cjdesign

Keep On Trooping!!

Yes, I'm using this version in my Shore trooper helmet. Anker is the best.

it should stay as "first" not 1st. correlates with the "F" in FISD.

I think we need to know how many colors we are dealing with? A t-shirt design should be solid in nature. 3-4 colors max.

Beautiful mood piece!! For a magazine or print this will work great.

Thanks Joseph. I could go one step further and add a mickey hat to one of the troopers or have the 4th trooper holding a mickey balloon to tie in the Orlando/Disney theme as others are using?

like the idea of mickey ears...

design retracted.

Heavy duty indeed. The suit is rock solid. Just as good as TM in terms of quality and fit in finish capped abs. The fact that it comes 90% trimmed is nice too.

Placement: Looked at many references of shoulder strap placements and determined that at least 5-6 ribs are visible on the front chest plate before the gap. I split the difference and mounted in between the 5-6th as seen below. Clamp: Use two clamps on each side. Fill the underside rib recessions with pieces of extra pvc to allow for better adhesion. Glue: Use a liberal amount of e6000. The e6000 needs to cure a very long time (48 hours +) or the strap will lift from the front. The air trapped inside the ribs can keep the glue from curing. Be patient. [/url]

I can concur with Shea... same height and weight and the am 2.0 fits me like a glove. During my build I did trim various areas to mimic the camera TKs. Although, this kit is not the most accurate when I'm trooping next to TM and AP armor and there have been claims of recast, earlier versions not being approved, etc. For the larger armor, budget price, and quick ship you can't go wrong with the AM 2.0.

adding a thin foam backing to the spandex, and stitching, can create the rib effect shown in the picture. similar to car upholstery detail i'm sure whom ever sewed this had access to state of the art machines in order sew in perfect parallel rows. Look at the stitch pattern. The stitching matches across all rows as if it was stitched all at once with multiple needles in unison. Im sure china can pull this off.

found this thread... my bad. http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/topic/38112-rogue-one-gaskets/

Anybody have any thoughts on the actual undergarment fabric used on the shoretrooper. stumbled upon this link. looks promising for the ribbed portion. ordered a swatch for $1.00 us dollar. i'll post pics compared to my tk armor. http://www.moodfabrics.com/deep-burlywood-cotton-corduroy-307790.html?utm_source=google_shopping&gclid=Cj0KEQiAzNfDBRD2xKrO4pSnnOkBEiQAbzzeQRKx9nfmCJpZmiIAgmW06_Btz29yqhK2GHwmNhbrN2caAnrI8P8HAQ

Hey Mo, unfortunately this is a DIY project. if you are in need of a pre-built fan system. there are various vendors that sell them through the ongoing sales thread here: http://www.whitearmor.net/forum/forum/16-ongoing-sales-project-orders/ Good luck!

Pressure fit. the bracket has some flex and has been delicately bent all around. Careful not to bend sharply or you can crease the metal. gentex x-liner.

Yes, Velcro.

Thanks Ron! Good luck on your armor... just keep reading.

One year ago today... I joined FISD and my life hasn't been the same. From noob to 501st member; what a wild ride. Thanks to all the attache members for volunteering your time and efforts to help make whitearmor.net a great community. Keep on trooping!

XTC-3d To Smooth 3d Parts: The 3D Parts purchased from Chris (sights, guards) have a grainy texture notorious with 3d printing. I tried painting multiple times to cover smooth with no luck. "XTC-3D" worked the best in smoothing out these 3d parts. XTC-3D is a viscus two part resin that is easy to work with. Once cured. I sanded until smooth.

Painting Technique: Here is a list of the paint used and steps taken to recreate original sterling finishes. This is what I had lying around so feel free to use what ever brand you have around. The main focus is the finishes. 1. Paint DDs plastic with Grey Primer and sand. Repeat if needed. 2. Apply Krylon Stainless Steel (used on all parts) or similar, base coat. Steel wool. Repeat if needed. 3. Light over spray of Satin Rust-oleum Expresso (dark brown) or similar. 1-2 extremely light coats. 24-36 inches away. (simulates rusted steel) 4. Apply Maskol strategically eg. edges, worn areas 5. Apply final coat per my original sterling parts kit: A: Eastwoods Black Wrinkle Finish paint for: Main Stock, mag housing, breach cap, outer front and rear sights. B: Rust-oleum Flat black for: mag, front sight, rear inner sight, trigger guard to simulate original sterling parts purchased at apex-guns parts C: Eastwoods Gloss Black for: stock and t-tracks. D: Rust-oleum Semi-gloss for: handle grip 6. Rub off maskol. to expose red/metallic (rusted steel) base coat. The Krylon Brass used on the scope to mimic wear and scratches.

No luck... took them off of a m40a2.

Stock: I've started working on weathering the stock. Note: This is an original stock sterling stock, cleaned, primed an painted with fresh coat of stainless steel. Humbrol Maskol: Once the brown/silver base coat dries. Lightly brush on Maskol to cover selected areas. Maskol is latex and dries fairly quickly, I had to stop and clear my brush of latex build-up several times. Working under a single light source allowed me to see where I had masked. Because Maskol Rubs off very easy. I will mask and paint each side separately.

Sorry Bryn, just getting back to finishing my build. see below for painting guidelines I used to create the texture I was looking for.