full resolution from my photo gallery here: https://imgur.com/WvQ0NQ4

Oh it looks like you fixed the "knit" part of the word, but the word "Rib" is still spelled incorrectly. Also I'm working on photoshopping the E-11 images and combining them into one for you as we speak.

Under Suit Level 2 has a typo on the word "rib-knit" I think my Level 3 suggestion should be submitted; "Stitching shall be present between the ribs of the rib-knit fabric." Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey Paul how do these look? I can clean them up more in Photoshop if need be. Also I can combine them into one image. There's also this detailed shot of all the different components if you think it can be used. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

White Background. Here's a detailed shot of all the different components Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I have some suggestions to put forward for the Under Suit. Under Suit L1 - Black non-textured material, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs. L2 - Black rib-knit fabric, either one-piece or two-piece construction with no visible zippers or logos/designs. - At minimum there is rib-knit fabric present in all exposed areas between armor pieces. L3 - Stitching shall be present between the ribs on the rib-knit fabric.

If possible, please try to get clear high resolution photos of both sides of the blaster on a white background. It will be Greatly Appreciated!

Oh you definitely did, I believe your Preatorian Blasters R1 E-11 should be Level 3 Approved right out of the box. That's why I want to use it for the CRL Photos if possible, it's basically the exact same thing most of the suit actors held in their hands during production. Only a few of the props meant for close ups were based on an actual airsoft gun. I am building an R1 E-11 blaster with all real parts, it will be VERY HEAVY!

Okay Paul I think we're getting close to being ready to update the E-11 optional accessory requirement listing, appropriate photographs will follow soon. L1 -Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. -A small flashlight shall be mounted on the right side of the blaster centered over the T-Tracks. L2 -Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. (Folding Stock does not need to function) -D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. -Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 model is preferred. -Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Eagle logo is preferred. -Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. -6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. -Flashlight shall be a real or replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. L3 -Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope, 1942 model is not allowed. -Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with Small eagle logo. Large eagle logo is not allowed. -Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed.

That's definitely Level 3 worthy Nathan!, it even has the correct plastic socket cover. You can clearly tell because of the mold injection points. I didn't bother mentioning the plastic socket cover in the CRL. They don't even come with a window for the eagle logo, it has to be modified to have the window cut out. This is all explained in my Blaster Reference Thread

L1 -Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. -A small flashlight shall be mounted on the right side of the blaster centered over the T-Tracks. L2 -Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. (Folding Stock does not need to function) -D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. -Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 model is preferred. -Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Eagle logo is preferred. -Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. -6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. -Flashlight shall be a real or replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. L3 -Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope, 1942 is not allowed. -Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with Small eagle logo. Large eagle logo is not allowed. -Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed.

Thank you There are several variations of Hengstler Counters but the only version seen in Rogue One is the Small eagle logo. So It should be specific for Level 3 approval. Please don't hesitate to let me know if anyone has any other ideas to contribute.

No you're right it doesn't I was just trying to be thorough. 1943 has a wide front foot, 1942 has narrow front foot. L1 -Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. -A small flashlight shall be mounted on the right side of the blaster centered over the T-Tracks. L2 -Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. (Folding Stock does not need to function) -D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. -Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 model is preferred. -Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Small eagle logo is preferred. -Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. -6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. -Flashlight shall be a real or replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. L3 -Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope, 1942 is not allowed. -Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with Small eagle logo. Medium or Large eagle logo is not allowed. -Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed.

Okay I updated the list to reflect the changes. Although some of the listings you mentioned are actually worded differently from level 2 to 3, namely the difference between "Is Preferred" and "Shall Be" but I have elaborated further on these points now. I've left the modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster because if someone can add a resin flashlight to a DoopyDo's for basic approval, then it's no different than someone adding a dollar store flashlight to a toy blaster for basic approval. But as you can see the requirements for Level 2 and Level 3 become more and more stringent. I don't think any level should require any actual real parts as many of the props on screen were resin or rubber cast, but there were also props made with real parts if someone wishes to go all the way and use real found parts. L1 -Based on a real or replica Sterling Airsoft Gun, Sterling Sub-Machine Gun, scratch-built, or a modified commercial toy Stormtrooper blaster. -A small flashlight shall be mounted on the right side of the blaster over the T-Tracks. L2 -Blaster shall be based on a real or replica S&T Sterling L2A1 AEG Airsoft Gun. (Folding Stock does not need to function) -D-Ring shall be present on the rear end cap. -Scope shall be a real or replica M.H.R. (Minneapolis Honeywell Regulator Co.) M38 Telescope. 1943 version with wide front foot is preferred. -Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter. Small eagle logo is preferred. -Power Cylinders shall be mounted on top of the magazine well. R1 style power cylinders are preferred over ANH style. -6 rows of T-Tracks cover the Sterling receiver holes except for the lower left row with the bayonet lug. -A flashlight shall be mounted to the right side of the blaster centered over the T-tracks. Preferred flashlight is a real or a replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light. L3 -Scope shall be a real or replica 1943 M.H.R. Co. M38 Telescope with Wide front foot. Narrow front foot is not allowed. -Counter shall be a real or replica Hengstler 400 Series counter with Small eagle logo. Medium or Large eagle logo is not allowed. -Power Cylinders shall be R1 style, ANH style is not allowed. -A correct flashlight shall be mounted to the right side of the blaster centered over the T-tracks. Flashlight shall be a real or replica Element M300A Mini Scout Light.