Haso

I believe it was the great man Moff Tarkin who said, and I quote "You're taking an awful risk Pyrates, this had better work"

Congrats on getting your TK number mate! Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0251 using Tapatalk

*a strap, not 'as trap' Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0251 using Tapatalk

Great stuff mate. You're also almost at 1000 posts! Do you mean you are going to put as trap from shoulder bell to bicep, as is done from bicep to forearm? I thought it only required the strap that is held by the bicep hook? Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0251 using Tapatalk

Looking great, you're off to a flying start. I agree with taking some more out of eyes and teeth. You just seem to have a bit more flashing around eyes that can come out. Same for teeth. But you're spot on with what you're doing and in seeking feedback. Great start! Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0251 using Tapatalk

Lol. Well there's a fair bit of ingenuity throughout this thread so its not far from the truth! Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0251 using Tapatalk

So Aaron being the 501st macgyver we'll be able to recognize you in a line of TK's, with the mullet hanging out from under your bucket Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0251 using Tapatalk

All looking good from what I can see. It does take a while doing inner and outer cover strips. Took me a good week to do arms and legs. Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0251 using Tapatalk

Only a Jedi has reflexes that quick! Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0251 using Tapatalk

Yeah mate. Do yourself a favour and search for tk1636 on YouTube. Great vids.

Ok all, I'm going to post up a big update on shin sniper plate, arms, torso strapping and hand plates, so here goes... Straight up, progress on my sniper plate. I've glued the front, and inner side, but still to do the outer. I hadn't anticipated the outer side sitting as high over the shin ridge as it does, and I'll need to pull it down in order to fix it as shown in one of the photos. I glued the front on first and waited a good 24 hours before glueing the inner side. I've since been away and so both of these have had about a week to fully cure, which is good because the last side is going to be interesting...I'll clean up the area around the glued sections at a later time. Arms & shoulder bells Have finished assembling the cover strips (both inner and outer) and these all seem to fit pretty good. I've taken out all return edges for both the wrist and elbow ends of the forearms but have still to decide on how I'll trim the top of the forearms to get a good taper across the two halves of the armour. Will come back to that though. I'm going to attach the black strapping to these this week; well that's the plan. To do this, I'll study TK 1636's video tutorials hard - I'm finding these to be gold to help with my build, as well as Trooperbay's tutorial vids too: Hand guards I got these from Trooperbay, and went for the plain latex handguards that needed to be painted. As they are a clear brownish colour, they need to be painted white and for these I made a concoction of white acrylic, a fabric medium additive (to convert the white acrylic to a fabric paint), and some white PVA wood glue (the last I picked up from a tutorial here on FISD from Sonnenshein, who I was going to buy these from till she stopped making them earlier this year). I really want to get the rough painted, cracked look for these so I wasn't too precious in painting them. I want to keep as much of the flashing that I've put around it as possible: I painted these with a crappy cheap paint brush from a $2 shop, and to be honest I'm not sure how these will hold up long term, I got a feeling these will require pretty constant maintenance if the paint does chip off too quick. We'll wait & see... Torso Strapping I chose to go the screen-accurate brackets and elastic route for this, and received a package in the mail today from mrnostripes on FISD: At this point, I went over to Trooperbay's video tutorial and simply followed that process to get these results (I'd say it took about 1 1/2 hours for a newb like be to do, but it was a pretty straightforward process and not high on the difficulty level. I'd recommend considering this method, at least it minimises the snaps you need to make...) ...of course, I had to stuff up my very last drill hole, and went the wrong way along the armour, lol: Nothing that some abs paste can't fix I guess. I've already glued a piece of scrap abs behind it in readiness for the paste. I'll paint the screws white at a later time. And also.... Found a cool use for the original helmet trim that I replace with a Trooperbay s-trim. Use it to mount the teeth mesh. I simply cut some up and glued it along the bottom of the teeth. The mesh can just be slotted into it, and I then put another small piece near the nose to hold the middle top of the mesh (which is what that blue-tape magnet is gluing on). Works like a charm. And tip - don't ever put blu-tac on plasti-dip, even temporarily - you can't get it all off (unfortunately in my constant search for good fan and mesh mountings, I had blu-tac and velcro in the bucket and that's what's causing the wear and tear on the plasti-dip). I can always go back and touch those areas up, but won't do so till I've finished my tinkering in there. I've also gone the padding route for my bucket, with some velcro attached to the inside of the bucket, it's easy enough to configure it so it's comfortable and sits well. The pads I just ordered off ebay and they're military style, used for paintball helmets etc... Anyway that's a quick rundown of my recent progress, it's all been a bit scattergun lately as I've waited for the torso brackets to arrive, which would kick off the strapping/fitting phase proper. I'll post a little more on my fans (which I've sourced from a local supplier - our local GML) and other bits and pieces over coming days. BTW - my E-11 is a pvc pipe build. Parts on their way from Doopy Doos, I've cut out the pvc pipe, and some other bits (t-tracks, completion kit) to be sourced from FISD. Kris

Hey mate I'm doing an AP build too and had to replace the supplied green lenses too. I went with the dark green ones from trooper bay. They're great as you just cannot see anything from the outside. They are one long thicker piece of plastic then can be mounted in one piece or cut into two. Trooper bay has a video for how to fit them-i followed this (I really need to update my thread with all this, now I'm home again) Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0251 using Tapatalk

Yeah that's how I understand it. I've done 16mm for all arms, front and back. Its never really been officially settled what the actual widths should be, just a range. I've done what is generally considered approximate (16mm arms and 20mm legs). This varies though and should be proportionate to your size, which if i have been paying attention on your thread is what you're doing anyway with your 13mm Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0251 using Tapatalk

...and I'm keeping a close eye on this one too... Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0251 using Tapatalk

Congrats mate. Awesome work! Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0251 using Tapatalk

That's him. Seeing his, the ridges of his shin armour at the sides aren't parallel to the angle of the sniper plate sides, so I'm happy to just try to emulate his - considering he be a centurion! Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0251 using Tapatalk

Repeated reply....arch. just had some connection issues. Forgot to say I've been referring to previous centurion submissions, particularly a guy on FISD, goes by the name The 5thhorseman. Or something like that. Using them as a visual for the sniper plate. Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0251 using Tapatalk

Hey mate I got the plate and inner side secured. Just got to glue the outer side. I'll get some pics and comments up on my thread soon, but I put the outer side in some hot water and twisted it inwards slightly before putting it all on. I also put some scrap abs either side of the cover strip so as to give the plate a bigger area to glue to. Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0251 using Tapatalk

Hey mate I got the plate and inner side secured. Just got to glue the outer side. I'll get some pics and comments up on my thread soon, but I put the outer side in some hot water and twisted it inwards slightly before putting it all on. I also put some scrap abs either side of the cover strip so as to give the plate a bigger area to glue to. Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0251 using Tapatalk

Didn't realise that much of the inner bicep lip was taken out. Mine's assembled but will revisit it. Simple enough to bust out the dremel and sand paper. Great heads up! Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0251 using Tapatalk

Converting the AP ESB Holster to ANH: I've always wanted to convert the holster supplied with my AP kit from the ESB version to the ANH version with the natural tan leather straps. I think it is still acceptable as is for ANH (but don't quote me on that), but really want that natural leather look (Don't we all, lol!). So here's how I did it. This is a pretty straightforward process. This update is pretty pic heavy. Extra equipment for this job: 1) Leather Punch 2) A piece of natural leather 3) Some craft glue suitable for leather (I picked up a length of natural tan leather for $5, and the leather hole punch for about $30, both from Spotlight, and the craft glue from Lincraft, which might mean something to any other Aussie builders. The leather is pretty much enough to do this job with some scrap left over). Straight off the bat, here's the result we're setting out to achieve: We're also referring to this diagram (pic below), more so for the length of the straps attaching the holster to the belt. They are 3/4" by 4" wide. It's really only that 4" length we need to make sure we have with our piece of tan scrap, because we'll simply use the existing black straps for the width measurement. I believe this diagram is sourced from a Trooper Master plan, so credit where it's due: Firstly, unscrew the Chicago screws attaching the black straps to the holster, and use the straps as a template to draw onto the natural leather piece. See pic below, ensure you also trace the hole that will be made for the Chicago screw. Length of the natural leather is approx 4 1/2" long, I just left it at that (we can trim as needed when fitting to the canvas belt): Cut out the leather strips. With the leather hole punch, cut out the holes for the Chicago screws. I found that the highest setting on my hole punch - 4.5mm, was just about right to fit the screws through, I just twisted them into the holes to make them that little bit bigger. Also, using the black strips, cut out the squares that will be added back to the holster. I made sure that the squares were large enough to go right to the top of the holster, to fill the whole corner. The line across the black strap is a pencil line, where I'll cut it for my little black squares (pic below. I apologise for the blurriness, I'm a crap photographer with a crappy phone, and don't notice the blur till I'm seeing them posted on here): Yikes! If we place the new tan straps back over the holster they don't go to the edge, and I want them to go to the edge. Nevermind, I'll just mark where I need new holes and punch them in (pic below): ...and here's the two holes I have (got this on both sides now). The exacto blade points to the NEW hole that I want (pic below)...we'll plug the old holes next. Now this bit is a little fiddly, but not that difficult. Using the rest of the black straps that is now scrap, cut some small pieces sufficient to plug the holes. Put some blue painters tape around the area of the hole that you want to fill - this is to help prevent glue going onto other parts of your holster. Kind of like how a surgeon covers around the area they cut into. Make the little pieces fit just right, or slightly large if possible, apply glue into the hole, and push the little pieces into the hole (pic below): ..and hole plugged: Now simply reassemble the holster. I put the natural tan leather straps at bottom, then the holster, then the little black squares on top (so the holster is basically sandwiched). Then reattach the Chicago screws, and you're done.... Done! Simples (kind of...) I'll post up some progress pics of sniper plate assembly tomorrow. Kris

I've gone through 4 tubes of e-6000, and counting, lol! Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0251 using Tapatalk

Mate I'm hearing you on the sniper plate. Same happened to me. I'm now doing the center, then inner side, then outer side in turn, with 48 hr cure time between each. I did a hot water bath treatment on the outer side to slightly twist it down to help with alignment. Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0251 using Tapatalk

Cheers Comrade! Am also closely following your build and wishing I had your patience and slower approach to things! Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0251 using Tapatalk

Hey thanks mate. Much appreciated. Got some more updates and pics to post up soon...on cover strips, sniper plate and about to start some belt fittings and snap plates. Sent from my HUAWEI G510-0251 using Tapatalk